Center diff DBXL….

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When you say pins… are we talking about the small pins that sit in the diff cup? Or the entire cvd? Mine was spitting cvd’s the other day for zero reason.
 
The drive pins in the cv shafts. They are notorious for coming out. If you are kicking the entire shaft out of the diff to wheel area, your droop setting is too low. If your loosing the center cv shafts you got issues. Never once experienced that. I do have a theory though. A lot of the guys that complained about chassis flex had newer models then I did. As of this point and time I think it was 6 years old, and I bought it used from the original owner. My thought is losi cheapened up the chassis plate and made it thinner. It's pure speculation on my part, but the only thing I can think of. I only got alloy chassis braces with my last rebuild when my center diff holder broke after a nasty cartwheel and a few tumbles. It actually broke the bolt holding the pinion on the clutch. Funny thing is the center cv's were still in place. Never popped out.
 
The drive pins in the cv shafts. They are notorious for coming out. If you are kicking the entire shaft out of the diff to wheel area, your droop setting is too low. If your loosing the center cv shafts you got issues. Never once experienced that. I do have a theory though. A lot of the guys that complained about chassis flex had newer models then I did. As of this point and time I think it was 6 years old, and I bought it used from the original owner. My thought is losi cheapened up the chassis plate and made it thinner. It's pure speculation on my part, but the only thing I can think of. I only got alloy chassis braces with my last rebuild when my center diff holder broke after a nasty cartwheel and a few tumbles. It actually broke the bolt holding the pinion on the clutch. Funny thing is the center cv's were still in place. Never popped out.
I put some calipers on mine and the chassis thickness looks to be 4.13mm. I bought mine used so I have no idea how old it is.
 
The 1.0 is the same the 2.0 is different. They purpose built the 2.0 to be stronger over the 1.0 platform. I think the chassis is a bit thicker as well. I'm still waiting to hear is anyone has any real feedback on the new shocks on them. Not too many people race or jump them or they have no idea what they are talking about. Supposedly they were changed and use normal weight shock fluid. Other then that they don't share much in common. I think there is some compatable parts in between the two but don't know what can swap from one to the other without looking up part numbers.
 
I raced both the 2.0 and 1.0 this past weekend. Both with stock shocks. My 1.0 shocks lost most of its fluid which actually made the truck feel DIALED on the track. The 2.0 felt squirrelly. I need to take them apart.
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They spit pins habitually. Flm shafts solved that issue. I'm not understanding the chassis flex. I've heard another guy say he had issues as well, but never once had any reason to believe the chassis was flexing. I jumped it alot should have been pretty apparent if that was a weak area. Do you have alloy chassis braces?
i do not have alloy braces.

I like to put my stock vehicle on the race track. give it a solid few runs (aka shake down runs), and determine what is working and what is not working.
this is how I found out I need alum diff cups.

as far as droop; it was spitting dog bones going down the straight; no crashing, no jumping, just high speed down the straight.

I can take my chassis and twist it a tad. alum diff braces are a must. I will upgrade this and see and see how it fares. Instead of a alum diff case and alum bulkhead; I went with a total enclose front rear diff case with larger bearings. cost a bit but should hold up.

another for power; I used to buy big horse power engines but no longer believe in them. I went with a Zenoah 29.

the stock 23 is a nice engine, just doesn't have enough torque or top end for racing.
 
I ran a ported g320. Never impressed with the smaller engines. "Big hp" is relative and I don't belive for a second half the guys claims. If it's working well for you keep at it. Half the battle is set up and getting the power to the ground in a controlled manner. Keep good notes on what you change.
 
What about maybe something like a esp g320 or g340… I hear the dbxl drivetrain is weak?
I can’t see it being weak if they used the same stuff in the mtxl… huge heavy tires and a 29… I see botawhatever uses a 9.4 reed in his
 
The dbxl and mtxl are literally 80% the same. One is no weaker then the other. The mtxl has a stupid low gearing set up from factory. Neither is weaker or stringer then the other and both hold g320 power just fine.
 
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