diff casing upgrades

Bryan K.

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230
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Richmond Hill, Ontario
Hey guys, have some extra cash to throw at this thing and I'm considering upgrading all the diff cases now. So are you guys just changing the "outer" diff cases/housing to aluminum or you're doing the inner diff cases as well? Exactly what fails on the stock plastic cases that need upgrading to aluminum? Is it the inner spider gears wearing the case or is it the outer cases bearings overheating then melting the outer case? This will be quite an expensive upgrade with the outer cases @ ~$150cdn and the inner cases x 3 @ ~$120cdn, I'm also doing the aluminum diff brackets at another $120cdn just because. Should I bother with the inner diff cases or just upgrade the outer ones? Is it necessary to upgrade the center diff housing?

thanks guys, just on my way to trying to bullet proof this buggy.
 

21bangbang

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Only failure ive had is the outer case. The bearings can get hot when failing and melt the plastic. Yet to have any issues with internal parts. If you get a bigger engine, thats when problems may start. Also you can use the dbxl-e inner cases if thats a cheaper option for you. They're aluminum.
 

John Parks

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Both eventually. Problem is they can warp and wear out, which in turn causes gear mesh to become lose and well you know what happens after that.

Also under decent power they can warp as well causing the same issues. Best to do the diff case and the housings
 

Seandonato73

Mr mono shock🤦‍♂️😭
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The diff case its self is the biggest issue. The housings last longer if your mindfull of them. If your upgrading and having it apart (and have the cash) I'd just do both. Ironically, I've only had one diff bite the dust, and never a housing. But as they go the next time I'll be doing what I suggested. At the time I had my diff issue I didnt know about the dbxl -e case being alloy. The internal gears are quite robust. I've not replaced a set ever, or had any wear issues, but I run some pretty thick diff fluid too.
 

Bryan K.

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230
Location
Richmond Hill, Ontario
Interesting that there seems to be different experiences with failure to both the inner an outer housings independently. I thought I could get away with just the outers, looks like I'll need both.

I've looked up the DBXL-E diff case and they sell for about $78 cdn. On Aliexpress, the GTB alloy case is only $40cdn. I could get 2 GTB's for the price of one of the Losi ones. I think I'll go for GTB. I've had good experiences with their other parts. What weight oils are you running on the center, front and rear diffs? I'm pretty happy with whatever oil came stock on mine.
 

21bangbang

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The posts from people with a DBXL seem to show they're fairly reliable stock. Not sure how long shaun has had his dbxl, but ive had mine years, and romped on it alot. Be mindful of your bearings and diff fluid and I bet they last a long time. I did just install a 29cc to replace the stock 23 so might be eating my words soon.
 

Seandonato73

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I've had mine going on 5 or 6 years now and bought it used. I've replaced one diff case. It cracked. haven't had to replace a housing yet. As most know I run a g320 in mine, so a bit more pep then the 23cc that comes with. I think right now I'm running 50 or 60k front and rear and 500k I the center.
 

Bryan K.

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Location
Richmond Hill, Ontario
I popped in a CY 30cc not too long ago, that's why I'd rather be safe than sorry. I've heard of all the damage a locked up diff can do. Might as well do it all at once to save myself having to pull it all apart again.

So I'm going for the GTB diff case for front, center and rear, GTB front and rear outer diff housings. then the FID front and rear diff brackets. That's pretty much the last of the metal upgrades I can do on it minus the A-Arms which will stay plastic. Will snap a pic of all the bling once it's all done.
 
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Only failure ive had is the outer case. The bearings can get hot when failing and melt the plastic. Yet to have any issues with internal parts. If you get a bigger engine, thats when problems may start. Also you can use the dbxl-e inner cases if thats a cheaper option for you. They're aluminum.
This! Just happened to me. Melted it! Now I gotta find parts. Hoping for LHS
 

Bryan K.

Well-Known Member
Messages
230
Location
Richmond Hill, Ontario
I just finished upgrading all of mine. I never had any of the problems of the diffs melting but I want to bullet proof my rig before it happens. I don't want to damage those expensive gears. Pretty much upgraded everything that holds a bearing to metal.

Something I should mention and people should be aware of is that if you're running metal diff housings with the metal diff brackets, you can no longer just slide the diffs out by only removing the sway bar mounts. You literally have to pull the whole front or rear end out and disassemble to the point where you can pull the diff brackets apart and off the shock mounts. This means, hinge pin braces, bumpers and the brackets. Pretty big pain the ass and IMO a design flaw. If you use the plastic bracket with the metal diff housing or a metal bracket with the plastic diff housing, then there are no issues. There is enough flex in the plastic to snap the housing out. Just can't do it with metal on metal, no room to flex. Just something I thought I'd mention since you'll lose the quick diff removal function.
 

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Seandonato73

Mr mono shock🤦‍♂️😭
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Yeah, don't plan on exchanging out the plastic mount for alloy. They are one of the few parts I've not had issues with. Tbh, I've only had 2 diffs go out, due to bearing issues. Next time I'll get the alloy diffs and be done with it.
@Bryan K. Thanks for the info. I always wondered if the metal on metal would be an issue.
 

Seandonato73

Mr mono shock🤦‍♂️😭
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That's about how mine looks, different colors all over, went for functional and cheap price. Fek the color.
 
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