Anyone Do Their Own Porting?

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MonsterAir

MonsterAir

Lone Racer 🤠
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I was thinking about trying to give porting a shot. I don't expect to get OBR or ESP results but can I accomplish this without royally screwing up the first time or 2? I'm still new to the idea and not even really sure where to start but I have a dremel and long winter ahead of me.
 
MonsterAir said:
I was thinking about trying to give porting a shot. I don't expect to get OBR or ESP results but can I accomplish this without royally screwing up the first time or 2? I'm still new to the idea and not even really sure where to start but I have a dremel and long winter ahead of me.
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theres a couple guys on here that do , I looked into it and figured it was best and cheapest to let the pro's do it ! but if your bored and want to learn go for it !
 
Jshaff16 said:
Y'all are putting him on quite the pedestal! He went from carb guy to saw guy to tractor guy skip a few into 12v cummings guy etc lol

But yeah ask sean!
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What U jealous
No Way Reaction GIF
Bro ??
 
Gee guys I'm feeling a little too much love lol. But thanks for the complements.
I'm not the only guys that ports engines, or the best at it, but a basic rundown is fairly easy.
This is what I would consider a rather basic list, but should get you by for a beginner and not cost an arm and a leg.
Flex shaft grinder. Ie dremel is the cheapest way to go for light use.
Burrs, I like a nice mix of carbide, different lengths and shapes. I have a few diamond burrs but don't use them a lot. I don't care for the hss burrs.
Marker, ruler, and degree wheel. The degree wheel isnt necessarily needed at first, but advisable to find where your port timing is at.
Typically your just looking to improve air flow, the more you get in and out the more power the engine will make. Opening up the ports, changing port timing all go to play with how you want the engine to run, and where it will make its power. If your sticking with piston port engine, you need to remember your piston is your "valve" and any modifications will directly affect how the engine runs. Raise or lower a port too much and you risk negative effects if you go too far. Most guys seem to start with the basic port widening, smoothing out transitions, and polishing any factory defects out of the castings. Lowering the squish band helps out a lot and is a basic mod that most feel comfortable doing. I normally shoot for close to 0.020" squish. (This is the distance between the top of the piston and the bottom of the head. I measure it with solder, there are indicator set ups for it, but for the amount I care the solder works just fine) general rule of thumb is not to go over 70% of your piston width for port widening 60% would be advisable at first. Go too far and you'll be working the dog out of the ring. I also like to make sure I have nice chamfer on the edges of the ports to help from the ring catching.
It's not really a hard thing to do if you remember once the metal is gone it's gone, so have a plan of attack, draw out what you want to do in the cylinder and stick to it. You'll mess a few up at first, but once you start figuring it out, it's quite fun to do, and rather rewarding when so one asks what engine is that and you say. That's mine.
 
Seandonato73 said:
Gee guys I'm feeling a little too much love lol. But thanks for the complements.
I'm not the only guys that ports engines, or the best at it, but a basic rundown is fairly easy.
This is what I would consider a rather basic list, but should get you by for a beginner and not cost an arm and a leg.
Flex shaft grinder. Ie dremel is the cheapest way to go for light use.
Burrs, I like a nice mix of carbide, different lengths and shapes. I have a few diamond burrs but don't use them a lot. I don't care for the hss burrs.
Marker, ruler, and degree wheel. The degree wheel isnt necessarily needed at first, but advisable to find where your port timing is at.
Typically your just looking to improve air flow, the more you get in and out the more power the engine will make. Opening up the ports, changing port timing all go to play with how you want the engine to run, and where it will make its power. If your sticking with piston port engine, you need to remember your piston is your "valve" and any modifications will directly affect how the engine runs. Raise or lower a port too much and you risk negative effects if you go too far. Most guys seem to start with the basic port widening, smoothing out transitions, and polishing any factory defects out of the castings. Lowering the squish band helps out a lot and is a basic mod that most feel comfortable doing. I normally shoot for close to 0.020" squish. (This is the distance between the top of the piston and the bottom of the head. I measure it with solder, there are indicator set ups for it, but for the amount I care the solder works just fine) general rule of thumb is not to go over 70% of your piston width for port widening 60% would be advisable at first. Go too far and you'll be working the dog out of the ring. I also like to make sure I have nice chamfer on the edges of the ports to help from the ring catching.
It's not really a hard thing to do if you remember once the metal is gone it's gone, so have a plan of attack, draw out what you want to do in the cylinder and stick to it. You'll mess a few up at first, but once you start figuring it out, it's quite fun to do, and rather rewarding when so one asks what engine is that and you say. That's mine.
Click to expand...
how do you DRAW in the cyl ???
 
Seandonato73 said:
Gee guys I'm feeling a little too much love lol. But thanks for the complements.
I'm not the only guys that ports engines, or the best at it, but a basic rundown is fairly easy.
This is what I would consider a rather basic list, but should get you by for a beginner and not cost an arm and a leg.
Flex shaft grinder. Ie dremel is the cheapest way to go for light use.
Burrs, I like a nice mix of carbide, different lengths and shapes. I have a few diamond burrs but don't use them a lot. I don't care for the hss burrs.
Marker, ruler, and degree wheel. The degree wheel isnt necessarily needed at first, but advisable to find where your port timing is at.
Typically your just looking to improve air flow, the more you get in and out the more power the engine will make. Opening up the ports, changing port timing all go to play with how you want the engine to run, and where it will make its power. If your sticking with piston port engine, you need to remember your piston is your "valve" and any modifications will directly affect how the engine runs. Raise or lower a port too much and you risk negative effects if you go too far. Most guys seem to start with the basic port widening, smoothing out transitions, and polishing any factory defects out of the castings. Lowering the squish band helps out a lot and is a basic mod that most feel comfortable doing. I normally shoot for close to 0.020" squish. (This is the distance between the top of the piston and the bottom of the head. I measure it with solder, there are indicator set ups for it, but for the amount I care the solder works just fine) general rule of thumb is not to go over 70% of your piston width for port widening 60% would be advisable at first. Go too far and you'll be working the dog out of the ring. I also like to make sure I have nice chamfer on the edges of the ports to help from the ring catching.
It's not really a hard thing to do if you remember once the metal is gone it's gone, so have a plan of attack, draw out what you want to do in the cylinder and stick to it. You'll mess a few up at first, but once you start figuring it out, it's quite fun to do, and rather rewarding when so one asks what engine is that and you say. That's mine.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much, you gave me a place to start! I ordered a cylinder squish tool last week and I will learn how to use a degree wheel and order one of those too. Kinda went over my head w/ the lowering squish band. Do you mean by using a stroker? I have been curious as to what tool is used to make more room for the strokers. Is there a special bit that is used?
 
With a sharpie
MonsterAir said:
Thank you very much, you gave me a place to start! I ordered a cylinder squish tool last week and I will learn how to use a degree wheel and order one of those too. Kinda went over my head w/ the lowering squish band. Do you mean by using a stroker? I have been curious as to what tool is used to make more room for the strokers. Is there a special bit that is used?
Click to expand...
Ah normally you can only lower it so far without a lath. Theres some nifty home brew tools out there for cutting the base and squish band, but it not for the faint of heart, and not a beginners type of thing to do. You can get thinner base gaskets, for these little engines, or if need be delete the base gasket, and use a sealer.
 
Seandonato73 said:
With a sharpie

Ah normally you can only lower it so far without a lath. Theres some nifty home brew tools out there for cutting the base and squish band, but it not for the faint of heart, and not a beginners type of thing to do. You can get thinner base gaskets, for these little engines, or if need be delete the base gasket, and use a sealer.
Click to expand...
you must have BABY hands LOL !!! ,
BTW DDM has 0.012" copper gaskets or go no gasket with a good sealer like Sean said , I assume you could use plastic shim stock and cut out at the perfect thickness as well ??
 
Seandonato73 said:
With a sharpie

Ah normally you can only lower it so far without a lath. Theres some nifty home brew tools out there for cutting the base and squish band, but it not for the faint of heart, and not a beginners type of thing to do. You can get thinner base gaskets, for these little engines, or if need be delete the base gasket, and use a sealer.
Click to expand...

Ok I gotcha now, I've got every sized gasket on the market right now to play with squish when my tool arrives.... I will look into a lath. They charge damn near $100 for that +2mm of extra clearance at DDM so might just be worth buying a lath rather than stacking gaskets. Any suggestions on something precise that won't break the bank?
 
Believe me a quality lath isnt a cheap investment, or I'd have one. The crank cases need clearances as well for a stroker crank. Im not a fan of spacers or stacking gaskets, but it's been done before with good results. Just my preference. Look up home made squish band cutters and you'll see what I'm talking about, I know some guys I would send an engine to that don't own a lath and get excellent results, the lath is just less labor intensive once your set up for it. It does require some special tooling and a jig to turn the cylinders, so unless your thinking production I wouldnt bother.
 
so Sean if you just use spacers the displacement doesn't change right ? BUT you bring in more air/fuel right ? for a properly setup stroker you would have to lower the ports as well right ? hence increasing displacement.
 
buzzkill said:
so Sean if you just use spacers the displacement doesn't change right ? BUT you bring in more air/fuel right ? for a properly setup stroker you would have to lower the ports as well right ? hence increasing displacement.
Click to expand...

Not directed at me but if you increase stroke you also increase displacement. More combustion room.
 
Yep what he said. ☝?
buzzkill said:
you must have BABY hands LOL !!! ,
BTW DDM has 0.012" copper gaskets or go no gasket with a good sealer like Sean said , I assume you could use plastic shim stock and cut out at the perfect thickness as well ??
Click to expand...
These little cylinders are a major pain to work on. My line up starts at 50cc and goes up to 100cc, so you have more real estate to work with. If I get a chance I'll draw up on an old cylinder to show what I'm talking about.
 
Good video of cutting the squish band.. those mandrels seem to be hard to find also sean. A few guys on saw forums no less:ROFLMAO: had machinists turn them one a lathe. And honestly unless we up the displacement in these significantly then we are extremely limited to just working on different porting techniques. There's no big bore kits for the g320 and the +2mm stroker seems to be the max. Boring the cylinder is out of the question too
 
I was just watching that vid!.... Well isn't a +2mm stroker with machined head considered a big bore?.... I was thinking the same about have a local machine shop do a few for me but now that I'm learning these cases need more room to accommodate the stroker cranks this whole endeavor seems kind of useless. If all the major performance mods need to be done with heavy machinery then I guess I'll be stuck buying OBR or ESP gear.



For some reason I feel like this isn't the proper way. lol


 
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