Engine throwing flames

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Hey guys.. Finally changed the piston ring and fired the engine right away!! Had success in firing the engine easily.. but its not running as i would like.. the rpm is not stable.. Every time i blip the throttle the engine seems to bog a little and then over compensates.. at idle the rpm keeps fluctuating for about 30 seconds and then the engine stalls.. What could it be?? Please help..
I think i have found the problem.. I had just changed the piston ring and the leak is from the cylinder bolts and the exhaust gasket and the intake manifold.. all the areas are wet!! Guess its time to change all the gaskets..
Apologies.. Put both the posts together..
 
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I think I stated in another post (make sure you lap the block and head) for that exact reason.
Yes, the gasket takes up the slack of 0.1, but the head and block need to be lapped correctly to 0.01 to begin with.
I could point you to that post (I am pretty sure, you are not fellow, that asked question, on this.) I may be wrong on that.
I think that fellow was looking at a complete rebuild (if I remember correctly).

Let me know, if you need that post.

Best of luck to you.
BCR.
 
BCRstudio said:
I think I stated in another post (make sure you lap the block and head) for that exact reason.
Yes, the gasket takes up the slack of 0.1, but the head and block need to be lapped correctly to 0.01 to begin with.
I could point you to that post (I am pretty sure, you are not fellow, that asked question, on this.) I may be wrong on that.
I think that fellow was looking at a complete rebuild (if I remember correctly).

Let me know, if you need that post.

Best of luck to you.
BCR.
Click to expand...
Im sorry but what do you mean by block and head need to be lapped??
 
If I recall, you stated you were going to replace gasket (due to, ?? oil leak seapage (or the like).
Meaning just throwing another dasket would be nothing more than a Band-Aid (al most).
Correct way (and to rule out, issues of leakage, would be to lap.
(or simpler terms) to make 100% truly flat surface mating (without gasket) is on block and head.

Hope that helps.
 
BCRstudio said:
If I recall, you stated you were going to replace gasket (due to, ?? oil leak seapage (or the like).
Meaning just throwing another dasket would be nothing more than a Band-Aid (al most).
Correct way (and to rule out, issues of leakage, would be to lap.
(or simpler terms) to make 100% truly flat surface mating (without gasket) is on block and head.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Nah, never had to lap any of my engines, just throw a sparse amount of 518 on there instead if its leaking and don't dissasemble until it's rebuild time
 
My bad, it is something I use to do for a living (I guess they paid me, for do nothing)
Da,mn, wish it was that way.

But to each their own. It does mainly apply to engines with higher HP (hence like electrical spark, finds the weakest area, and creates the most havoc.
Hence, they are called (generally) blown head gasket(s) for that reason.
Again this is usually the case with engines, on a higher horsepower range.
(EDIT: But does apply to even smaller engines, as SAME thing can happen)

Note: I was just saying (CORRECT way to deal with issue. Not rigged, and or hillbilly way.
Again note = I DID NOT call anyone names, and if you thought it was directed to you, then you are sadly mistaken.
Again, I was just pointing the obvious. (and correct way).
 
Those composite base gaskets are good for taking up the miniscule amount of warp if there even is any "warpage" in the head or case so he's off his rocker again. And these engines don't have a feking head gasket 🤦‍♂️:LOL:.... I wouldn't advise taking any material off the cylinder or case as it can change the squish band in the cylinder. This isnt a high hp forum so your "knowledge" is irrelevant here as your implying what your saying is used directly for that application.

This was directed at bcr :rolleyes:
 
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