Walbro Carbs?

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corvette1941

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I have a 1988 Raco Jackrabbit. I need to replace my carb on my Zenogh G2D motor. Does anyone know what carb could replace it.
 
I think the G2d came stock with the Walbro 167 carb ( Walbro WA-167 ). I think the new series of carbs will work with it. The older G2d's were 2hp motors where the new G230's are 2.5hp. The switch by Goped to the G23LH changed availability for your motor and discontinued it. Soon after Goped changed over to the more cost effective CY and the rest is history.:(

Here are some specs pulled for it:

Displacement: 22.5cc
Bore: 32mm
Stroke: 28mm
Piston Rings: 2
Compression: 8.4:1
Transfer Ports: 2
Reed: No
Carburetor: Walbro WA-167
Stock Carb Settings: 1/4 turn out both jets
Oil Mixture: 25:1
Horsepower: 2.0
Net Power: 1.2
Rotation (output side): counter-clockwise
Clutch Diameter: n/a
Ignition System: magneto with external rectifier/module
Idle RPM: 2750-3100
Max RPM: 18000
EPA Compliant: no
C.A.R.B. Compliant: no
Fuel Type: Supreme unleaded; 92 octane or higher

Zenoah_G2D.webp
 
Bigger the Better said:
I think the G2d came stock with the Walbro 167 carb ( Walbro WA-167 ). I think the new series of carbs will work with it. The older G2d's were 2hp motors where the new G230's are 2.5hp. The switch by Goped to the G23LH changed availability for your motor and discontinued it. Soon after Goped changed over to the more cost effective CY and the rest is history.:(

Here are some specs pulled for it:

Displacement: 22.5cc
Bore: 32mm
Stroke: 28mm
Piston Rings: 2
Compression: 8.4:1
Transfer Ports: 2
Reed: No
Carburetor: Walbro WA-167
Stock Carb Settings: 1/4 turn out both jets
Oil Mixture: 25:1
Horsepower: 2.0
Net Power: 1.2
Rotation (output side): counter-clockwise
Clutch Diameter: n/a
Ignition System: magneto with external rectifier/module
Idle RPM: 2750-3100
Max RPM: 18000
EPA Compliant: no
C.A.R.B. Compliant: no
Fuel Type: Supreme unleaded; 92 octane or higher

Zenoah_G2D.webp
Click to expand...

Trip said:
Could you post a pic of the carb that's on it? Or at least tell us what the numbers are?

Trip..
Click to expand...

Here are some pics of the carb. Only letters found are WY no numbers.
 

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WOW, I've never seen a rotary carb that big! What is the distance between the flange bolts? You may be able to use a butterfly style carb, I don't know..
 
You can get kits for those carbs still if you want to rebuild it,you will need a primer bulb also,take it completely apart and soak it in laquer thinner for a day or two to disolve the varnish/old gas REMOVE ALL RUBBER PARTS BEFORE DOING THIS,they will swell from the thinner,those carbs are still used on some lawn and garden equipment,Shindaiwa I believe has a few on weedeaters up to 26cc.They can be a pain to tune sometimes,very finicy.
As Trip mentioned if you can give the center to center distance of the mounting screws,most are 31mm and also the throttle bore size on the motor side of the carb I can check the books at work and give you a close crossover carb.
Just for example the wt668 and wt817 carbs both have 16mm throttle bores,try to stick with a carb with the same bore.
One thing to point out since the motor has been sitting unused for a long time,more than 5 years I suspect,you should replace the crank seals as they are known to dry out from not in use and could cause air leaks,and siezure.
 
Jimmyb said:
You can get kits for those carbs still if you want to rebuild it,you will need a primer bulb also,take it completely apart and soak it in laquer thinner for a day or two to disolve the varnish/old gas REMOVE ALL RUBBER PARTS BEFORE DOING THIS,they will swell from the thinner,those carbs are still used on some lawn and garden equipment,Shindaiwa I believe has a few on weedeaters up to 26cc.They can be a pain to tune sometimes,very finicy.
As Trip mentioned if you can give the center to center distance of the mounting screws,most are 31mm and also the throttle bore size on the motor side of the carb I can check the books at work and give you a close crossover carb.
Just for example the wt668 and wt817 carbs both have 16mm throttle bores,try to stick with a carb with the same bore.
One thing to point out since the motor has been sitting unused for a long time,more than 5 years I suspect,you should replace the crank seals as they are known to dry out from not in use and could cause air leaks,and siezure.
Click to expand...

Hell of a first post!! Very informative!! Welcome aboard Jimmy..
 
Trip said:
Hell of a first post!! Very informative!! Welcome aboard Jimmy..
Click to expand...

Agree, nice information on the cleaning. Welcome to the forum.:cool2:

The wt-167 must of been updated to the wt-167-1? I see you may still be able to buy a wt-167-1 but, I think I would buy a new motor 1st because its been discontinued by walbro all together and not too cheap.
wt-167-1 click here
Walbro 167-1 pdf
The plastic shell is definitely dated.

I also see there might be a rebuild kit for it? Rebuild kit here
 
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Trip said:
WOW, I've never seen a rotary carb that big! What is the distance between the flange bolts? You may be able to use a butterfly style carb, I don't know..
Click to expand...

The distance is 31mm, air intake is 14.2875mm, motor side is 11.1125mm. Thank you all for the information. How hard is it to change the seals in the motor? Norm
 
Trip said:
Hell of a first post!! Very informative!! Welcome aboard Jimmy..
Click to expand...

Thanks you Trip and Bigger the Better,It is a pleasure to be here.:)
It looks like this motor came with a few different carb options.A WA-167,WA-125-1 and looks like you have a WY-?,the WY is still available in several different bores,a WY-18 seems to be the closest to the one you now have,it is listed for 20-22cc motors,but is fairly pricey.Looks like the mounting screw holes are a standard size for these small carbs,all seem to be 31mm.The specs posted by Bigger the Better lists a WA-167 carb which is basically the same carb coming now on the CY(23-26) motor and some Zenoah(G230-G270) motors now,these have a choke plate built in as the 817 does not,usually uses a air filter mounted flap simlair to the WY,these have a bigger carb bore which will give you slightly more top end but you might lose some bottom end power.Might be the easiest way to go.
DDM lists them.
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.4409/.f

If you decide to rebuild the old carb you can use a K10-WY kit which is a complete carb kit with welsh plugs,fuel needle and gaskets or a D10-WY kit which is just the gaskets,but as noted the plastic carbs give a little trouble.
The complete kit runs around $15+ the bulb(maybe $4) while the new carb above is $37.
One thing,you can try a carb from a CY or a Zenoah if you have one or borrow from a friend,it should work for testing.

Norm for replacing the crank seals if you can have a leak down test done on the motor it will tell you if it is required,if you have not heard of or seen this done before,what you do is cover/seal the exhaust-intake ports with a plate and with a adapter via the spark plug hole pressurize the motor to 6-10 psi,if it drops quickly you have a leak,if it holds all is good,use a water/soap mix to locate the leak.If the seals have to be replaced you have 2 ways to go about this,take the motor completely apart and push the seals out from the inside or you can try to pry-pull the seals out from the outside but you must be very carefull not to damage the crankshaft and cases,I have even threaded small screws into the seal face and pulled them out this way.Seals are very cheap I just did both a CY26 and my Zenoah for under $10 for the 2 sets.
I prefer to use the lacquer thinner over the automotive carb cleaner because the automotive one has a rancid smell that will stick to you for days,the lacquer thinner takes a litte longer but works just as well I find..

James...
 
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Jimmyb said:
Thanks you Trip and Bigger the Better,It is a pleasure to be here.:)
It looks like this motor came with a few different carb options.A WA-167,WA-125-1 and looks like you have a WY-?,the WY is still available in several different bores,a WY-18 seems to be the closest to the one you now have,it is listed for 20-22cc motors,but is fairly pricey.Looks like the mounting screw holes are a standard size for these small carbs,all seem to be 31mm.The specs posted by Bigger the Better lists a WA-167 carb which is basically the same carb coming now on the CY(23-26) motor and some Zenoah(G230-G270) motors now,these have a choke plate built in as the 817 does not,usually uses a air filter mounted flap simlair to the WY,these have a bigger carb bore which will give you slightly more top end but you might lose some bottom end power.Might be the easiest way to go.
DDM lists them.
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.4409/.f

If you decide to rebuild the old carb you can use a K10-WY kit which is a complete carb kit with welsh plugs,fuel needle and gaskets or a D10-WY kit which is just the gaskets,but as noted the plastic carbs give a little trouble.
The complete kit runs around $15+ the bulb(maybe $4) while the new carb above is $37.
One thing,you can try a carb from a CY or a Zenoah if you have one or borrow from a friend,it should work for testing.

Norm for replacing the crank seals if you can have a leak down test done on the motor it will tell you if it is required,if you have not heard of or seen this done before,what you do is cover/seal the exhaust-intake ports with a plate and with a adapter via the spark plug hole pressurize the motor to 6-10 psi,if it drops quickly you have a leak,if it holds all is good,use a water/soap mix to locate the leak.If the seals have to be replaced you have 2 ways to go about this,take the motor completely apart and push the seals out from the inside or you can try to pry-pull the seals out from the outside but you must be very carefull not to damage the crankshaft and cases,I have even threaded small screws into the seal face and pulled them out this way.Seals are very cheap I just did both a CY26 and my Zenoah for under $10 for the 2 sets.
I prefer to use the lacquer thinner over the automotive carb cleaner because the automotive one has a rancid smell that will stick to you for days,the lacquer thinner takes a litte longer but works just as well I find..

James...
Click to expand...

Wow James thanks, I'm amazed of all the info I received here.
 
Jimmyb said:
You can get kits for those carbs still if you want to rebuild it,you will need a primer bulb also,take it completely apart and soak it in laquer thinner for a day or two to disolve the varnish/old gas REMOVE ALL RUBBER PARTS BEFORE DOING THIS,they will swell from the thinner,those carbs are still used on some lawn and garden equipment,Shindaiwa I believe has a few on weedeaters up to 26cc.They can be a pain to tune sometimes,very finicy.
As Trip mentioned if you can give the center to center distance of the mounting screws,most are 31mm and also the throttle bore size on the motor side of the carb I can check the books at work and give you a close crossover carb.
Just for example the wt668 and wt817 carbs both have 16mm throttle bores,try to stick with a carb with the same bore.
One thing to point out since the motor has been sitting unused for a long time,more than 5 years I suspect,you should replace the crank seals as they are known to dry out from not in use and could cause air leaks,and siezure.
Click to expand...

If you wouldn't mind James could you take a look at this post on this forum concerning a carb someone is selling.

https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=4861

I'd like to know if you think this carb will work for me for my Jackrabbit. Thank You so much, Norm
 
corvette1941 said:
If you wouldn't mind James could you take a look at this post on this forum concerning a carb someone is selling.

https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=4861

I'd like to know if you think this carb will work for me for my Jackrabbit. Thank You so much, Norm
Click to expand...

Hi Norm,Yes that 668 carb will work,carb bore is 15.88mm though up from the 11.1125mm and it is a butterfly style valve instead of rotary,will not make any difference just have to change throttle linkage,the 668 is basically the same model as the 167 in the spec listed above.
Might want to check these links out..a few different options
For the 668 carb
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.4409/.f
for a carb similair to the one you have now,a WY-18
http://www.aubergebressane.com/search.aspx?query=wy-18
another carb that may work and is said to give a little better low end throttle response with a built in accelerator pump is the 813,same dimensions as the 668 but does not have a choke valve built in
http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1it.A/id.4103/.f
I believe you would get a little more power with the 668/813 at top end,would be like putting a performance carb on a car.
I really like that motor,4 bolt cylinder and looks like 2 piston rings,should be a tough little motor..

James
 
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