bending exhaust pipe at the flange.

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Bogan Thunder

Bogan Thunder

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i got this old exhaust that was rusty and want to lower the angle at the flange so it lowers the rear end of the pipe by 10-15mm...i also plan to cut the metal mount tab of as well.
I have a spare cylinder i can connect the pipe to then brace it and attempt to bend the pipe around the flange weld?

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You'll most likely kink the pipe if you try to bend it free hand. If you really want to give it a shot heat it up cherry red and put light pressure on it as you heat so you can't try to keep the kink at a minimum.
 
I would just cut a "V" shape into the pipe and bend it down and reweld it. DO not cut all the way through the pipe just leave some behind to keep aligned and reweld it up.
 
TODD said:
I would just cut a "V" shape into the pipe and bend it down and reweld it. DO not cut all the way through the pipe just leave some behind to keep aligned and reweld it up.
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This is what I was thinking myself. Not the easiest material to weld though being so thin. Silicon Bronze rod is always an option and does not require quite as much heat.
I welded my DBXL pipe and used 1/16 tungsten and some .030 mig wire I stripped off the spool. Tricky but it is doable.
 
They make a .040 inch tungsten also. I use it for welding real thin low amperage stuff. They also have a .023 inch rod also that works for thin stuff.
 
Thanks for the replies, i really should get a welder and learn to weld and i was planning to do Rep732 idea just to slightly bend it but even doing that needs to be done right. I won't mess with the exhaust yet i'll fit it back and see how it runs.
 
Bogan Thunder said:
Thanks for the replies, i really should get a welder and learn to weld and i was planning to do Rep732 idea just to slightly bend it but even doing that needs to be done right. I won't mess with the exhaust yet i'll fit it back and see how it runs.
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If you want a welder do yourself a favor and save your money and buy a good machine , not some flux core Harbor Fright $99 special , you will regret it in the end.
Maybe it would be OK for a couple small jobs but down the road probably not so much.
 
smokinwheel said:
If you want a welder do yourself a favor and save your money and buy a good machine
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true you do get what you pay for with welders.

i didn't tighten the flange bolts and this is the angle i want...it's not much difference compared to when the bolts are tight.
i plan to drive this car on flat grass and i plan not to roll it.
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You could make a shim for that. Just need to cut the shape, or use an old flange, and grind or file the taper you want and throw in another gasket.
 
IMO, instead of one v-notch and weld, I would cut multiple slits, bend to desired angle and then weld. Paying a welder to weld it is cheaper than buying a welder and all the other equipment that goes with it. I'm not sure of the limitations of the typical household electrical outlets in other countries. But then again, some just want an excuse to buy tools... I'm certainly guilty of it, but I have an excuse as I wrench on different types of vehicles.
 
3illmesmart said:
You could make a shim for that. Just need to cut the shape, or use an old flange, and grind or file the taper you want and throw in another gasket.
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You beat me to the punch on that. I was thinking about a tapered spacer between the cylinder and pipe flange as well.
Gasket-tapered spacer-another gasket-pipe. Might be easiest.
 
I too was thinking a tapered spacer it wouldn't need much of a angle on it for it to level out the pipe.

i got try it at the park.
 
Tapered spacers the boat guys have used on the exhaust for certain hulls they need to kick pipe down at angle.
 
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