Engine revving up right after starting? Any tuning tips?

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Fstnd378

Well-Known Member
Messages
81
Hello, I've searched this question on google, but I couldn't find anything about it. I've disassembled this zenoah g260's cylinder head, to check if it's actually a 26cc because the engine sticker says g230šŸ„² so yes it is a 26cc cylinder. I've droven the FG monstertruck for 20min in my yard and everything looks fine, but the revs drop very low and the engine then likes to stall. I've tuned the low end needle a bit, but I thought it might be better to just ask it here. I still feel new to gasoline rc
 
Hello, I've searched this question on google, but I couldn't find anything about it. I've disassembled this zenoah g260's cylinder head, to check if it's actually a 26cc because the engine sticker says g230šŸ„² so yes it is a 26cc cylinder. I've droven the FG monstertruck for 20min in my yard and everything looks fine, but the revs drop very low and the engine then likes to stall. I've tuned the low end needle a bit, but I thought it might be better to just ask it here. I still feel new to gasoline rc
go back to stock carb settings mate, then get it running and set the idle with the silver idle screw on the carb, reset the end points for your throttle linkage, run it, adjust the idle screw if revs drop when hot, then go from there with tuning etc,
what i mean by the above is you may have set your throttle zero using the end points on the throttle servo and through your linkage,
once the engine heats up and things expand your idle drops cos the idles not set via the screw itself (y)
 
go back to stock carb settings mate, then get it running and set the idle with the silver idle screw on the carb, reset the end points for your throttle linkage, run it, adjust the idle screw if revs drop when hot, then go from there with tuning etc,
what i mean by the above is you may have set your throttle zero using the end points on the throttle servo and through your linkage,
once the engine heats up and things expand your idle drops cos the idles not set via the screw itself (y)
Thanks I'll try, but I gues I'll have to find out what carb I havešŸ¤·šŸ»ā€ā™‚ļø But the idle was actually set with the idle screw, it was on the max. Today I'll try again with the FG, and this time I'll touch the high speed needlešŸ‘ If it still won't work I'll look at my carb
 
Dude you need to really educate yourself on tuning and carbs. That set screw/idle screw should just be touching the throtte hammer.... Put everything to stock setting and start over with a new spark plug. Don't touch the high end until it's running and not dying. Your carb will have numbers on it, probably a wt668. You want to move the low end in incriments of 1/8-1/16th of a turn. Clockwise gives less fuel and counter clockwise more fuel. Less fuel will raise the idle and more will cause it to putter and stall. Put the idle screw a 1/8 turn past the point it just touches the hammer. Then get back to us.
 
Mm a maxed out idle screw is a sign of the carb not supplying enough fuel or the fact you have a major air leak. I agree with all of the above

Before anymore talk about carbs we need to know if you reused any gaskets and if so you need to throw them all out and put fresh gaskets on the engine then move on to the carb.
 
after re reading your original post, can you give a bit more info please?
all the above with what monster and rep and myself said, but did this 20 min run happen before or after your engine strip down?
how often have you run the engine,eg was this the first time you ran it, is the engine new or used, is the carbs bulb empty when the engine starts to die etc etc,
can you post a pic of the car with the engine in at least so we can see if anything jumps out as wrong with your car/engiine ,
 
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