Bartolone 34cc Reed Break In Procedure

[zxb466]

Hi everyone,

Just pulled the trigger on a Bartolone 34cc Reed engine from DDM paired with a Bartolone 34cc-35cc pipe for my Losi 5ive T 2.0. Will the engine come with break in procedure instructions? What is a good break in procedure to follow?

 

[jeepfreak1972]

Hi everyone,

Just pulled the trigger on a Bartolone 34cc Reed engine from DDM paired with a Bartolone 34cc-35cc pipe for my Losi 5ive T 2.0. Will the engine come with break in procedure instructions? What is a good break in procedure to follow?

I'm sure opinions will vary wildly on this subject like what oil to run lol. I have a procedure I've been doing for years that involves several heat cycles among other things.

 

[Seandonato73]

There's nothing to break in but the ring, which requires dynamic load to seat properly. Fire it up, let it warm up and run it. Too many nitro hold overs and wives tails that simply don't apply to a regular 2 stroke.

 

[jeepfreak1972]

My procedure came from the FG modellsport race team engine builders via Molzer Mowrey racing years ago. Its very similar to the recommended break-in LA sleeve uses as well as Dumonde racing oils. All are a little different but very similar.

 

[Rep732]

Like Sean said let it warm up and hammer down, just make sure your tune is good.

 

[Mick Boomer]

Beat it and seat it. Its basically a weedeater

 

[Seandonato73]

My procedure came from the FG modellsport race team engine builders via Molzer Mowrey racing years ago. Its very similar to the recommended break-in LA sleeve uses as well as Dumonde racing oils. All are a little different but very similar.

Did he give you any reason for his break in procedure with proof of any of it being needed? We used la sleeves nearly exclusively at the machine shop for parent bore engines, outside of getting run in on the dyno there were no heat cycles or other such non sense unless for a specific reason, ie cam break in, head bolt/ stud retorque (very rare.) Besides that comparing a iron bore to chrome or nikasil plated bore is apples to carrots.

 

[smokinwheel]

When we dyno an engine like yourself there really isn't really any break in. Start it up and make sure everything is up to snuff , some cycles through the lower RPM range with varied loads for a little bit. Really the only heat cycle might be a quick valve adjustment for the final time before sending it to the moon.

Now; 2 stroke stuff is not my best subject and still trying to learn more about them.

My last break in was a few heat cycles and a little light driving at varied throttle positions, trying to resist any long full throttle pulls keeping the mixture a little on the rich side. After that it is all out and time to start tuning it.
So far, I haven't wrecked anything.

 

[jeepfreak1972]

Did he give you any reason for his break in procedure with proof of any of it being needed? We used la sleeves nearly exclusively at the machine shop for parent bore engines, outside of getting run in on the dyno there were no heat cycles or other such non sense unless for a specific reason, ie cam break in, head bolt/ stud retorque (very rare.) Besides that comparing a iron bore to chrome or nikasil plated bore is apples to carrots.

Yes, in fact he did. He said the German engine builders, for FG, tested every kind of break in process that was common and found that the method he recommended, on average, gave more power and longer engine life. As I stated, its very similar to LA sleeve's break-in listed below except your not riding it. Im not getting into a pissing match over break-in pricess. Its your money.

 

[smokinwheel]

Thanks jeepfreak.
Not too far from what I have been doing.

 

[jeepfreak1972]

Thanks jeepfreak.
Not too far from what I have been doing.

You're welcome bud. I've been doing that process about 24 years now on every 2 stroke I buy new or I rebuild. I've seen nothing negative that is going to disuade me from doing it this way.

 

[Seandonato73]

We're just gonna disagree on that process, it's standard warranty bs with no merrit behind it.

 

[jeepfreak1972]

We're just gonna disagree on that process, it's standard warranty bs with no merrit behind it.

Lol. Fine by me. Zero effs given on my part.

 

[Shy gur 1]

Hi everyone,

Just pulled the trigger on a Bartolone 34cc Reed engine from DDM paired with a Bartolone 34cc-35cc pipe for my Losi 5ive T 2.0. Will the engine come with break in procedure instructions? What is a good break in procedure to follow?

Never did break in b4, i warm up the engine,tune it and thats it... after a few heat cycles i tune it again and bash like hell

 

[jeepfreak1972]

Hi everyone,

Just pulled the trigger on a Bartolone 34cc Reed engine from DDM paired with a Bartolone 34cc-35cc pipe for my Losi 5ive T 2.0. Will the engine come with break in procedure instructions? What is a good break in procedure to follow?

Dud you inquire about a break-in process with Bartolone racing?

 

[John Parks]

What Sean said.

 

[zxb466]

Thank you to everyone who responded! Should be getting it in the next few days. Will update with how it goes

Dud you inquire about a break-in process with Bartolone racing?

I emailed Chris Bartolone yesterday but he has not responded yet. DDM told me the engine will come with a manual. I'll post it here when I receive it.
I am curious, what is the reason/purpose for replacing the spark plug mutliple times in the break in procedure?
I understand that checking the plug will help determine if you're running rich or lean but what is the reason for replacing it with a new one during the break in procedure?

 

[smokinwheel]

Thank you to everyone who responded! Should be getting it in the next few days. Will update with how it goes

I emailed Chris Bartolone yesterday but he has not responded yet. DDM told me the engine will come with a manual. I'll post it here when I receive it.
I am curious, what is the reason/purpose for replacing the spark plug mutliple times in the break in procedure?
I understand that checking the plug will help determine if you're running rich or lean but what is the reason for replacing it with a new one during the break in procedure?

My only guess is to make it easier to read.
I don't change plugs myself. Run it a little rich to keep it safe at first then start tuning.

Unless it is "pig rich" and you drown a plug and if it is that rich you better recheck your settings and start back at the beginning.

 

[Rep732]

Break in causes the plugs to foul as your loading it up with oil/fuel at lower rims plus engines temps are colder than at full rpm

 

[Seandonato73]

Thank you to everyone who responded! Should be getting it in the next few days. Will update with how it goes

I emailed Chris Bartolone yesterday but he has not responded yet. DDM told me the engine will come with a manual. I'll post it here when I receive it.
I am curious, what is the reason/purpose for replacing the spark plug mutliple times in the break in procedure?
I understand that checking the plug will help determine if you're running rich or lean but what is the reason for replacing it with a new one during the break in procedure?

Here I'll give you the standard response from every 2t engine manufacturer in the world. Baby it, run it extra fat, let it warm up and cool down for x number of tanks, blip the throttle, but don't give it full throttle till tank x or y number of hours. Total bs. You do you, but I've been building, repairing and dynoing engines far too long to believe that bs, or Amy other bs break in procedure for a ball bearing 2 stroke that has one component to wear in. That engines manufactures across the world have agreed needs consistent load to properly seat. Once that's done it's game over, that happens in the first few minutes when done properly. Screwing around with excessively rich settings doesn't do jack but fowl plugs for no reason.