5T/LT franken-build Help me out please...

[Tripp]

I have them. The fit and finish is quite excellent, tolerances are tight. They are definitely built to last. And they will anodize whatever color you want for no additional cost, I got mine in black.

Sorry and thanks for that info. I just read this. Black would be nice on these.

 

[Tripp]

Yes it is a great place.

The track , the nice quiet location ; and the crew that takes care of the hospitality end of things is spot on.

As far as the photographer , well he might better at that than he is at driving.

East coast location? I think I see ferns growing. lol

 

[Tripp]

man truck absolutely rips!!!! currently in the process with my Rovan LT360 as well...bringing it up to snuff of the 5t 2.0!

Hey rg90, so I have learned a buch here on the 5T 2.0 vs LT360 differences. Mainly, it's the Center Diff configuration and proximity to the engine mounting location. The LT chassis Center Diff mounting location (screw holes) is 100% based on the Losi V1 chassis. This is not a huge deal. Just make sure if/when ordering new center diff mounts, you order 5T V1 mounts not 2.0. The Spur gear on the 2.0 is in the front half of the diff mount. The 5T v1 is in the rear. They shifted the entire mount closer to the motor and changed the location of the Spur gear to the front. Also, if using a Losi or any other v1 diff mount instead of the stock LT diff mount, the brake cams need to be swapped out with losi style cams. Most other critical parts have the same fitment. This was explained to me by Flh003 and has been proven correct in my opinion. Good luck!

 

[Tripp]

No! I'm not a "LOST LOVE SPELL CASTER!" What the H3ll?

 

[Tripp]

30DN ready to roll!
Just got the 30DN completed and installed the new Flysky Noble4+ into is cranium. Now that it can think, I was able to fire up the Zenoah 320 (upgraded to a G350RC with a Fujiwara Big Bore kit). I picked this motor up from a guy doing an elec conversion. First start up with this engine for me. I'm feel'n pretty good about it... Stock 30dn 19/58 gearing
Link:

 

[Tripp]

Below is the engine/parts purchase I obtained a while back for a good price imo on ebay. It was a Losi 5T 2.0 take off for an electric conv he was doing. The Zenoah 320rc had a freshly installed Fujiwara Bore up kit, all the take off 2.0 parts pictured, an additional Fuji Bore up kit new in box, Taylor rc pipe, and also came with a Taylor 2.0 ctr diff mount. I installed the engine in the new 30DN roller and as seen in the previous post video, I'm super happy with the Zen 320, now 35cc. It fired right up with no issues and runs great as of now... It's now fitted with the 30dn pipe. The Taylor pipe is on my Rovan Franken–build with the Taylor 35.
If anyone needs a original Losi 5T 2.0 radio/batt/servo mount tray for a build, (no servos or brace) but switch is included, let me know. It's complete however missing (1) of the chassis screws... Also will let go the complete Losi Air filter and manifold with hardware. I'll list these items if anyone is interested.
btw the Losi tank was installed on my Rovan build so its not avail.

 

[Tripp]

The new brothers from another... Rovan LT hybrid build on the left, 30DN on the right

 

[Tripp]

Configuration differences 5T v1 vs 2.0 platform top view :

Rovan build with the Taylor 35cc v2 reed case (v1 chassis):



30DN DDT7 with the Zenoah RC 35cc *hopped up* (2.0 chassis):

 

[Tripp]

Designed me a new wrap/skin. It's in production at Basher.

I've been in the vinyl cutting world for quite a while now with all the kart and MX racing for my boys. and designing all their race graphics. I do not have the thermal printing equipment used on quality off road graphics kits, just a single color vinyl cutter. However I do have the software to create vectored image files for cutting or printing. Meaning, I can do all the back end work for the graphics companies with image file creation and layouts.
I was able to create the Basher 30dn template and have sent the following file over to Dave at Basher for production.
Vectored images are resolution loss free images regardless of how large or small the file is. They are a living editable image unlike Jpeg and PDF images.
Over the years I have created or converted thousands of corporate sponsor, racing and rc images/logos. Hit me up if you need a logo file. This is a hobby for for me.
I used the Toyota TRD race truck they have as a basis, then tried to give it a bit of a Losi'ish feel with some Red Bull and an rc logo'd theme.
Going on my white 30DN body to put on the DTT7 chassis. I think it will look pretty cool once installed. Just thought I'd share.

 

[Tripp]

I'm in between a thought... I've been considering setting up the Rovan v1/Taylor build for a full on road setup and then keeping the 30DN/Zenoah build for dirt. With that said, I'm looking for some good feedback on proven setups for road course with this chassis. A couple things I've considered and would like some feedback on:
1, Should I keep it in full suspension mode to replicate the fast growing full size Super Stadium trucks on road courses with jumps, or set it up as a low and tight road course race truck? lmk
I'm willing to go either way but if going strictly road course, I would really like some setup ideas for conversion on the Rovan v1 based platform. I'm well aware that I could just start with a road course chassis/car. If I go down this path I want to convert what I have and see what I can end up with. just for the purpose of the hobby.
-Suspension, sway bars, wheels/tires, diff fluid weights, ride height, braking, and even body options, etc.....
Let me know what you guys think or know works well. Thanks!

 

[kenkamm]

Just my humble opinion on a couple of things.

Question is - do you plan to jump it on asphalt? That seems a bit harsh I guess unless you kept the jump pretty low. If you do plan to jump it then you obviously want to keep the full ride height.

I personally wouldn't be jumping it on asphalt, so if it were my vehicle I would make it low and find a way to reduce overall suspension travel to maybe 25-30mm. But you can't just use the droop screws to lower it; then you end up with your springs already compressed and that's going to be detrimental to handling. I would potentially go as far as cutting springs to make sure there is no spring pre-load at the new ride height. I personally don't see the need for front shocks on the rear because the rear shock tower is taller - it's made for longer shocks - the truck sits level in stock form - so if you put front shocks on the rear they are going to be too short and you're gonna have the Carolina Squat or whatever they call it.

I would definitely try to source some heavier sway bars. The ones that come on these trucks are kind of a joke - they don't limit roll very effectively and certainly not effectively enough for this platform with road tires on it.

For diff fluids you will want to go lighter. You'll have more grip so you will want to take advantage of lighter fluid. It makes it easier to drift and more willing to rotate in corners.

That's all I got. Sounds like a fun project.

Oh - for bodies. There was a guy on FB who road raced his 5ive. He put a Raminator Chevy body on it and it looked badass. It turns out the Raminator body has the exact correct wheelbase for the 5ive. What are the chances? It took some custom work including some fenders he fabricated out of Lexan. Wish I had a pic from the side but this is all I have saved.

 

[Tripp]

Thanks for the good feed back! There is much to consider. I'll probably lean more into a full street conversion if i go down this path. Regarding the rear shocks, I would rather have the same length shocks all around and would obviously need a custom rear shock tower at minimum. I've seen guys using zip ties to compress the springs and lower the ride height but I'm not really interested in that type of setup. If I go down this path, it's going to require some dedicated modifications and challenges that I would be willing to deal with and this project would definitely take some time.
I could take the easy road and get a MCD or FG roller and basically modify a truck body but that isn't what I'm after. I just want something unique to tinker on and keep my brain moving before it stops...

 

[Speed Freak Racing]

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Hey all, new to the forum here, I recently bought a new Rovan 360LT 4wh (don't pound on me please). Obviously this is a clone of the 5T but I couldn't find a 5T and have started working on some upgrades. A little back story on my RC experience so those of you that have a similar history can give real constructive support if you choose.
-35 plus years of RC aircraft and vehicles. Large scale warbirds and 3D Air, 3D Heli, RC touring, buggy, on road, carpet cars, and off road as well as the early 1:5 HARM gas touring cars...as well as a lot of Kart racing and MX for my kids.
So I'm just looking for some technical info from those of you that have vast experience in the 1:5 gas
It obviously came with a Rovan 36cc which fires right up and runs well as of now. However, I'm at altitude in CO (6K ft) and we loose about 15% power due to the alt always. I've completed a full tank of break-in with Klotz however will be running Amsoil Dom here on out. So, I just purchased a TaylorRC 35 reed engine (tonight ) to just get it over with haha and I'm trying to make sure everything I order works with the Rovan LT stock diff and install for now or???. I will make changes if needed. Additionally, I'm looking for info on the different clutch bell housings/pinion gears/spur gears, options and compatibility. I don't have a 5th scale track to run/race on (in this entire state full of land) so I just want a powerful truck to rip around on some MX tracks and vacant lots.
Sorry for the long intro but really want some solid input for set up and compatability. All opinions welcome. Thanks!

Here's were I'm at.... The front toe looks extreme in the cell phone pics. Its not at all as bad as it looks....
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I bought back in a day an original Baja SS in the kit form. I assemble the whole thing overtime by myself. As the years past I started moding the car and now has a Taylor 35 on it. Metal clutch shoes, all sorts of goodies. I don’t believe there’s one part left on it that’s original Baja so for anybody to pick on a Rovan is ridiculous and by the way, Rovan made the same plant that made the Baja. At some point your car will be so modified that you can’t call it a Baja or Rovan it will become a custom build based on one of those cars. Also use black bone gears and as far as your difs run them until they grenade and then hit up Taylor RC for an upgrade. Drive it like you stole it and enjoy it, good luck have fun and don’t hit anything. P.S. buy a good kill switch.

 

[Tripp]

Those are some nice builds! To be clear, I don't have anything bad to say about the Rovan LT truck/chassis I started with. It has been very durable and I've had zero issues with it so far. I did add some Taylor chassis and steering braces as well as a Modified RC center diff and some aftermarket links but overall its has proven to be a solid 5T platform. No complaints at all....