Diff removal

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The pics of the inside of the diff is after I filled it. The new fluid is just above the pins. The picture of the inside of the case is after I cleaned out the Chinese SKS grease.
 
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Got it fired up today. Ran the first 20 minute heat cycle and it ran pretty good. I had trouble at first but found help unflooding it by searching the forums. 1 question, should I wait until after the second heat before leaning up the low speed screw? I started it at 1 1/4 turns and gradually leaned it out to 1 turn, so now it will idle for 5-8 seconds before stalling. I wasn't letting it idle long, kind of putted around the yard while varying the rpms. No full throttle though. I like the sound of the pipe.
 
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I've recently read things on this forum that KM carbs are not as good as Walbro - don't know.
1.0 on a Walbro should be 'ideal minimum' and if anything a little lean.
All carbs - individually - vary slightly, so it may be possible.
Whenever you 'go to zero' be very gentle and very careful to avoid damaging the needle.
I'm not saying that you have, but I am surprised that 1.0 is fine - not knowing KM carbs that is.

Al.
 
when i readjusted mine after the iso and v stack upgrades i had to actually add a lil more fuel due to more airflow with the upgraded stuff. and on HS needle too. just a lil on both from where they were to start with. but the first time i adjusted needles on LS i got it to the idle that sounded bout right to me, then backed it out 1/32 to 1/16 on HS, again after several runs up the road listening to engine, got it where it sounded good with no drag or bog to engine, then backed needle out from that 1/32 to 1/16 more. that got me a pretty darn nice range from startoff to high end with no stall, drag, or bogging on engine, just crisp snappy throttle.
 
The air filter oil that I used might be a little more restrictive to airflow than normal as its meant for motorcycles. But it offers more protection in my eyes so its OK. But that restriction could definitely effect the adjustments.
 
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Lan-Ed-Tul said:
when i readjusted mine after the iso and v stack upgrades i had to actually add a lil more fuel due to more airflow with the upgraded stuff. and on HS needle too. just a lil on both from where they were to start with. but the first time i adjusted needles on LS i got it to the idle that sounded bout right to me, then backed it out 1/32 to 1/16 on HS, again after several runs up the road listening to engine, got it where it sounded good with no drag or bog to engine, then backed needle out from that 1/32 to 1/16 more. that got me a pretty darn nice range from startoff to high end with no stall, drag, or bogging on engine, just crisp snappy throttle.
Click to expand...

So all of this closing and backing out .... what are your needles set at?
What's the carb?
Remind us please, what's the motor as well?

Al.
 
Second heat is done. I'm pretty happy with how its running so far. Here's a pic after some flat ground running. My nephew brought out his Stampede, and I only ran it over a few times. I'm so proud of myself :)
 

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atom3624 said:
So all of this closing and backing out .... what are your needles set at?
What's the carb?
Remind us please, what's the motor as well?

Al.
Click to expand...

motor is a 29cc that it come with, carb too, never changed the carb, where needles are at, lost count, but i started with the standard start off for LS and HS, and adjusted from there.

basically, in easier terms to understand, i just adjusted needles to a good smooth running engine, and added just a hair more OUT turn on needles once ideal spots were found. somewhere round 1/32 to 1/16 more, all it does is add a tiddy bit more fuel/oil mainly for lube reasons on engine

it took me a lil bit to get HS adjusted, as i did not do the lift rear and letter rip method, thats one way, i don't like to do, or the run it and stop adjust method, which i prefer.
 
Lan-Ed-Tul said:
motor is a 29cc that it come with, carb too, never changed the carb, where needles are at, lost count, but i started with the standard start off for LS and HS, and adjusted from there.

basically, in easier terms to understand, i just adjusted needles to a good smooth running engine, and added just a hair more OUT turn on needles once ideal spots were found. somewhere round 1/32 to 1/16 more, all it does is add a tiddy bit more fuel/oil mainly for lube reasons on engine

it took me a lil bit to get HS adjusted, as i did not do the lift rear and letter rip method, thats one way, i don't like to do, or the run it and stop adjust method, which i prefer.
Click to expand...

Understood.
You've never closed to '0' for reference - not a bad idea as you do risk the potential for damage if heavy handed.
Basically, if it's running well, you're laughing!!

Al.
 
yah mine just happened to be pretty darn close set from factory believe it or not so i didnt have to muddle round too much at all with needles till after i added the extended metal iso block and shredstack, that changed the running ALOT, first i had to get it to stay running on LS, then get it tonot bog out and die when i hit gas. all this was due to more air coming in with the new addons, so a lil more fuel on both needles, a lil messing final adjusts, and its running pretty good. i do think i may need to retweak the high end needle, but just a tad, its darn close tho.
 
be anything form the engine starving for fuel, and dieing, sometimes indicated by engine rpms increasing a lil bit at idle while turning the needle to lean.

i don't know the specific rpm's to set it for a idle, gonna be just a tad faster than a good weedeater rpm is at idle. if too rich will bog down, and sometimes when throttle is hit too much fuel floods it out and it dies too,

just start off with the reccommended LS and HS settings the guys mentioned in the tuning threads. see what its doing set like that, then go from there, its a good starting point.

i just got lucky that mine actually was set almost dead on from factory, prolly a very rare occurance indeed. the only major messing with it was after the intake upgrades.

main thing is getting that LS set, then mess with HS. i found on mine after the upgrades, once i was happy with the LS adjustment, and i hit throttle it died immediately, so then i moved on to the HS, made a adjustment, fired it up hit the throttle, and was better, another adjustment, etc.. tilli got it to do as was supposed to. like some other guys do, they lift the rear off ground and nail the throttle adjusting the needle for max rpms, i didnt do it that way tho, i made runs up and down road, took me longer this way, but i could better judge the performance of the truck, as it was under load, rather than free spinning.
 
Pollishman said:
Then it dies. I would say within 10 seconds it dies.
Click to expand...

Is the plug wet?

You've seen the posts about 'reset to factory', which is typically 1 1/4 LOW, 1 3/8 HIGH. This will vary slightly from carb to carb, and engine to engine, and also depend on wear.
BE CAREFUL screwing in as you can damage the needle/bore - just until the 'stops' and that's your 'zero point', then unscrew out.

I'm expecting you to say the plug is dark / wet and this would indicate it's set a bit rich - doesn't take much.

Al.
 
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Haven't pulled the plug since break-in. The motor runs and revs fine, I just think the LS is a little fat. I'm about 1 turn out on the LS and I was afraid to go leaner but at 1 1/4 turns it would stall even quicker at idle.
 
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