J’s dirty 30

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Dirty30J

Dirty30J

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I received my 30 degree north truck in an insanely fast amount of time from the UK. I ordered it on a Monday and got it Thursday. Here’s my build up of it. Leave tips and comments as you see fit. It’s literally my first fifth scale rc.
Packaged decently.
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I put the tires on first, and started with the servos and other electronics. IMG_5083.jpeg
Ordered a roller from rcmodelz because it was cheaper with the roller, servos, and VRC pipe than the US offers. I started the build yesterday and got my engine today. So far the only trouble is the 30dn 38cc does not come with a carb isolator/mount. IMG_5081.jpegIMG_5084.jpeg
I will be using a radio link system with battery telemetry and installing a high flow fuel line kit from fullforceRC. IMG_5087.jpegIMG_5088.jpeg
Is this truck version 1? I saw the V2’s had an enclosed pinion to spur gearbox
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GazooRC said:
I’m with JP. I just got one from the states and it’s the same set up. Your center diff is snugged up close to the engine. Thats a v2. V1 was further away.
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I bought a roller from the UK, along with the pipe and servos. The 38cc came from here in the states. They didn’t have the rtr with the 38 because that’s what I wanted.
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Almost ready to roll….. I didn’t receive an intake manifold so had to order one. I didn’t realize the motor wasn’t coming with it. Just need that and finish mounting the exhaust pipe.
Ok stickers don’t want to stick. Here’s what I will do…. Take the heat gun to the plastic right to the point when it starts melting on the surface. This looks like it smooths the plastic and a sticker might adhere better.IMG_5093.jpeg
 
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GazooRC said:
I’m with JP. I just got one from the states and it’s the same set up. Your center diff is snugged up close to the engine. Thats a v2. V1 was further away.
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I see that the diff was flipped around on V1. It all makes sense now, my confusion was in the v2 30dnt having the enclosed pinion/spur piece. Mine does not have that, which should make swapping pinion gears a little easier.
 
I do the same for my body clips. With my sausage fingers it is sometimes hard to get some of the clips on & off so having something to grab onto is a huge help. Also makes it easier to find them if you put them on the ground. Usually I will use the neon yellow-ish fuel line to make them a little more visable.
The only drawback is they sometimes catch the ground in a crash and get pulled off. Make up a couple extras and toss them in the tool box just in case.
 
smokinwheel said:
I do the same for my body clips. With my sausage fingers it is sometimes hard to get some of the clips on & off so having something to grab onto is a huge help. Also makes it easier to find them if you put them on the ground. Usually I will use the neon yellow-ish fuel line to make them a little more visable.
The only drawback is they sometimes catch the ground in a crash and get pulled off. Make up a couple extras and toss them in the tool box just in case.
Click to expand...
I use the kraken rubber pull tabs. You can also use a zip tie. Put some shrink wrap on it if you wanna get fancy. 🤙🏼
 
So I finally got to start and run this great big bas**** last night but it was cut short do to technical difficulties. I let it idle up until warm, it took a bit to get it to idle on its own. Once warm I began to drive it around to start seating the ring. I was trying to avoid driving slow since another fella here burned up a clutch like that. My 30 degree 38cc came with an 8000 rpm clutch spring as stated by the description from fearlessRC. About 20 seconds into driving I noticed the engine bogging down when I gave it throttle at a take off. It was obvious to me the clutch wasnt engaging. The car rolls freely on the ground, the brake is not dragging. I have adjusted my radio endpoints. I set the car up on some blocks and when reving it up, the engine bogs down and the wheels don't even spin. I removed the engine to inspect the clutch shoes, I did see dark marks on the front of the clutch shoe surfaces as if the front is rubbing into the clutch bell or perhaps only the front of the shoes are engaging. The bell does not look scarred up or discolored from heat.
Did I by chance get an engine set up with the wrong clutch plate intended for a baja?
I have messaged FearlessRC and I hope they will have some insight. Until then, I'm at work today trying to focus on adulting, not my RC life...
Rep732 said:
Use 3m primer 94 adhesive promoter, it will never come off on its own.
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Is that the most expensive 5T in the world? I saw a video on that thing. Does it run front shocks in the rear and rear shocks up front?
 
I took it apart again and inspected it again. Nothing looks off. Everything has clearance, spins freely, nothing is obvious.
I lightly sanded the clutch shoes and the bell with scotch brite.

I put it all back together and tried to fire it. On the factory settings it was pretty lean and wasn’t idling very well. As I enriched the low circuit it did begin to idle on its own. It seemed to just want fuel, i gave the high needle a good 1/4 turn and it started moving forward with throttle. The instructions that came with the motor state to just get it idling for the first heat cycle then just drive it slowly not tuning it. Rookie mistake listening to that, the factory settings are way lean for my particular area.
So, in short, i did what every new 2stroke engine needs done, beat it n seat it. No”break in”
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