First larger scale :MB Pro

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cagedcbr

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So I've bought a usedMonster Beetle Pro, I've done the introduction on large scale forums. I've got some new parts coming. What's left? A build up (clean up) of my new to me Monster. I picked it up relatively cheap but probably average cost wise, $500CDN for a Pro with Hitec servos, FG pipe, all steel gears, Alloy rear bulkheads and some other stuff I can't think of. So first off was to beat on the truck right after I got it and see what I thought could use some attention. Like I said I am still waiting on parts but I will get some pics up in a little bit of what is done so far.

How I bought it, I know, I know, it's ugly. That is going to change.

IMG_0099.webp

Stay tuned, this won't be the greatest thing going as it is kind of budget minded, but it will be cool ;)
 
cagedcbr said:
So I've bought a usedMonster Beetle Pro, I've done the introduction on large scale forums. I've got some new parts coming. What's left? A build up (clean up) of my new to me Monster. I picked it up relatively cheap but probably average cost wise, $500CDN for a Pro with Hitec servos, FG pipe, all steel gears, Alloy rear bulkheads and some other stuff I can't think of. So first off was to beat on the truck right after I got it and see what I thought could use some attention. Like I said I am still waiting on parts but I will get some pics up in a little bit of what is done so far.

How I bought it, I know, I know, it's ugly. That is going to change.

IMG_0099.webp

Stay tuned, this won't be the greatest thing going as it is kind of budget minded, but it will be cool ;)
Click to expand...

Looking good Mike.

Main things to consider as BASIC:

1. Alloy engine mounts - plastic ones have been said to flex a little - knackers your gears.
2. then .... Metal gears - some stay with plastic without problem.
3. Brace your plastic servo tray or get a Carbon or Alloy one.
4. Shocks - your call - mainly play with the oils and sprins to get the balance you want. Main thing is cf. E-Maxx (or 5B Baja, keeping it Large Scale) the arms are quite short so there's less suspension travel than you might expect for a Large Scale.
5. ABSOLUTE MUST - Remote Kill Switch. As you'll have read, or already know, this is not the same as a failsafe. If there's no signal, no power, or you just want to, or NEED TO, the ignition is cut / can be remotely cut.

Al.
 
Nothing wrong with doing it on a budget mate - mine are virtually stock. Will look forward to the build pics :cool2:
 
Engine mounts, rear arms upper and lower, front and rear hubs (raised rear), rear tower, and some other goodies have been ordered so to speak ( I will explain later). I have an LST roller laying around that may have it's alloy shocks jacked but I can't seem to find a confirmed answer if they are well suited or not. Also have some Baja paddles and ribbed rbber for it with adapters (they will be home brewed. I've also already made an alloy servo tray and started mocking up some alloy to replace some plastic in the roll cage. Here is a quick pic of the motor after a cleaning and spraying and polishing, and a sneak peak of how the shell has been changing.

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Almost forgot, this really all started because the owner of my local shop offered me a RC Screws SS screw kit. I couldn't put all that pretty hardware on a nasty car.

This was to cover up the silly graphics that were on the body until I decide to get a new one but this one has tons of life (was just ugly).

DSC_0592.webp
 
Oh yeah I do have a kill switch that came with the truck, almost forgot about that. Good I remembered before I screw the motor on the chassis.

BTW, that has to be my biggest pet peeve so far. I can't get the flywheel cover off with the motor in place (sucks for cleaning).
 
cagedcbr said:
Oh yeah I do have a kill switch that came with the truck, almost forgot about that. Good I remembered before I screw the motor on the chassis.

BTW, that has to be my biggest pet peeve so far. I can't get the flywheel cover off with the motor in place (sucks for cleaning).
Click to expand...

It is an unfortunate design fault, the cover thing.
It does permit you to ensure you realign the gears on a regular basis I suppose!!

LST Shocks!
I've a 'hopped up LST2 Spec Raminator'. I had fitted MSR6 'Integy' (shivers .. !!) piggy-backs to it - look great but keep on leaking, then reverted to the anodised Losi ones - fantastic - not one leak!
Might be up to it, but there's a big difference between 6-7Kg and 12-15Kg (or 18Kg as per my FG MT) so I'm not sure.
Perhaps there's a way of fitting the Losi-5 T shocks - but that would be breaking the bank .....

Aside from occasional hiccups, I really like branded Losi products.

Al.
 
I've got the Losi shocks (blue alloy) that were the option for my Raminator. Couple of questions I have is are any of the Losi springs up to the task? I've got yellows and blacks (Losi springs). Secondly, what did you use for standoffs on the top mounts? Should I drill the LST mounts to 4mm, not sure other than machining some. As for the 5 t losi shocks, I'm dying to see a set because they look like the LST shocks and if the Losi 5t springs will fit the LST shocks I will use them 100%
 
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Blacks will be way too soft - mine are 30% screwed in as it is on my 7Kg Raminator (roll cage, etc.)
Yellows I doubt it also.

I do like these shocks, but it is horses for courses, and there are several alloy shocks on offer on the various Ebays - .co.uk and .de which are much better suited to the task.

As for the stand offs, I've no idea mate. I'm in Mexico for a few weeks, a wee distance away from UK .... SORRY!!

Al.
 
Couple more pics, these of my radio tray (homemade 3mm 6061). Also using the 3mm for an alloy bumper and a rear bulkhead/motor mount brace, I think the original brace is a little thin and weak.

DSC_0593.webp

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Another few updates I made were due to wear, new touring car end links with tensioning screws for the pivot balls. Also since the hole for the upper hinge pins (in the bulkheads) were out of round, I drilled them out to the appropriate size and installed delrin bushings out of the touring cars.

DSC_0596.webp

Gotta change the screws in the links to some included in the S.S. screw kit.

And finally for tonight something I'm sure most of you have seen. My very first chewed up spur gear LOL. Hard to see in the pic but there are several teeth completely missing, this was due to jumping off a hill about 10-15 feet long. Funny thing about the face of the hill, me and my buddy with his 5T did not leave one tire groove in the whole face of the hill. You could see where our trucks left the top of the hill and landed at the bottom

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I did a quick mock up this morning since I'm getting closer to finished, until the aluminum parts are here. Next step is to decide on the way I'm going to adapt the HPI wheels so I can also decide on a front brake set-up, I won't be doing much more than bashing so I think a cable set-up will do.

The rear wheel is sitting on a 2 inch Integy widener for the baja, the front is just sitting against the knuckle so I will sit out more than in the pictures.

DSC_0598.webp

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Now that I look at this in pictures I think it is evadent that I may be in for another project, YUP stretched chassis. I think it would look better if the front of the front tires lined up with the leading edge of the hood.
 
cagedcbr said:
Now that I look at this in pictures I think it is evadent that I may be in for another project, YUP stretched chassis. I think it would look better if the front of the front tires lined up with the leading edge of the hood.
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This may help you !!
The only problem is that the side braces don't work.
There's a thread called Monster Beetle XL here somewhere and he fitted longer front cage braces.

http://alu-tec.de/assets/s2dmain.html?http://alu-tec.de

Al.
 
Not sure about moving the C of G so far back.

In the aforementioned thread, he also uses Integy MSR6 shocks and seems to get them working.
I always had one leaking on the LST - perhaps I was bashing it too hard - and not just the one behind the exhaust. I had to ditch them.
Not sure also of the bottom mount - too weak for such a big car as the FG MB in my opinion.

Al.
 
did u air brush that ? if so thumbs up man
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Yes although it's not finished yet, it's a side job. Mostly motorcycle parts, helmets, the odd car hood or trunk ect... but recently got into painting other peoples RC stuff too.


The long chassis is just me being a picky bugger, I'm not making a change like that anytime soon. I did however just get in touch with Powerslide and requested shipping on some Wheel Wizards adapters. I don't have the energy to fiddle with adapter making (unless I have to)and it will make one less job for me, as well as allow me to directly fit brakes intended for the Monster. I was going to modify some Integy adapters for the Baja but that would mean I would either have to adapt HPI specific calipers to fit or use HPI discs with FG calipers, I don't want to have to buy a brake set and then have to go out and buy other parts to make them work.
 
Thank you, my buddy was kind of pissy when I put his Baja to shame in some straight line fun now he's really gonna be pissy when he sees how much better mine looks MUHAHAHAHA. Damn Baja owners, they don't know the bad A$$ery of the "FG"
 
Time for some important numbers

FG monster wheel and tire= 33.50oz.

HPI rear wheels = 16.30oz.

HPI front wheels= 10.50oz.

Should help with flight and most important to me, bearing life and not bending wheel shafts having the wheels spaced out farther with adapters.
 
cagedcbr said:
Time for some important numbers

FG monster wheel and tire= 33.50oz.

HPI rear wheels = 16.30oz.

HPI front wheels= 10.50oz.

Should help with flight and most important to me, bearing life and not bending wheel shafts having the wheels spaced out farther with adapters.
Click to expand...

Bloody hell mate that is some weight saving :w00t: The HPI wheels look good too!
 
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