5b clone, seems like a deal?

[Rceverywhere]

Hi guys, that 80 gt for vekta from Taylor is really calling to me! But the problem is I have a 34 ported in mine now that I need to find a home for as an excuse to need the 80gt. Lol
This led me to a 5b clone on fearless
https://fearlessrc.com/product/BUNDLE-TDN69001-5k/
It's a roller and fairly cheap, but is it any good?
Searched a bit to see if there was threads about it but most guys seem to change the subject to 5t each time, even though the 5b seems to be saught after. I have a 5t 2.0 with the 32cc if a 34 would be too much for the buggy. I just love wrenching, swapping out parts for any reason. Lol

 

[Dunc2504]

Hi.
See the 30DNB posts on here. I am a fan of them. And loads of Losi 5 and Rovan LT bits fit right on if you want.

 

[tacky187]

Check out my profile pic. That's a 30DNB I converted to brushless. I love the car, especially the V2 and I've owned 2. My only real "complaint" is the uniqueness of the drive train and how you're forced to the equivalent of a locked center diff.

 

[Clubin]

It’s cheap! Like $$$ wise. I’d say go for it.

 

[Dunc2504]

I converted mine with a center diff. was not that big a problem to do, just a bit of research and some machining.

 

[tacky187]

I converted mine with a center diff. was not that big a problem to do, just a bit of research and some machining.

I actually found the center drive shaft pieces that would fit and allow me to run the 5ive T center diff; I can mock it all up on the chassis. But I am scared of drilling the chassis and making sure the holes line up, etc. I even thought about instead trying a carbon fiber plate to work on and just screwing it onto the chassis in existing holes.

Do you have any advice on the maching/mounting side for a non-expert driller?

 

[Rceverywhere]

Measure four times , try to clamp it before drilling to test the fit. Then take a break to try and foresee overlooked problems??? Just ideas

 

[Dunc2504]

The standard mounting sits too high in relation to the rear gearbox input shaft : it needs to be in line , then you need to make a new shorter joint to drive rear gearbox from diff.
remove rear brace while setting up , then make a new shaped one .
I used engineer's blue on the mount and lined it up to see where to drill the chassis plate.
fiddly but not too tough.
Not as hard as trying to get an scz engine to fit in my chassis.

 

[tacky187]

The standard mounting sits too high in relation to the rear gearbox input shaft : it needs to be in line , then you need to make a new shorter joint to drive rear gearbox from diff.
remove rear brace while setting up , then make a new shaped one .
I used engineer's blue on the mount and lined it up to see where to drill the chassis plate.
fiddly but not too tough.
Not as hard as trying to get an scz engine to fit in my chassis.

Do you have any pics of your modded chassis?

 

[Dunc2504]

Just the completed job , and some pictures of the original kit instructions, look up 30DNB center diff mod on the interweb.
Made the shorter rear connector for the rear gearbox on the lathe and had to buy a longer shaft for front of diff, but all the info is out there . I fitted my diff carrier to the chassis with countersunk washers for extra security. Works fine .

 

[tacky187]

Just the completed job , and some pictures of the original kit instructions, look up 30DNB center diff mod on the interweb.
Made the shorter rear connector for the rear gearbox on the lathe and had to buy a longer shaft for front of diff, but all the info is out there . I fitted my diff carrier to the chassis with countersunk washers for extra security. Works fine .

Ahhh, yeah the JFC center diff isn't made anymore. But I think I have an idea to get my mock up.

 

[Dunc2504]

Yep.
I got the diff support on ebay in standard form for a great price used, Just had to make up the other bits and source shaft , old JFC articles gave sizes of shaft . as long as you get the center height to the bearbox input right and line up the gears with your motor gear , it is not going to be a problem . Just have to cut lumps out of the rear brace to clear , or make up an alloy one which fits instead. On the rear mount of mine I just machined it flat and made up a shim to fit in the chassis cut out. works fine with no slop or binding , and you have another diff to play with.