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DougStar

DougStar

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Ok so I want to set the camber on the mcd👍🏻 from the factory it came with round about 1 degree negative camber all round🤔 i want to set it to 0. Is this right 🤷‍♂️ or should I have the rear at 0 and leve the front?
Ok so I used Google and this is all aimed at 1/1 cars with real wheels
But it makes sense and maybe I should just leave the settings as the areScreenshot_20211016-112533_Samsung Internet.webpScreenshot_20211016-112621_Samsung Internet.webp
 
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It will probably handle like crap with 0deg camber. For on road? You're probably better off playing with the front caster to help the car through the corners and straight line stability. What is the toe set at?

The only way to get away with 0 camber is if the upper arms have different mounting height locations in relation to the upper ball joint on the knuckle. Then, you can create neg camber in a turn/body roll (side load) scenario.
 
Too much caster will scrub speed in straight line driving, and wear tires like crazy. Theres a fine line between handling and killing performance and eating through tires. Especially with medium and soft compound tires. Id start minimal with the camber and caster. 0* rear and 1-2* front camber and not mess with caster atm. It's a trial and error thing, and varies with how the track is set up. Same as suspension set up. Change one thing at a time, record what you changed and try it.
 
Too much toe? Toe is the only thing that will really scrub speed unless your camber is so much so that you're rolling over your tires onto the wheel. Caster is the relation of the upper ball joint to the lower ball joint (front of car to rear of car relation, upper needs to be rearward of the lower) and will actually increase straight line stability and improve cornering up to a certain point.
Too much toe will scrub straight line speed but positive toe is needed for handling (or you could go negative toe if you want but will scrub more speed, however, it will allow the front tires to rotate closer to the same speed in a turn). Zero toe will also make the car squirrely. Rear toe needs to be neg.
 
The.okie said:
Too much toe? Toe is the only thing that will really scrub speed unless your camber is so much so that you're rolling over your tires onto the wheel. Caster is the relation of the upper ball joint to the lower ball joint (front of car to rear of car relation, upper needs to be rearward of the lower) and will actually increase straight line stability and improve cornering up to a certain point.
Too much toe will scrub straight line speed but positive toe is needed for handling (or you could go negative toe if you want but will scrub more speed, however, it will allow the front tires to rotate closer to the same speed in a turn). Zero toe will also make the car squirrely. Rear toe needs to be neg.
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Yes I meant too much toe will scrub speed and wear tires like crazy. Well really too much caster will as well, your essentially driving your tires into the ground to help gain traction in turns, dirt it doesn't seem to matter too much if you get a little greedy, on road is a different story altogether.
 
Being it's pretty easy to adjust I say play with it at the track. You can't know what's right until ya try everything. Warning tho, your about to go down a serious rabbit hole trying to figure out the suspension setup. Everything is so subtle it's hard to figure out what's going on.
 
I would place money on the fact that, if caster were to, by chance, scrub speed by any amount, it would not be noticeable because the measurement would have to be so extreme. Getting the correct caster will have a far greater affect on corner speed and stability which will make you faster around the track.

And yes, one adjustment at a time is a good suggestion.
 
Don't want to adjust the caster🤔 it came with a 3 degree angle from the factory 🤔👉🏻 it can go 0 to 420211016_133827.webp
The bushings 👇🏻 top is 0 then 1,2 and no3 used
20211016_133810.webp
As for rear toe is 2 degrees don't want to change that🤔👍🏻 what I'm after is even tire wear and still maintain reasonable handling
Don't want to adjust the caster🤔 it came with a 3 degree angle from the factory 🤔👉🏻 it can go 0 to 420211016_133827.webp
The bushings 👇🏻 top is 0 then 1,2 and no3 used
20211016_133810.webp
As for rear toe is 2 degrees don't want to change that🤔👍🏻 what I'm after is even tire wear and still maintain reasonable handl
 
The.okie said:
I would place money on the fact that, if caster were to, by chance, scrub speed by any amount, it would not be noticeable because the measurement would have to be so extreme. Getting the correct caster will have a far greater affect on corner speed and stability which will make you faster around the track.

And yes, one adjustment at a time is a good suggestion.
Click to expand...
What's your version of extreme? It doesn't have to be too far out to scrub speed. Go play with it off throttle and turn a little bit, doesn't matter if it's rc or real vehicle they slow down fast. Hell even going 4* negative will scrub speed in turns and start screwing with straight line stability. Too much positive makes it harder to steer and still scrubs speed in turns.
 
DougStar said:
Don't want to adjust the caster🤔 it came with a 3 degree angle from the factory 🤔👉🏻 it can go 0 to 4View attachment 78618
The bushings 👇🏻 top is 0 then 1,2 and no3 used
View attachment 78619
As for rear toe is 2 degrees don't want to change that🤔👍🏻 what I'm after is even tire wear and still maintain reasonable handling
Don't want to adjust the caster🤔 it came with a 3 degree angle from the factory 🤔👉🏻 it can go 0 to 4View attachment 78618
The bushings 👇🏻 top is 0 then 1,2 and no3 used
View attachment 78619
As for rear toe is 2 degrees don't want to change that🤔👍🏻 what I'm after is even tire wear and still maintain reasonable handl
Click to expand...
How about some pictures of your tires to see the wear? Kinda hard to make suggestions when you can't see the tires
 
At one of these two locations. If you can adjust the height of that arm you can change your camber based upon the suspension movement and can use less during straight lines.

On the knuckle picture, I'm only talking about moving where the upper arm mounts and not the whole knuckle/change ride height.
 

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The upper arm... shorter (outer hole) will cause more change in camber (neg as the knuckle goes up/arm shortens) when the car rolls and long will be less. Shorter will react faster too. You can use that in your static tuning. If you plan on racing there will be a lot of trial and error in your setup, but you'll figure out what works best. Just know the concepts of each adjustment if you don't already.
 
The.okie said:
The upper arm... shorter (outer hole) will cause more change in camber (neg as the knuckle goes up/arm shortens) when the car rolls and long will be less. Shorter will react faster too. You can use that in your static tuning. If you plan on racing there will be a lot of trial and error in your setup, but you'll figure out what works best. Just know the concepts of each adjustment if you don't already.
Click to expand...
Yeah I got it 👍 thanks for the input
 
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