Braking News !!!!

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atom3624

atom3624

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Cold, wet, windy St Helens, U.K.
Terrible pun, and intended!!

I've never been happy with the power of the cable brakes. Not easy when the other truck I run is an LST2 that can lock up all 4 and somersault without trying!!

At best I could lock the rears, with weight transfer of course - most weight going to the front.
I've 'tuning' cable brakes with good pads on.
I've set them very lightly binding at zero - not enough to consider 'drag brake' but same principle - basically to permit more scope for more braking power.
I used a Savox 1256TG on the throttle / rear brakes, and another 1256TG separately on the fronts.

A couple of weeks ago I located a MEGA Savox called the 1230, with 500 oz in / 32Kg cm at 6.0V; 60 degrees in 0.16 seconds against the 277 / 20 and 0.15 of the 1256TG - pretty amazing specs.

I installed it last night and .... an improvement, but not ground breaking (avoided that one!!).

I reconsidered going the hydro route and contacted Mike1970 who confirmed Mecatechs are 'the best' but I shouldn't really need to go there.
I perused the internet - easier than reading the manual - and .... downloaded the manual for my Spekky!!

I found what I was looking for. I'd noticed that the throttle was perhaps 1.5x the travel of the brakes, and couldn't figure out why.

It's called 'Grip Lever A - Brake Trim' on my Spekky 3.0.
It was set at 65% !!!! That's of a possible 125% !!

Of course I set it at 125% 'to see', but reduced to 100% as I couldn't feel any noticeable gain.

Hopefully HAPPYDAYS.COM !!!! :D:):rolleyes::):D

Al.
 
i never really liked the cable brakes, i always had problems. the biggest problem i has was keeping them perfectly balanced, i would always end up with more braking on one wheel, and as a result i would end up locking that wheel and spinning the car around. i could bring it in and readjust it, but 15 laps later it would start doing it again.

i made the leap to hydros. i bought a 2 sets of older lauterbacher twin piston brakes, they work great. nice even braking, easy to modulate, and very little upkeep. the mecatechs are very nice, the expert version works very well at an affordable price. if you go that route you wont regret it.
 
I hear what you're saying.

My experience has been the opposite.
I had hydros that were an absolute pain in the bum - leak here, bubble there, grub knackered there, fluid everywhere ...

Spent all my time bleeding them in the hope they worked well, which they did when had no bubbles, so reverted to trusty, more simple cables.

I'm prepared to hop to Mecatech if needs be, but prefer to see how I get on with this mega servo and the adjusted brake throw.
Al.
 
im using cables on both cars the front on the bug and rears on the on road with hydro layshaft on the bug and hydros up front on the on road both cars stop great on the bug ive fitted a bigger disc to the fg cables from the larger hydro disc's you just need to make a spacer and fit between the hub and caliper this maybe a good way to improve your braking without the cost of hydros



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Yeah, I remembered I had other discs in the accumulated 'wealth' of FG-type parts and found 2 'ventilated' larger diameter discs, and 2 fibre discs - same larger diameter.
I was wondering if I'd fitted the brakes incorrectly, and realised as you mentioned - referencing Hobbythek as well - that I hadn't and that I need a spacer.

I think I'm set now, but this servo's a BEAST!!
Thanks anyway.
Al.
 
Been mainly dry all day, amazingly.
Re-assembled everything yesterday, so thought I'd take the opportunity to try it out.
Stationary, with full brakes, I can move it without REALLY heaving - good start!!

Fired up without problem, first pull after 3 weeks - good start!

Starting blasting up and down - this is the first time since I:
Cleaned it up.
Refilled the shocks.
Replaced the clutch shoes.
Reset the carb - properly.
Reset the brakes.
Replaced the front 1256TG servo with a 1230 - 80% more torque!

Tune was probably out, but it went acceptably well - main test was the brakes basically.
At idle it was rock steady, but a bit smokey - possibly a bit rich - not a bad thing.
From full pelt, the rears locked easily, but the fronts still rolled.
I re-checked the front power - perfect, so must be the weight!

All's well, but after 8-10 tests there was a lowered voltage warning from the Superbee for a couple of seconds. Recovered, but I have my doubts on the battery.
I'm running 2 Digi4 Rhinos for the steering, 1 1230 for the fronts, 1 1256 for the throttle/rears.

Something to keep an eye on - may have to consider Mike's recommendation on the battery front.
Al.
Al.
 
it may be weight transfer making the rears lock up mate id try the bigger disc's just need to make yourself some spacers and job done it will stop much better then or its hydros
 
Al stop arsing around:D Barrys suggestion that you use bigger discs is

good,you should already have those with the KPD discs

but also look at your weak brake train;) is your thin wire operating arms

twisting some...... have you put a slightly bigger flat on them......you should not

need a super monster power servo to work them:lol::lol:

to be sure scrap the wire arms and get a couple of these:cool:

0034.webp

K....
 
I have them on the rears, which may explain a few things!!
I had a problem with the grubs on the fronts so made do.
YES, the wires do twist a little.
I have the larger discs from the KPD's as you mention.
I also have same-diameter fibre discs - new.
Al.
 
maybe worth a day swaping them over fit the front calipers on the rear and rears on the front and see if thats better if you cant remove the poxy little grubs maybe why the rears are locking up so well
 
I've just 'gently persuaded' the resistant grub out - the other was relatively easy.
All is ready for Keith Plan B - the alloy arms.
TBH - don't want to fath around with all 4 cables if I can help it!
Thanks for the ideas and advice guys.
I'll keep the larger discs an option as well - good idea.
Al.
 
Trebor said:
Al stop arsing around:D Barrys suggestion that you use bigger discs is

good,you should already have those with the KPD discs

but also look at your weak brake train;) is your thin wire operating arms

twisting some...... have you put a slightly bigger flat on them......you should not

need a super monster power servo to work them:lol::lol:

to be sure scrap the wire arms and get a couple of these:cool:

0034.webp

K....
Click to expand...

Thanks Keith.
Found similar on Hobbythek - no little rod with grub through as the Krikke, but at least they're alloy coloured.
Then I found the Krikke - for 10 Euros!
Got a couple of other goodies while I was at it.
I'll have to get the Dremel, Emery and Brasso on the arms - might grow on me that blue anodising.
Couldn't get into Alu-tec - they make the same with colour options.
Al.
 
I installed new mecatech front and rear hydros on my new 08 sportline before i even ran it.Best money i ever spent,granted it was a few evenings of bleeding to get all the air out but the brakes are great.An added feature on my radio is 3 setting function of abs which is great on less then stellar track surfaces.This stops the constant setting on the radio,i just use the abs till track is better and then turn it off and rely on the normal braking.These brakes are a a year and a half old and no leaks or problems at all.I would highly recommend them to anyone if the money is available.:):)
 
It's one of those 'I can make the money available if I REALLY have to' but I'd like to keep the funds available for other things, tbh.
I've got the picture regarding Mecatechs now!!
I reckon I've got the brakes sorted now.
I need to see how the battery holds up.
I've been told the UberRC battery has good specs - it certainly makes good reading.
Mike1970 has put me onto his personal battery favourite - many thanks Mike - and what he does to make it reliable for the hammering of racing - so it's not exactly 'off the shelf' - minor modifications.

I've gone ahead with the alloy bars as suggested by Keith - particularly as they were on sale!! LOL!
I like the idea of a spacer and inserting the larger discs - already got 4 of them, and a pair of fibre ones.
Al.
 
Glad your sorted AL:rolleyes:

as you know Al funds should never be a problem,easy come easy go eh

hope you asked Ron for a postage discount for the arms, mine to where

just under 10euro with 3 euro postage ......same thing at ross mods £24

K....
 
Last edited:
Didn't know of the 'postage discount', but never mind.
Grub screw problem?
Erm ... how do I put this - same thread diameter, but I'd fitted a different grub - needed another key!! Hum!
My fault for having 1000's of spare bits'n'bobs!!
Al.
 
Krikke levers came. Installed. Brakes reset.
Took opportunity to reset front suspension - too much movement in the front arms and you can't 'grub lock' these alloy MT arms onto the hinge pins.

I don't play with castor at all, so I decided to use stainless spacer B6 washers - much better - tight but full vertical arm movement.
Replaced the nylon/teflon bushes as well - weren't bad.
The 'A+B' mounts are the type that permit the oval inserts, so I've changed from central to negative camber to try and get better cornering and counter the inherent grip roll - too easy on this heavy truck.
Front and rear suspension is smoothest and tightest ever!!

Can't wait for a couple of dry days!!!!!!!
Al.
 
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