any ideas? got spark, go fuel, no start

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chitown joe

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any ideas guys? i just finished installing a new 30.5, got spark, and got fuel but i wont even try to start/
thanks for info
joe
 
now anyone think this could be it? i put a integy air filter on it added some air filter oil to it, might be starving the air thru the pleated material?
 
Silly question, but how old is the carburettor?
If the needles are fine, reset to the rough factory settings of 1.25 LOW and 1.375 (1 3/8) HIGH - which is obviously carb wear / needle dependent so can vary - and see how it is.

Al.
 
about a month old 813 walbro, ran it about an hour total before i disassembled the chassis for upgrades,
could it a be gasket covering a injector port maybe?(little holes in the manifold and carb)
gonna disassemble the carb and manifold and check gasketing
 
you have a killer bee installed? i found out on mine if KB installed like mine i installed, if the Rx batt voltage is low it kills the circuit to engine, i recharged my battery and it fired right up.
 
hope thats it on yours, i tried like 3 diff occasions over last 3 months to start mine, forgetting if battery was too low the KB would prevent engine from running, thats part of its function, the KB does everything it can to prevent you from havin a runaway, say ya got it runnin on a low Rx batt, no KB, after 10 mins it goes dead staying in positions on servos when batt died, that might be full T, not a good thing, but with KB installed, say, ya had nuff juice left to get it running and go for 10 mins and batt then got too low, the KB would kill the engine and throw the brake on. if your sure that your getting gas to plug, easy nuff to check after pulls t yank engine look at plug, should be wet and oder of gas in chamber. then this is only thing i can think of if you have a KB on there is batt low, just fully recharge RX batt and the radio batt too, it works the same for radio as well, if radio batt gets low, KB will kill the engine, kinda same result as radio off, or kill button, or loss of signal it kills truck. also good idea to test the kb each run beforehand too, get it goin, hit the kill button on radio if you programmed it, or turn off radio, truck should die and if ya got green light and buzzer like i do buzzer goes off green light flashes. and truck dies
 
charging the battery, also i removed the manifold i guess there are differences in the 30.5's, the engine kits i have are rovan, but the one that came on it was chung yang, and that injector hole was off by about half on the c/y so i got another gasket from another engine kit and the rovan matched up, after this battery charges i'll go give it another try,
 
yah they have to line up, i put a alloy one from a company off ebay, it come with teflon gaskets, i had to trac the hole in gasket over to match the carb. once i did that no probs. cant remember the name right off hand without lookin at truck what that block spacer was from, but it was longer than stock, and with the 45 degree angles V stack there too, first thing i had to do was readjust carb for idle lowspeed and high, still need a tiny bit tweaking to high end, but its pretty close once warmed up good the 2nd gear kicks in bout right, and yanks the front almost off the ground.
 
idle screwed almost all the way, i have had the throttle held open while im pulling but no go, but the coil might be the issue, has spark just not a big spark
 
Check your spark plug, maybe you already have but if its wet you should replace it. If its dry its not getting fuel. Doesn't hurt to leave it out but connected and check that it is producing spark when crank it over.
 
alright,lets start from the begining, my shoulder and arm is sore from pulling, that sounds wrong,LOL
since my original king motor blew that already enroute to the seller.
so i bought several things, 1st i already had spare rovan 30.5 engine kits
so i got a new cy crankcase set with bearings, i bought a 29 engine from outtaluck and took the air manifold and flywheel from that engine,new coil,new zen clutch housing new zen clutch holder, and new clutch set,heck i even have a new 813 carb if needed,
getting fuel thru the engine i took it apart to check the interals, everything peachy, my spark i can see it when i crank the engine, plug is wet,so my last guess is the flywheel is bad, but i do get a spark,
so before i put back into the chassis anyone got anything i might be missing?
i do have engine spacers the copper gasket looking things in 0.5mm and 1.0mm
engine turns over with out them,
any help is appreciated
thanks
joe
assembled the engine
 
o.k. i got, 1 removed a 0.5mm head shim and after a few spins of the roto start she spuddered, got it to run for a bit, getting alot of black oil coming out of the engine,that normal on a new break in?
 
25 to 1 correct,i think it might be from the new ring since its black oxide when i installed it.
 
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