Best Petrol RC for bashing

[Trip]

HI Dc2 Man,

I am not joking, andno I never replaced servos as I always use decent ones in first place. And before you say they come RTR, there is no such thing as FG RTR, the UL Importer put the radio in themselves.

I have currently cut mu collection down 2 4 FGs and have been running them for years.

The big trick to make sure they do NOT cost a fortune in repairs is simple 10 minutes (some time longer) checking the whole vehicle out at the end of the day.

As for using it just for a hour, you are joking when it would go out for a bash or thrash I would get through around a gallon (sometimes 2) in a weekend because I loved the Truck so much and it was so strong.

After running my Mardar and asking around I learnt how to set these up so they could take the poundings without costings a fortune.

Upper wishbones, not a problem, lower wishbones hold together fine and NEVER had a problem with wheel bearings as I keep them oiled with a good qualitity teflon oil after every use and they get soaked in oil after a wet run.

As for penny washers costing £30.00 - never, I go to my local nut and bolt shop. 100 for £5.00 and that is enough to do loads of 5ths, infact I have only every bought them once.

Now if you are saying I am a lucky person then thankyou, I do not want to annoy anyone, I just thought I would help by putting my personall experience forward. I understand everyone is different but for me perosnally I find FGs very strong and cheap to keep going (especially with the crashes I have).

Anyway off to another Race to see if I can keep the MCD together :no::helpsmilie:

I agree, I have had my M/T for 3 years and all I have ever broken was the rear diff housing that cost me a whopping $50. (I don't even think it was that much) If you take care of your stuff it will last forever, but if you beat the piss out of it, never fix what's wrong and you just mickey mouse it back together, it will break all the time and make you look like a tool! (WOW that was a long sentence!)

 

[PlymouthRC]

Hi DC,

That is ok, and I agree with you the Alloy Looks great and does build a good car. I suppose I was luck as I started in the RC scene when I was 4 so learnt to look after by vehicles and maintanence, espeically as my first experience was in th petrol scene and worked back to nitro over the year.

And Trip you are right that was a long sentence.

Right I am off to do some repairs after racing today, MCD held together fine (and won the day) but blew both diff is on my twin .15 nitro :helpsmilie:

 

[rc_mad]

plymouth RC ive seen that picture soo many times of your monster looks awesome :cool2:


and i think i will be fine with the FG monster as when i used to have FG's only problems i had was with the engine moving but mainly down to having engine troubles and had to take the thing out a few times :no:

but with Alloy engine mounts and locktite shoud be fine :cool2:


i have put my current RC car and heli on ebay so if all goes well will have my monster within the month!

cant fooking wait :blush:


Cheers for help guys! and i will post pictures when i get it

pray to ebay gods it sells h34r:

 

[dc2 man]

I agree, I have had my M/T for 3 years and all I have ever broken was the rear diff housing that cost me a whopping $50. (I don't even think it was that much) If you take care of your stuff it will last forever, but if you beat the piss out of it, never fix what's wrong and you just mickey mouse it back together, it will break all the time and make you look like a tool! (WOW that was a long sentence!)

well trip you have to actually have to run the machines to know what kind of trouble they are going to give they aint going to break thrown there in the shed.....lol

cmon and give us a few vids till we see if you guys are telling the truth,give us at least three vids in the week like i do and we will see how relibale your machines are......
huh???
:2guns::lol::lol::lol:

 

[Trip]

Blow me!!! LOL I have 13 inches (.3 meters for you metric guys) of snow on the ground!!! I can't do poop in the snow!! When the poop melts, I will post some vids... Until then I will just laugh at yours!!! I'm just messin' with you DC... But my truck does have brakes lol!!

Trip..

This was all meant as a joke, so don't get too bent out of shape!!!

 

[PlymouthRC]

There is a great little mod to do to the standard plastic engine mounts to stop them moving and it costs pence, but you have to o it when the mounts are new.

The 2 screws that are at the back of the "L" engine mount (one top, one bottom) - take them out and drill the hole deeper with a 2 mm drill bit. Then replace with new longer screws (I think it is 8 x 3/4 I use). Because of the extra length you can get them tight and as a result less likely to come undone. End result no slipping of the engine and damaging the Layshaft pinion that runs onto the Diff.

I hope this helps someone to save a little money (and I hope I have not just repeated this mod because someone else has already said about it).