Dave's baja story..

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Hi Brothers ! always after each ride! how to solve that ? it the bearings are good. I always have to disassemble and clean it. it doesn't matter if I drive for 5 minutes or an hour ..
I always put a little Vaseline on the inside of the bearings or on the clutch bell axle . it goes well before driving. until I start ride
I bet it slows my baja down a bit
 
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John Parks said:
Are the bearings shot or is the gear mesh just not great?
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I don't understand exactly what you mean. the bearings are almost new. the transfer is in good condition. but the problem is only pinion as in this video. only the bearings are not original but I used the ones in the picture. but the clutch bell does about not appear to rotate along with the bearing just rotating only in the bearing bore. the bearings are quite rigid .

but when the bearings heat up it probably rotates as it should. I do not know
 

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Hello everyone . so I'm back with a problem. problem with 340 reed ss continuing. the engine starts very badly when cold. when engine is warm so it starts on the first pull. he didn't start today at all. the spark plug is new. throws a spark. gasoline goes into the carburetor. what else should i try? can i try to exchange 1242 for my old 990 and see what it does .. what else could be wrong? thx
 
everything looks fine. so I don't know where the mistake is. the only thing that occurred to me. I wave dirt around this seal. so only that there would be an leak . if replacing the carburetor with a 990 does not help. I'll probably send the engine to the United States for inspection
I started with problems over the weekend. and then he drives quite well (although in my opinion it could be better).
. when the engine it's warm, it's no problem to start .but now it doesn't start at all ..
 

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think gasoline not goes in the cylinder. because even after 30 pulls, the spark plug is clean and dry.it should not be wet ?:unsure:
 
nothing works. completely dead engine. it always works when I change the spark plug. it lasts one ride. and then no longer starts. only that I would buy some Chinese CRM7H :unsure: :D . I don't like the fuel system. I see air bubbles in the yellow hose . how do I check if the tank is venting ?
 
Check your fuel lines for splits, also check your clunk filter is still attached.
Pull the pull start a few times, then open the tank, if it hisses as you open it then its not venting.
As for needing to change the plug each start up you may be fouling the plug from being rich.
I had a nearly dead plug once that would only start the engine after the plug had been pre heated with a blowtorch, new plug solved that issue.
Think a lot of folk only run the NGK CMR7H plugs after issues with cheap versions.

This engine had been very problematic for you from the start hasn't it.
 
when I opened, the tank didn't hisse . but when I pump the carb , in the yellow hose it returns to the tank. I don't know if it's ok. can't it be a gasket under the head? once i opened the engine i used the old one. it looked like this, but the oil did not leak . I had no problem starting at the beginning. when he was new he started on 2 pulls . I think the problems started when I opened the engine, cleaned the tank or bought new spark plugs. I do not know exactly . I can still try to mount the old engine. if it starts then there will be a fault in the new engine. if not, I'll probably buy a new tank
 

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You never reuse old paper or graphite gaskets mate. But in truth I don't think that's your issue. You have a fuel issue or plug issue. The constantly throwing new plugs at it makes me think it's a rich run issue, but you should have flooded the crap out of it with the amount you tried to pull it over.
Now listen here.
Inspect your fuel lines.
You keep meantioning air bubbles in your yellow line. Is it the return or supply line? If they are small and not a steady stream I wouldn't nessisaraly get too excited.
I personally doubt it's a tank vent issue. Starting shouldnt be a problem, thats a starves for fuel and dies when running issue.
Next, take the carb apart and make sure everything is in good shape.
Screen is clear of debris.
Diaphragms are in good shape.
Impulse hole is free and clear.
Metering lever is set to the proper height.
You really need to get some tools together to pressure and vac test the engine.
 
if the spark plug throw a spark can't the ignition be faulty? . what if the engine shut-off switch is broken? because the engine is completely dead. no sign of running. I could try to replacing it out from the old engine .. I still thought of replacing the fuel filter. because gas tank has 4 years . I don't seem to have an air no leak. all seals around the carb are new. I tried 2 carburetors. so there is no error in them 🤔😭😬
 
Testing the spark plug with it out of the engine is pointless, the atmosphere inside the engine is totally different and makes it much harder for the plug to fire. I've been stumped by this in the past, and since will only test an ignition system with a proper ignition system tester. It loads the ignition system to simulate a working, loaded engine.
 
Seandonato73 said:
And you could have figured that out with a $5.00 ignition tester mate. Get some tools for diagnostics. Makes life much easier.
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you are right . Such a thing would suit me quite well. I wonder if it was just a broken engine switch. or if it were damaged, the engine would start but could not be turn off ? this it that thing for ignition testing?
 

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No do not buy that pos! Get one of these
Briggs and Stratton 84003327 Ignition Tester, Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07XD64QN3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2D0MYP1KH18RXJK47V23
Doesn't have to be this brand and there are several different types that are adjustable, but for the money it's years better then the stupid light. Not opama tester good, but sufficient.
The problem with the lights is they don't load the ignition system, same as firing the plug out of the engine. Does nothing for you. With an air gap model it forces the ignition system to work at its peak. So if there is any weak link it will not spark!
 
today I found out that the fault was not in the ignition :ROFLMAO::sneaky: It was only luck .I found out when I couldn't start the engine again today . I found that the engine starts only when the carburetor is at the base setting . How is it possible ? where will be the mistake? will I have to set the carb to base setting before each ride? that is not normally or? :unsure::sneaky:o_O
 
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