Carson c5 looks like it needs some attention

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Lonie1992

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Hey guys I'm new here, I come from a bashing background however in the past 3 years have been racing 8th Scale buggies in both nitro and brushless classes, this is my second 5th scale car my first a KM 26cc baja unfortunately met a rather nasty end after sending it full pelt off a skate park ramp and it was caught on film haha if I can I'll try find the video. So I received this carson c5 in the post a few days ago all looked OK at first glance so I took it out for a run to find that the bearing that supports the layshaft (the bearing next to the diff drive gear) keeps popping out of the plastic housing causing the layshaft to move a little under load and come out of mesh with the diff. After stripping it down I couldn't find any faults with it other than it just won't stay in there so for now I have just shimmed it up tight so I can't come out but would like to know if anyone has had a similar issue and if so is there a better fix? I'm hoping to turn this into a drift car/car park racer so does anyone have any must have upgrades to this? I would also like to add a tuned pipe however with the engine layer down like it is there is next to no room for the pipe so what are my options here? Next on the list is the engine, im sure the standard cy 23cc can put some power down bt as this is a drift build should I be looking at a ported 26cc? What are my gearing options? And final question, where would I get a clear body shell for this as I would like to paint my own, perhaps a classic BMW? Thanks for the help
Leo

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renbar said:
check out my build mate might help you out mines a drift toy also with a unique classic bmw bodyshell

also quite a few fg parts can be made to fit your c5 so great options out there for future

https://www.largescaleforums.com/threads/my-new-toy.15314/
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Your thread is actually the one that brought me to the forum, that is needed seriously nice car, im not really planning to go full alloy mainly as my wallet won't allow it haha my plans so far are a set of hydro brakes for the front as the cable brakes aren't up to much, a new engine probably a 26cc and some new servos as the steering g servo really seems slow and gutless I've seen some people running up to 4 servos in there, what's the purpose of that I understand having a separate one for throttle and brake as you then have independent braking and less stress on the throttle servo but what advantage does running dual steering servos gain? Do you have any idea what parts I can use on this? Like do the fg marder bits fit? As it seems sportsline parts are hard to come by aswell as the c5 parts?
Thanks
Leo
 
I haven't found sportsline parts hard to come by. As for dual steering servos. You generally see them on the higher end racing cars that require more steering power. Don't quote me on that though lol I do think that if your just bashing that a good quality 1/4 scale servo should be fine. Just make sure you read the servo specs as the stronger the better and dimensions are correct. There are 2 sizes of quarter scale servos as the outside dimensions go
 
Well I got sick of waiting for the money for some hydro brakes so in the mean time I've added an ally plate to the top of the shock towers to stop them flexing under braking and so I could remount t the brakes with some better bits to allow slightly more adjusting so they lock up a hit better, they still aren't great but it's better than they were20160218_111447.jpg were
 
if you look on ebay you can find hydro disc's there 69mm tiny bit larger than the cable disc's just take the calipers off fit 69mm disc space out the calipers with a couple of washers on mounting bolts to hub this works very well I used this setup on both my cars before fitting hydros and its cheap

if your handy with hands then id think about getting some alloy or carbon and make a new radio tray be much stiffer plus you can use the standard sized servos I use savox 16.5kg @£30 each I'm using them in both cars boat ect id have one for front brakes then another for rear/throttle and id use 2 for the steering I'm planning this for mine next a similar mod to the fg f1 car ive just done

as for fg alloy parts again if your good with modding things then most parts even from the evos can be made to fit and had cheap on ebay

another thing id highly recommend is a kill switch

engine wise if you want it for bashing/drifting/car park races ect cheapest option for you is 26/29cc head kit or bin off your 23cc cy and get a Zenoah 290 great engine even in stock form ported there even better check out my bug,,but beware to much power in the on roads just makes them a handful they mostly run 23cc because they rev like mad ive run 23cc and 29cc modded engines in mine and nothing beats the 23cc

for drifting you want a fg adjustable diff then you can lock to @90% fit some hard compound tyres on rear and have fun
 
Got it out again today for the first run after the brake mods and it's much better, spent about 20 minutes before I went out adjusting the cables getting it in that sweet spot where it doesn't rub at neutral and locks up decently at full brake, it's much better turning in now as the weight transferes forward better seems to slide well if you give it a quick flick the opposite way and then get the power down but I feel like the diff is fighting me trying to grip I don't know if it needs to be fully locked because with it being RWD it would really affect launch and be just difficult to drive I've heard these diffs aren't fully sealed so normal diff fluid won't work, maybe I'll try packing it with grease and see what that does.
 
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renbar said:
if you look on ebay you can find hydro disc's there 69mm tiny bit larger than the cable disc's just take the calipers off fit 69mm disc space out the calipers with a couple of washers on mounting bolts to hub this works very well I used this setup on both my cars before fitting hydros and its cheap

if your handy with hands then id think about getting some alloy or carbon and make a new radio tray be much stiffer plus you can use the standard sized servos I use savox 16.5kg @£30 each I'm using them in both cars boat ect id have one for front brakes then another for rear/throttle and id use 2 for the steering I'm planning this for mine next a similar mod to the fg f1 car ive just done

as for fg alloy parts again if your good with modding things then most parts even from the evos can be made to fit and had cheap on ebay

another thing id highly recommend is a kill switch

engine wise if you want it for bashing/drifting/car park races ect cheapest option for you is 26/29cc head kit or bin off your 23cc cy and get a Zenoah 290 great engine even in stock form ported there even better check out my bug,,but beware to much power in the on roads just makes them a handful they mostly run 23cc because they rev like mad ive run 23cc and 29cc modded engines in mine and nothing beats the 23cc

for drifting you want a fg adjustable diff then you can lock to @90% fit some hard compound tyres on rear and have fun
Click to expand...

Do you happen to know if this diff would fit?Screenshot_2016-02-25-12-25-14.png
 
Just make sure the ring gear has the right number of teeth for the the layshaft gear. If not, it's as easy as switching either one to a different gear.
 
Well I managed to get the car out today after replacing the layshaft gear and once again it is slipping and chewed another gear! I don't get it this is after I milled the plate to allow a better mesh and it was better than it was but at half throttle it starts slipping but when under no load (holding the back wheels off the floor) it revs all the way up perfectly can anyone shed some light on this as I don't want to replace the layshaft gear again for it to chew up again
 
You may not want to hear this but it very well can be the plastic mounting points in the drivetrain. Plastic flexes more under strain than aluminum. I had this issue in an Fg monster Beatle. Without load it's fine. Heard grinding under load, but looked everywhere and found nothing. It's the plastic. Also, is there any grinding of gears when you apply the brakes? If so, your cable brakes might be flexing the chassis just enough for grinding gears. Food for thought.
 
myrcbud said:
You may not want to hear this but it very well can be the plastic mounting points in the drivetrain. Plastic flexes more under strain than aluminum. I had this issue in an Fg monster Beatle. Without load it's fine. Heard grinding under load, but looked everywhere and found nothing. It's the plastic. Also, is there any grinding of gears when you apply the brakes? If so, your cable brakes might be flexing the chassis just enough for grinding gears. Food for thought.
Click to expand...

It's as I thought then new alloy engine mounts and new bearings I was hoping to avoid replacing them just now as the wallet looks unhealthy but I suppose it's a must. Looking at the mount it does look a little twisted, well I guess it can go up on the shelf for a week or two

.
 
Screenshot_2016-03-07-12-29-23.png Screenshot_2016-03-07-12-29-15.png
myrcbud said:
You may not want to hear this but it very well can be the plastic mounting points in the drivetrain. Plastic flexes more under strain than aluminum. I had this issue in an Fg monster Beatle. Without load it's fine. Heard grinding under load, but looked everywhere and found nothing. It's the plastic. Also, is there any grinding of gears when you apply the brakes? If so, your cable brakes might be flexing the chassis just enough for grinding gears. Food for thought.
Click to expand...

Do you know if this would work? Seller says it's off an Fg evo all looks the same but better quality but it has everything g I need, bearings layshaft and layshaft gear
 
Ordered the gear carrier and mount on Friday but there was some mix up in the posting so now it willbe here Wednesday
Seems to have one of them quick release engine mounts, anyone got a picture of how they mount never used one haha. Hopefully be back to the car park soon
 
Hey guys, so the new gear carrier/mount came today but I'm at a loss on how to fit it, I'm guessing the little ring thing replaces my current clutch housing and is seems to fit but I have no idea how it bolts in, it has 4 bold holes that match up with yhe holes for the clutch housing but there is no space to get a bolt in as the whole thing is so shallow, do I need special bolts for it or somthing? The part in question is pictured 1458132747553594191486.jpg
 
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