a DIFFERENT kill switch question

[Jshaff16]

A'ight y'all, All is well on my end. However, my kill-switch failed me today. Ideally, I go out get a full run in and run out of gas and call it good because i'm bored. Well today I somehow blew a bead lock and sent my tire foam all over the place. So no biggie i drive it back to me and press kill button on transmitter...and nothing. No biggie. Hit the switch on engine...and nothing. Grabbed my gerber off my hip and simply pinched the fuel line to kill engine.

So, as far as my understanding its a switch. Ok, got it. A normally closed switch. So, you press button on engine or on transmitter whatever channel you have it wired to it should open said switch and kill power aka ignition in our case. Well that didn't happen.

With all that being said is this something as simple as I dropped a lead off of my ignition coil? Would motor stay running like that? Flywheel is still turning its still generating power so it really wouldn't die? Or am I overlooking something? Or UNDER-looking something?

With engine off, i press my button on TX the kill switch still seems to work. Buzzer and led....and NO i haven't looked at it yet.

 

[crucialRC]

Check your connections at the switch and coil. Same situation here and the ground connection was broken and she wouldn't shut off with the killswitch or engine stop button. Been there done that?

 

[Jshaff16]

exactly my thoughts. they're not too secure at all. and i was beating on it (tumbling) pretty good.

 

[Minnesota RC]

My killswitch on my Losi wouldn't kill the engine or pressing the button on the engine itself would kill it. I had to pinch the fuel line to kill it. After some lookin' my killswitch button disconnected from the positive, so the circuit couldn't be completed.

 

[Jshaff16]

Yeah I figured as much. Ill pull it down soon. Have a small other project on my hands too. But i will get to it shortly.

 

[Seandonato73]

Ok first it's an open circuit system. You close to kill it. So no wires hooked up = no kill. A magneto system is self generating. So either the flywheel needs to come off or fuel needs shut off for it to stop with out the kill lead hooked up. Try a bit of heat shrink on your connections to keep them together without the need to de solder everytime the engine needs to come out.

 

[Jshaff16]

I'll be pulling it apart this weekend. It's only got those spade like terminals on it. Heat shrink should do the trick. Thanks everyone. Once again, I haven't looked at it yet. But that's my suspicion...they're very loose fitting as is

 

[Striikar]

Professor SD73 is in da house.??

 

[Seandonato73]

Nah, just basic engine stuff.

 

[siblues]

I always like reading Sean's post he explains everything so nice and simple and breaks it down for you.He is like a 5th grade science teacher.

"The Professor" would be a worthy title for him

 

[Basher5iveT420]

+1??

Sean gives some of the best advice on the forum!

 

[Bryan K.]

With the amount of vibration the engine produces I didn't trust how loose the connection was on the coil. I literally soldered the kill switch connectors onto the coil just to be safe. You can try crimping the connectors a bit as well before plugging them back in. I heat shrink and zip tie all my electrical connectors inside my receiver box as well.

 

[Seandonato73]

Although I'm a fan of soldering, I was taking an electrical class few years back. Was put on by john deere. Up untill recently the only fix for a broken wire was to replace the harness. In this class they discussed how they would be going forward with harness repairs as the new harnesses were no longer easily replaced, or cost effective to replace. Knowing the instructor for years I said just solder it heat shrink it and be done with it. I got educated. So theres a fine line between hot enough and too hot. Too hot the wire gets degraded, blah blah blah. To prove this they had stations set up for us all to try the different methods. Most of the guys didnt know how to solder or used too much heat. When they applied a 10lb weight (all connections 14ga and larger should be able to withstand a min 10lb stress test) most of everyone's solder joints broke where the solder stopped. The crimp on heat shrink connectors or a spade style connector with heat shrink tubing (internal glue type, used for both) would withstand the 10lb pull test and then some. Hence now I reccomend the heat shrink method, as I have no idea of someone's soldering skills, especially on a critical component like the kill wire.