Exhaust vibrating loose

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MisterK71

Well-Known Member
Messages
124
Location
Peoria, AZ
New to the large scale cars, just got my Losi DBXL and installed a JetPro pipe, vibrated off the manifold twice and melted the silicone connector tube. Any advice as to how to stop the manifold from vibrating off? I am thinking about drilling holes in the allen screws and running safety wire between them around the manifold?? Appreciate any advice.
 
I have a DBXL w/jetpro silenced pipe....but do not have an issue w the header vibrating loose. Make sure you tighten the sh*t out the screws.
The holes in the screws w/wire between them will definitely work. Doing that with my 5ive.
If you don't want to drill the holes yourself, buy this kit. It works.
http://www.davesmotors.com/Bartolone-Racing-Pipe-Wire-Kit.html


Thanks Whoduh, figured there was a kit out there, was getting ready to whip out the vice and get to drilling. Appreciate the link.
 
Yes, DO NOT use high temp red locktite on your exhaust pipe. In the future you may want to change the pipe to get a different powerband so DO NOT red locktite the screws into an aluminum head!!
 
It's all I use. I've changed many pipes on several different engines. Never stripped or ruined any cylinder heads. You just have to use new bolts every change. Works great!
 
I've been in this hobby for 10 years. It's all I've ever used with zero problems. It's what it's made for...
 

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Maybe my experiences are different, but In my experience as a mechanic at a LHS many people come in with stripped heads that we have to ream drill out and tap new threads into it. What we always recommend for 1/5th scale racers/bashers is putting red gasket sealent on the threads of the bolts.
 
When you use red loctite don't put it on the entire thread. Just use one drop and wipe excess off of the tip of the bolt. Only about 3 or 4 mm of the tip of the bolt..use it sparingly.
 
And I'm just saying but most mechanics at hobby shops I've seen I wouldn't trust building Lego sets.
Hahaha. Funny you said that because I understand. Locally we have 3 hobbystores. We get so many people from a little ways away just come to our store for there vehicles to get fixed or assistance. I'm definitely not trying to be a jerk or get in a pissing contest. Just saying to be very careful with RED loctite. The wire trick should resolve the issue anyway.
 
You might want to check your tuning. Engine may be getting too hot if its melting the silicone tube.. Do you run outerwears on the pullstart and crankcase?
 
You might want to check your tuning. Engine may be getting too hot if its melting the silicone tube.. Do you run outerwears on the pullstart and crankcase?
I am not running Outerwears on the pullstart and crankcase, yet. Carb is still set at 11/2 &11/4 turn on the carb. Should I turn them out a bit? Was very careful with oil to fuel mix, do you think I need to turn them out a bit? Not 100% sure what I should be looking at for proper tuning, felt it safe to be at "factory" carb tuning.
 
Factory settings for break-in are way to rich.

This video will give you a good idea of what you are looking for...and how leaning or richening your carb can affect performance.

 
Also check your engine cooling fins and make sure there isn't any grass packed in there. That can cause your engine to overheat and seize very easy. Even when tuned correctly. Alot of times you can't even see it without removing the engine shroud. The flywheel acts as a fan that blows air over the cooling fins. This is why outerwears are very important on the pullstart and crankcase because this is where the cool air gets sucked into the engine. Small rocks can also get in easily there too and ruin your flywheel and coil...
 
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