dual servos?

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Trebor said:
the curved springs are a return so as not to overload the servos.....

they come with the brakes:clown:
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Good set-up as I said,but we are both engineers and i cant see those springs pulling those servo arms back? Are they just for decorative purposes or do they really work?
J.
 
voo2doo said:
Good set-up as I said,but we are both engineers and i cant see those springs pulling those servo arms back? Are they just for decorative purposes or do they really work?
J.
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You would think an in-line spring would be more effective but I suppose its swings & roundabouts. With an in-line the servo has to work harder to compress it in the 1st place but you would get a far better return action. With this set up the spring always wants to straighten out but it only take little effort from the servo to compress it over a shorter distance ie when braking.
 
dwarfy said:
You would think an in-line spring would be more effective but I suppose its swings & roundabouts. With an in-line the servo has to work harder to compress it in the 1st place but you would get a far better return action. With this set up the spring always wants to straighten out but it only take little effort from the servo to compress it over a shorter distance ie when braking.
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Hmm....They have to be high tensile with alot of poundage.That spring would have to double the strength of the servo gear to pull back??? I cant see it working but I'm a novice on this.Might be wrong.
J.
 
I think its designed more to assist the servo rather than work for it but looking at the springs again there will be more force in them than you would expect particularly in that arrangement. They are wound so that each coil sits on the next giving maximum effect for that application.
 
Trebor,
Looks like I can use the alloy plate I'm already using - has twin mount holes, and as the throttle / brake servo position is angled, it also looks like I can get the throw in without problem.
I've got the same 'horn' as you have. I'm using a Savox 1256TG, so force is not a problem.
I'm going to try out Hobbythek's 'direct power' cabling to see if there's any difference, particularly with the twin Rhino set-up.
I like the use of double collets. I've just gone down this avenue with my LST2 Raminator clone. I was fed-up of having more-than enough power, just for the collet to slip. Solved the problem immediately.
Wife's away for another day or so, with our lad (3 year old TOO inquisitive!!) which is permitting me to get some 'jobs' out of the way.
Alan.
 
atom3624 said:
Trebor,
Looks like I can use the alloy plate I'm already using - has twin mount holes, and as the throttle / brake servo position is angled, it also looks like I can get the throw in without problem.
I've got the same 'horn' as you have. I'm using a Savox 1256TG, so force is not a problem.
I'm going to try out Hobbythek's 'direct power' cabling to see if there's any difference, particularly with the twin Rhino set-up.
I like the use of double collets. I've just gone down this avenue with my LST2 Raminator clone. I was fed-up of having more-than enough power, just for the collet to slip. Solved the problem immediately.
Wife's away for another day or so, with our lad (3 year old TOO inquisitive!!) which is permitting me to get some 'jobs' out of the way.
Alan.
Click to expand...

good alan ...remember to keep the sevos as low as you can
 
Trebor said:
no but they need to be kept bled ....for what its worth... off road its easier

to maintain with cable brakes....but for looks the hydraulic are a must:clown:
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How do the hydro brakes compair to the cable.....they are much cheaper to buy but i don't want them if they don't work right.
 
K88MUD said:
How do the hydro brakes compair to the cable.....they are much cheaper to buy but i don't want them if they don't work right.
Click to expand...

both work fine ...i would not buy the hyd if they did not perform but

my marder has the fg tuning front cable...less to worry about:clown:

marderrebuilt003.webp
 
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