FG Sportline 4WD Porsche (Steerrng\Brake servo Issues)

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pfrederi

Well-Known Member
Messages
91
Hello All I need help with my steering and throttle\brake servo issues. Ever since ive purchased this car (new) Ive had steering glitches and brake issues as well. I thought once i upgraded to a lipo system (batt and servos) it would go away. So i replaced the stock NiMh battery and servos and replaced with (SAVOX 0230MG) for Throttle\Brake and for the Steering a Spektrum S9020 (i know probably a lil overkill but i had it laying around so i used it).



BRAKES - (Savox 0230MG)
I didnt really see any improvement with the upgrade to the 2S lipo system and to the savox servo. As a matter of fact the same issues were pretty much still there. The stopping (brake) leaves a lot to be desired even after adjusting and readjusting the linkage. I need more braking power. The car takes about 15-20ft to stop and the front brakes does not evn seem to add to any of the braking. i think the majority of the braking comes from the single rear disc brake (90%). Ive wasted money on servos and they have not improved. Im not buying the expensive hydraulixc brake kit. I dnt believe the mechanical brake cable linkage system is that bad if done correctly. I just need to know how to do it correctly lol. A hobby store in my area said maybve i need to take the front brake cables and remove the cables and grease them so the travel thru the sleeves more freely. Ill try it but i really dnt see that as the problem.



STEERING - (Spektrum S9020)
The steering worked ok for a lil bit but still had glitches. I would be driving and it would seem to hesitate when i try to turn and at other times when i let off the turn knob it would still stay locked in a turn and vice versa. Just weird. I thought maybe it was something with the receiver connection but that all checked out ok. Batteries all ok. I just dnt know what to do next. Additionally the servo does not seem to be anchored securely. When i turn the steering knob i can see the servo rocking back and forth. Maybe because this servo has monster torque 1000oz or so i believe and those plastic mounts are not as adequate. theyre in tight as i can get them.




QUESTION
What can i do to get strong brakes w/o having to upgrade to the hydraulic system?? Do I need to upgrade to a stronger Throttle\Brake servo again?!! If so what servo do you recommend?

What is recommended for the steering servo issue? What servo is recommended, Hitec maybe? Also want can i do to secure the servo better? I see DDM has an Alloy RC Plate 4WD- fg66240 but im not sure if that fits my car.


Thanks for any help you can provide in advance.
 
As far as the brakes go, have you checked your end points? Make sure you have them set up for enough brake and throttle throw to stop the car and have full throttle pull.

For the steering sticking as you come out of turns, have you checked the bell crank linkage and steering knuckles to make sure everything moves free? If they don't move free without the servo horn/linkage detached, you would need to back a screw out a little to assure smooth free movement. Make sure you have loctite on the screws tho. Good luck!
 
crucialRC said:
As far as the brakes go, have you checked your end points? Make sure you have them set up for enough brake and throttle throw to stop the car and have full throttle pull.

For the steering sticking as you come out of turns, have you checked the bell crank linkage and steering knuckles to make sure everything moves free? If they don't move free without the servo horn/linkage detached, you would need to back a screw out a little to assure smooth free movement. Make sure you have loctite on the screws tho. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Hi there so few i did to my fg was i upgradeds to my fg the engine mounts were changed to the alloy ones (y) I read in a few places that the plastic mounts have flex. The fex is bad for two things wearing out spur gears and can effect the breaking. My fg is not on road but the rear section ( drive break diff) is the same, i have a monster beetle pro. The other thing i did was upgrade the beaks to these
51370
And for the break 97 to fit you have to add the alloy gear plate(y)
51371
I do not have the cable breaks so cant help with them but what i can say is my car stops pretty well ? i have left the stock break servo in although id like to upgraded (because i have upgrade addiction ????)but not for the lack of breaking.
As for the steering , i killed my stock servo in a small crash so i added a hiteck d840 @curcialRc said make sure without the servo connected make sure the it moves freely. I found on my car the turnbuckle bolts slightly touched the bulk head? so turnd the bolts around putting the in from underneath and cut the exsses off ? there is a bolt that gose through the alloy plate and then into the servo saver don't over tighten it it can cuase binding. i do not like the plastic steering servo mounts the suck? and i did buy the alloy servo tray but it dose not fit unless i drill my chassis ......i may still do this but as of now i still run the plastic ones. Hope that iv been some help.........keep us posted on your progress?
 
Hey Thanks Guys much appreciated for the info. i will try all that was recommended and come up with the best option for me.

dougstar I was looking at that same brake kit from ddm and the alloy gear plate but i think the alloy gear plate is for the 2WD model only. Ill research and see though. Ill definitely try the brake though. I need something to secure that steering servo though.


crucialRC i doublechecked my endpoints and theyre at 95% for both brake and throttle so i dnt think thats it. I leave the 5% so the servo doesn't bind but still has full travel. Ill still try and put at 100% and see though. Hope it will be that simple a fix.
 
pfrederi said:
dougstar I was looking at that same brake kit from ddm and the alloy gear plate but i think the alloy gear plate is for the 2WD model only. Ill research and see though. Ill definitely try the brake though. I need something to secure that steering servo though
Click to expand...
Is for both 2wd and 4wd here are some pics of mine(4wd) with the gear plate
51394
This is the stock plate5139551396513975139851399
 
dougstar MUCH APPRECIATED BRO!!!!

I wish more folks were that detailed and helpful on these forums. That answered my question perfectly/ Thanks again man!!!!

Thanks to both of you for responding!!!
 
Hello dougstar
do you know the part numbers for the bearings (3) that come on the clutch plate? I tried removing the ones from the old plastic one and thos lil suckers are difficult to get out and oi ended up damaging them. Guess i wont be running this for my holiday wkd.

Do you know where i can get the bearings and what the part numbers are? do they come seperate or do i have to get them as a whole set? i saw fast eddy has some bearings but i dnt know if those bearings come in that pack.

Thx
 
Hey bud I just want to point out that's not how you set end point adjustments. You need to set them so they don't bind and have as much travel as possible. They may not even be the same numbers for front/back or left /right. That could be some of your servo glitching issues pluse you may need 100% for brake and only 92% for throttle.
 
dougstar said:
So you got it sorted?
Click to expand...

Yessir. Thanks Much. I replaced the steering and brake servo and installed the aluminum clutch carrier with the poly brakes. Stops and steers like a champ now. That previous brake servo sacvox 0235 was crap (no power)


Since you seem to have the answers maybe you can help with a NEW problem lol.
My FG 4WD Sportline just locked up and would not move. Took it back home and disassembled. Nothings wrong with the clutch. I could not push it and it would not roll freely. Took the diffs out and looked at them nothing wrong that i could see but when i tried to move the gears with my fingers they would not seem to budge. The front diff moved a little bit. Ive rebuilt quite a few diffs but they were sealed diffs for 10th scale vehicles and the gears pop right in and move freely as they should. This seems to be something quite *diff*erent (pun intended). i managed to get the gears out to inspect them and theres nothing wrong with them. no damage or anything. I cleaned them up since i already had them out thinking it would be a breeze just to pop the gears back in and grease them up a bit. Was I in for a surprise. These things are a beast to try to get back in. Added to that the gear teeth are sharp and hard.

I tried couple different techniques. I tried somehow to hold all 4 gears aligned in a perfect square (impossible) to try to slide them all into the plastic diff housing at once but no dice. Then I tried assembling it by adding one gear at a time which was fine until that fourth and last gear. Impossible to fit in there. Im not sure how this thing was assembled. Now Ive got a car dissambled not knowing how to get the diffs reassembled to put the car back together. Maybe I should put this in its own post.
I figured you might know or someone might know of a way or some trick to get this thing back together.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Seandonato73 said:
Hey bud I just want to point out that's not how you set end point adjustments. You need to set them so they don't bind and have as much travel as possible. They may not even be the same numbers for front/back or left /right. That could be some of your servo glitching issues pluse you may need 100% for brake and only 92% for throttle.
Click to expand...


Ok Thx man. Ill keep that in mind.
 
Bloody neat trick you bugger (english accent) LOL!!

THANKS A BUNCH MAN!!!! THAT WORKED LIKE A CHARM!!!!!

Now to figure out why it locked up in the first place LOL!!!
 
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