better track handling

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Royal Male

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evening,

I'm planning on 'trying' to get my marder round the new Sussex bashers track soon so I need to improve handling and I read on an old post by by Dwarfy that balloon springs on the rear and sway bar up front can help?

anyone tried that combo or suggest alternative?

and don't worry I'm not delusional....I don't expect to keep up with the 5ive boys. :cup-3:

cheers
 
This may help.


Front

Toe out between 5mm & 8mm

17mm square drive blocks with these axles http://rc-car-online-shop.de/shop/en/pr ... 1pce-.html
for maximum width

3000wt oil in the shocks

Rear

Toe in 3 degrees
Camber 3 degrees pushed down
2000wt oil in the shocks

For anti squat put 2 washers between the chassis and the forward lower ball joint.

14mm square drive blocks for maximum width.

keep the chassis level by altering the ride height on the shockers with the adjuster screws or clips. The rear wishbone should be level with the bench at rest.

Droop. Sit the car on a box or stand so all 4 wheels are off the bench and all the suspention is free to move. Mount the shockers on the lower mount only. Adjust the front droop screw so that the shock JUST slides on the top mounting bolt with little or no compression. The rears can be done like this but more likely will have to be done so the angle isn't so servere that the drive shafts bind up.
 
i run a front anti roll bar stock springs at the mo on the fg 20mm shocks and hpi 25wt oil in the rears and 35wt in the fronts but even then its a bit hit and miss in the corners and most the time comes out of the turn on its roof

check out fg-info.co.uk theres a good setup guide on there by mike and its what i run with a few changes here and there but worth a look
 
You need to get a 4wd kit mate!! They totally transform the handling so you don't need to worry about corners just launch it in & it will go round like its on rails!! You will give the 5ive boys something to think about then :D

I used the settings Mike suggests for my 2wd but have kept the front anti roll bar on as it seems to be better for me and my driving style. People say have / don't have but I reckon its best if you try it out for yourself cos its only a 2min job to take it off in the field and you may find it works for you. If not stick it on ebay & somebody will snap it up Im sure!

What tyres are you running? The marder stock spikes are very grippy on soft grass and the fronts can dig in on the corners and flip you over quite easily so make sure you are slow in and then you can be fast out.
 
cheers peeps,

what about the balloon springs on the rear Dwarfy? you still run them?

Also I guy on MSUK wants an offer on front swaybar...any idea? Also are there two thicknesses of bars?

ta V much
 
Yeah the balloon springs on the back seem to work well. I didnt get them for the front on advise from rossmods - they talked themselves out of a sale cos they felt it was right for my car. Are you on std shocks or ally? The ally shocks make a big difference to the handling and if you don't have these I would consider them for your next upgrade.

If your radio tray is plastic you can add an extra post to stiffen it up to help with servo performance under breaking.

The marder anti roll bar is 3mm and is about £14 new from rossmods. The MT bar is 4mm and the same price. I would offer him £5 for it and take it from there.
 
dwarfy said:
Yeah the balloon springs on the back seem to work well. I didnt get them for the front on advise from rossmods - they talked themselves out of a sale cos they felt it was right for my car. Are you on std shocks or ally? The ally shocks make a big difference to the handling and if you don't have these I would consider them for your next upgrade.

If your radio tray is plastic you can add an extra post to stiffen it up to help with servo performance under breaking.

The marder anti roll bar is 3mm and is about £14 new from rossmods. The MT bar is 4mm and the same price. I would offer him £5 for it and take it from there.
Click to expand...

dwarfy i thought that the smaller bar was 4mm and the other was 5mm 3mm seems a bit thin mate
 
well blow me you learn something new every day i never knew that mate

i may have to get a 3mm one for the bugs front as the 4mm seems a bit stiff
 
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thats what i use on my marder, medium squares on the back and large on the front, i think i have the 65mm front axels, ive still got alot of thread on the axel so put another bearing between the hub and wheels square .i get another 2cm width on the front from the 2 bearings but just for bashing also use the wider fg baja wheels on the back so overall width wider.
to be honest ive tried a few things on the marder but still grip rolls,the issue is the width and the suspension, i have a setup that will be better.
front shock tower change to fg monster truck, and there is a wider ,taller rear suspension tower too so longer suspension is used , i knpow some who is using aftermarket hpio baja suspension,ive only seen one person do this.
i tried my elcon front shocks on the rear of my fg the other day and it could actually lean they felt independant as should be lol.
heres a video oof the setup on a electric marder, i think all the toe out and stuff helps alot but still limited.
just to let you know this is just an idea what may help you, i have no racing experience or track use with the fg marder have only bashed it but even then the handling was still an issue
pause it at 37 secs and check this guys set up, much better than stock.
 
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dwarthy , thats the only put off the sound of a motor plus you hear all the crap happening as theres no noise of a pipe. !!! they do have instant power and all but i like my petrol engines, you don't nessesarly need electric to get your fg flying and the sound of a tuned pipe is unbeatable on wot. i thought it would have a great power to weight ratio but he told me its heavy,waiting for reply on the actual weight.my fg baja weighs 10 kilo without fuel, km baja is just over 10.5kg and hormann 11kg.
im getting my mates front and rear arms off his xtm as hes upgraded to fg alloy item,the xtm arms are wider so will give more width at the moment the fg front width from outside tyres is 44cm with large wheel squares a extra bearings running stock marder wheels.( im now advising to use the bearings between the hub and square as its just somethinmg ive done to get more width and seems to work but i guess it would put more stress on the hub and bearings in the hub but mine have been fine fior the last few months ive used them.
i actually have a set of 24mm wheels squares off a stock car marder.
https://www.largescaleforums.com/album.php?albumid=168&pictureid=1731
 
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nice one hyper going to give the extra bearing on the front of mine a try and see if it helps but not sure if it will fit due to hpi adapters watch this space
 
but i did manage to fit some 17mm squares and the adapters so now the front is 17mm wider each side not sure if its going to work but the front of mine was very narrow compared to the rear but now the front wheels line up with the rears hopefully this will workout great and help with the turning and maybe a few less grip rolls???? we will see



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I've put 17mm squares front & back wiv the fg baja rear wheels on
Front & back it handles well. better than before and it don't roll over
Wen I turn going fast so well happy about that... I'll try and put pictures
Up as well so all can see
 
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