Best exhaust gasket.

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Rep732 said:
Mmm is that why your having issues with your engine now? I'd rather foul a 5 dollar plug then cold seize an engine.
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honestly i've absolutely no idea, i only mean like a little blip not even let it move forward sorta thing. it runs fine 95% of the time then just dies so its either something is up with the carb or if its a dodgy coil when it gets warm or something which wouldnt surprise me being a clone
always blipped the throttle on all my 2 stroke dirtbikes, current one coming up on 100 hours?
Seandonato73 said:
The whole octane thing is about frivolous, untill your running high enough compression to need the anti knock features. In a stock ngune there's no real reason to run higher then mid grade, or highest pump gas at best. Ethonal gas in of its self is not any worse running then straight gas. Slightly less power, but we'll within the range if what the carbs can flow fuel wise. Poor storage and after run practices are more to blame then the ethonal its self.
The splooge is from high oil to fuel ratios and poor tuning ( air to fuel). To understand this you need to understand a few basic principals. Fuel doesn't burn in liquid state. It needs to be turned into a vapor. The carb atomizes the fuel into the air. In this phase its still a liquid, albeit very small droplets it is a liquid. It does not turn into a vapor until it enters the crankcase, this is where the oil suspended in the fuel drops out and the liquid fuel droplets vaporize. The oil now has to migrate from the crankcase out to the cylinder, and bearings. Modern oils are designed to be burned with the fuel. This does not add any appreciable gunk at normal ratio level with modern oil, actually it doesn't do much to affect the burn at all. Lower classes of oils can, will, and do effect the burn in the combustion chamber.

Now we need to speak about how much oil is really needed. At idle, virtually no oil is needed. There just isn't enough load or rpm to make oil migrate quickly through the engine. This rises with rpm and load. Our top end rpm dictates we need more oil since it is seeing less time in the engine, but our load rate says we don't really need as much oil. Oil ratio is a function of rpm and sustained load. I will guarantee 90% of us don't have much of a load, let alone a sustained load on any land based rc engine with the exception for racing. So really 25 to 1 isn't needed or warranted. 33 to 1 or 40 to1 would be more then adequate, and I have a g320 that ran gallons and gallons of fuel with no I'll effect at 50 to 1.

Tuning..... I'd wager a small bet between electrical and tuning questions the tuning would be close to the most asked on this or any forum. Fact is most people can't tune an engine to save their lives. It's ok, and most of us that do tell people to run a little on the rich side. Helps cool the engine and keeps you from running too lean and blowing up your engine. We're not there so we can't really tell you what state of tune your engine is in, videos help but are just a general yep sounds OK. Down side of running rich is carbon deposits from the fuel. Our fuel is actually a mix of garbage and really good stuff to make up a minimum spec that the garbage can't meet. Add in storage, and transportation and I'd wager most fuel when bought is at its limits for quality. (Mind you this has been proven many times, the studies are out there.) So we're left with a half decent fuel, thay is full of junk that will leave deposits. Happens in your 4 stroke why can't it happen in your 2 stroke? It does. We just pay more attention to these little engines vs our car engines. But we have specs for 2t oils! But nearly no one in large scale rc seems to run low ash, high detergent oils, because again old garbage that lost favor 20 years ago is promoted because of myths and old wives tails. Dino,vs semi, vs full synthetic is another topic.

No offense this is 10000000% an old wife's tail from the days of garbage 2t oil. I can let any of my 2 strokes sit and idle all day and non of them will foul a plug. Poor tuning and sub par oil cause this.
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tbf yeah you're completely right with a decent oil (motorex race oil, same stuff ktm recommends for all their 2 stroke bikes) it shouldnt be a problem at all. its just a natural thing for me at this point
 
My fault for dragging your post in here but let's keep others threads on point. And you have a clone engine and I bet your dirtbikes are not clones. Clone engines just do not last.
 
Is that like clicking the barbeque tongs every time you pick them up to prime the spring or vroom vrooming the screw driver prior to use?
I believe this stuff because for sure we are letting it idle for 3-4 minutes all the time (I usually have a dart: it's a reliable timer) in the cold and just generally the performance seems to increase as we run especially after a few passes. The last time was very noticeable: maybe a result of blowing some garbage out of the engine and finally putting proper fuel in? Are these plugs just available at any auto store? I feel like we should change it just for the experience and to see what horrors we have done and for 5 bucks why not?
I believe this stuff because for sure we are letting it idle for 3-4 minutes all the time (I usually have a dart: it's a reliable timer) in the cold and just generally the performance seems to increase as we run especially after a few passes. The last time was very noticeable: maybe a result of blowing some garbage out of the engine and finally putting proper fuel in? Are these plugs just available at any auto store? I feel like we should change it just for the experience and to see what horrors we have done and for 5 bucks why not?
 
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local auto stores will be able to get you plugs in a days notice typically in Canada. If they don’t stock them they’ll ship from a warehouse by the next day. Buy a couple and keep a spare on hand should you ever need it.
 
Freelander said:
Is that like clicking the barbeque tongs every time you pick them up to prime the spring or vroom vrooming the screw driver prior to use?
I believe this stuff because for sure we are letting it idle for 3-4 minutes all the time (I usually have a dart: it's a reliable timer) in the cold and just generally the performance seems to increase as we run especially after a few passes. The last time was very noticeable: maybe a result of blowing some garbage out of the engine and finally putting proper fuel in? Are these plugs just available at any auto store? I feel like we should change it just for the experience and to see what horrors we have done and for 5 bucks why not?
I believe this stuff because for sure we are letting it idle for 3-4 minutes all the time (I usually have a dart: it's a reliable timer) in the cold and just generally the performance seems to increase as we run especially after a few passes. The last time was very noticeable: maybe a result of blowing some garbage out of the engine and finally putting proper fuel in? Are these plugs just available at any auto store? I feel like we should change it just for the experience and to see what horrors we have done and for 5 bucks why not?
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Why do you keep saying you ran bad fuel? I run e10 in every thing, and the octane you mentioned is fine for this engine.
 
Seandonato73 said:
Why do you keep saying you ran bad fuel? I run e10 in every thing, and the octane you mentioned is fine for this engine.
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I'll be perfectly honest: I dunno. I am just going on my super bad knowledge and advice from our local enthusiasts that we bash with. The problem was black splooge and it was reduced immensely when we switched from 3 week old 10% ethanol 89 octane to freshly mixed shell v-power no ethanol 91 octane.

Maybe it's just placebo effect but I don't think so and even my shoe maker friend who fixes his trucks with duct tape and tie wire agreed that higher octane-no ethanol petrol was a must. Considering his general fly by night attitude but insistence on specific petrol I figure it is important.

On a simple chemical level it makes sense: ethanol evaporates quickly. So does gasoline. Older mixes end up having a much higher amount of oil in them due to evaporation of petrol and ethanol.

Mixing so much fuel with such contaminants as ethanol so early and not using it quickly enough resulted in the super oil rich condition which I imagine gunked the plug and is causing the black junk coming out the exhaust.


Anyways. This is the story I am telling myself so I can pretend everything is fine and it is informing future decisions about what gas to use and how long to store it and so on.


I am here to be told I am wrong. That is literally the purpose of me being on this forum. I want all the information. I am self aware and know I know nothing. We'll continue to run and learn hard lessons but I share them here so we can learn from other's mistakes and successes.

Given what I have shared about our truck what do you suppose is the cause of the black splooge, is it a concern and what steps would you take to diagnose or remedy?
 
Honestly I run true fuel just because I can't stand the smell of gas. Plus I bring my stuff inside the house so atleast I'm inadvertently staying away from ethanol
Bizzer said:
@Freelander, hate to burst your bubble, but as of 2022 all pump gas in Canada has ethanol in it. They just haven’t updated all the stickers on the pumpView attachment 84345,
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Freelander said:
Given what I have shared about our truck what do you suppose is the cause of the black splooge, is it a concern and what steps would you take to diagnose or remedy?
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Sean pretty much outlined this. The black splooge is the result of running rich either in your oil/fuel mix, air fuel ratio of your tuning on the carburetor or a combination of both. If you are confident in your oil fuel ratio it must be your carb tuning.

If you are mixing 25 to 1 and adding a little extra oil just to be safe don’t!
 
Rep732 said:
Nope it's an "engineered" fuel. Smells like acetone kinda and the smell dissipates fast
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Its alkyd fuel. It's "engineered" to the same extent any fuel is. It's closer to av gas, just without the lead content. The engeneered moniker is mostly a sales gimmick. It's a more refined and higher quality fuel.
Freelander said:
I'll be perfectly honest: I dunno. I am just going on my super bad knowledge and advice from our local enthusiasts that we bash with. The problem was black splooge and it was reduced immensely when we switched from 3 week old 10% ethanol 89 octane to freshly mixed shell v-power no ethanol 91 octane.

Maybe it's just placebo effect but I don't think so and even my shoe maker friend who fixes his trucks with duct tape and tie wire agreed that higher octane-no ethanol petrol was a must. Considering his general fly by night attitude but insistence on specific petrol I figure it is important.

On a simple chemical level it makes sense: ethanol evaporates quickly. So does gasoline. Older mixes end up having a much higher amount of oil in them due to evaporation of petrol and ethanol.

Mixing so much fuel with such contaminants as ethanol so early and not using it quickly enough resulted in the super oil rich condition which I imagine gunked the plug and is causing the black junk coming out the exhaust.


Anyways. This is the story I am telling myself so I can pretend everything is fine and it is informing future decisions about what gas to use and how long to store it and so on.


I am here to be told I am wrong. That is literally the purpose of me being on this forum. I want all the information. I am self aware and know I know nothing. We'll continue to run and learn hard lessons but I share them here so we can learn from other's mistakes and successes.

Given what I have shared about our truck what do you suppose is the cause of the black splooge, is it a concern and what steps would you take to diagnose or remedy?
Click to expand...
Without having the old fuel tested it's impossible to know it was bad with your level of experience. No offence, meant but I burn through a lot of gas, so I store a lot of gas. Whats running in my equipment now is pump high test e10 that's roughly a month old at this point. This past weekend, i ran roughly 2 gallons of this same gas through 2 of ny saws with no ill effects. Non vented metal cans, and fuel stabilizers keep the fuel fresh for a very long time.
The switch from 89 to 91 is so marginal in stock engines it truly doesn't matter. The octane rating is strictly a anti knock rating and has little else to do with the fuels performance.
The simple idea is you could have just gotten a bad batch of gas, but this is all conjecture since we're not there. we don't really know what's going on, and we all understand your going through a steep learning curve. I'll assume you don't go through gas like I do, so I would suggest a small fuel can, stored in a temperature controlled environment. I would also reccomend the addition of a fuel stabilizer. This will aid in preventing issues.
 
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Solid! Thanks, fellas
Despite my having swallowed a Canadian myth I still feel 100 percent more confident about the oil/gas mix we're now using. I am picking up a plug this afternoon. I can probably start to fiddle with the carb a bit now. We've probably run 4 or 5 tanks by this point.
 
Do we need any after run oil in gas engines?

I’m using True Fuel and I like it very much. Clean and no smell isues. Did I say no smell issues?
 
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