Diff removal

[chitown joe]

the bolt depot, they have a large selection of stainless socket bolts

 

[Lan-Ed-Tul]

just to make sure you get right threads, take the tranny case with the threaded holes with you to run bolts into to make sure,

 

[Pollishman]

For sure Lan.

 

[Pollishman]

can i break in the motor on the bench without the rear end installed?

 

[Lan-Ed-Tul]

dunno, i never tried it. you really need truck running around tho so you can do the breakin right, myself i would get the diff back in and buttoned up so ya can run it around proper.

 

[Pollishman]

OK Lan, will do! I ended up getting Lucas racing semisynthetic 2 stroke oil and mixed it 25:1. I also got some stainless steel diff screws.

 

[Lan-Ed-Tul]

sounds good

 

[Pollishman]

Here's a few pics...
Does this look like the right plug? The guy at advance auto crossreferenced the other NGK number to this one.

 

[fatboybuggernuts]

Here's a few pics...
Does this look like the right plug? The guy at advance auto crossreferenced the other NGK number to this one.

This is also what i came up with when i was looking and cross referencing plugs the only problem i can see is it does not have an R in the part number which means its not a resistive plug and from what i gather from other threads i think it was killer rc who mentioned it the plug needs to be a resistive type to prevent electrical interference and radio glitching. It may be ok to use but it might be worth finding out before you use it. I was thinking of getting one as they are quite readily availeable to me bein a motorcycle plug.

 

[fatboybuggernuts]

Just had a look and there is a CR7HSA availeable so if you can you wanna try and get the one with the R if poss.

 

[chitown joe]

i believe the ngk no# 3066 cmr7h/3066 is the correct one

 

[chitown joe]

not sure how the advance guy crossed the cmr7h to that but that is incorrect,
all you have to do is go to NGK website an you will get the correct references

 

[fatboybuggernuts]

Yeah the CMR7H is the plug that everyone uses but the CR7HSA or the C7HSA is what comes out as an alternative weather it works or not im not sure!

 

[Pollishman]

Found the 3066 part number on the Autozone website this morning, thanks.

 

[Pollishman]

I wish some of you guys lived around here, I don't have anyone to run with yet. One of my buddies just got into Electrics and he's interested in the gas truck, plus I have another friend who's been into Electrics for years who might bite the bullet as well.

 

[chitown joe]

Just had a look and there is a CR7HSA availeable so if you can you wanna try and get the one with the R if poss.

i believe thats a lazer or iridian plug type it's taller on the porcelan side and i think deeper also, still 10mm threads

 

[Pollishman]

The one i bought isn't deeper, just taller. I'm not gonna try it though. I definitely don't want interference!

 

[Johnston.jer]

I wish some of you guys lived around here, I don't have anyone to run with yet. One of my buddies just got into Electrics and he's interested in the gas truck, plus I have another friend who's been into Electrics for years who might bite the bullet as well.

I am heading down your way on Friday polish! I will be in Naples all next week. Trying to figure out how to get my baja in the car with all of our luggage.

 

[Pollishman]

What day will you be in the area? I have 1 spot for bashing here in St. Cloud. I will hopefully be getting my parts in today, and starting break-in procedures tomorrow.

 

[Pollishman]

OK, just got the diff back together. I used Factory Team 30k diff fluid(Lucas Oil) in the diff. I treated the diff with stainless screws and red locktite. For the bearings and ring gear I used a genorous amount of Lucas Oil Red "N" Tacky #2 EP Grease. To keep the grease inside the case I used a bead of Seal-All on the seam before reassembling the case. Now comes the task of reassembling the entire rear end of the truck. Overall, I am glad that I checked the diff. The amount of oil in the diff was lower than I would prefer, the diff grease smelled like what's used in a Chinese SKS, and the bearings were dry. All of those issues are now corrected. Thank you all for your superb advise, I really appreciate your help!