FG Sportline 510 Porsche (Diff Issues)

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pfrederi

Well-Known Member
Messages
91
My FG 4WD Sportline just locked up and would not move. So I Took it back home and disassembled. Nothings wrong with the clutch. I could not push it and it would not roll freely. Took the diffs out and looked at them nothing wrong that i could see but when i tried to move the gears with my fingers they would not seem to budge. The front diff moved a little bit but still hard to move. Ive rebuilt quite a few diffs but they were sealed diffs for 10th scale vehicles and the gears pop right in and move freely as they should. This seems to be something quite *diff*erent (pun intended). i managed to get the gears out to inspect them and theres nothing wrong with them. no damage or anything. I cleaned them up since i already had them out thinking it would be a breeze just to pop the gears back in and grease them up a bit. Was I in for a surprise. These things are a beast to try to get back in. Added to that the gear teeth are sharp and hard.

I tried couple different techniques. I tried somehow to hold all 4 gears aligned in a perfect square (impossible) to try to slide them all into the plastic diff housing all at once but no dice. One always seems to move out of alignlment which throws the others off. Then I tried assembling it by adding one gear at a time which was fine until that fourth and last gear. Impossible to fit in there. Im not sure how this thing was assembled. Pluto has to be aligned with Mars it seems for this thing to go in. Now Ive got the car dissambled not knowing how to get the diffs reassembled to put the car back together.
If anyone can help or someone might know of a way or some trick to get this thing back together.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
ok here is how to fix your diffs(y)
so you have all the bits out like this you need the central pin plus one drive cup(y)
52062
put the gears together with the pin in the place ( it will hold the gears inline)(y)
52063
next slide the gears in to the diff as far as you can until the pin stops you(y)
52064
pull the pin out and push the gears in more(y) grab the drive cup
52065
now that the gears are sort of in place push the drive in and replace the pin(y)
52066
grease it all up and you good to go(y)as long as the pin stays in place the gears wont fall out(y)
52067
hope this helps let me know how you get on(y):cool:?
 
Last edited:
Bloody neat trick you bugger (english accent) LOL!!

THANKS A BUNCH MAN!!!! THAT WORKED LIKE A CHARM!!!!!

Now to figure out why it locked up in the first place LOL!!!
 
dougstar said:
Lol nice1 glad I could be of service???
Dose the belt move freely??
Click to expand...


No the belt does not move freely; Its not the belt though because when I removed the belt and the individual diffs and try to turn the gears they seemed locked. I could not spin them with my hand (the front diff gears moved a little but is very hard to move) and there was no noticeable damage. Weird. Im wondering if at high speed if the gear mesh somehow got off track and bind up. But again i didnt notice that when i looked at it before taking it apart. Im at a lost what caused that. i tried turning the drive cups by hand and could not turn the drive cups either. It bound up somehow

Im poss looking to get the diff conversion upgrade (metal) but im not sure what improvements i would get with that. And besides the gears will still be plastic mounted on a metal diff case.
 
pfrederi said:
My FG 4WD Sportline just locked up and would not move. So I Took it back home and disassembled. Nothings wrong with the clutch. I could not push it and it would not roll freely. Took the diffs out and looked at them nothing wrong that i could see but when i tried to move the gears with my fingers they would not seem to budge. The front diff moved a little bit but still hard to move. Ive rebuilt quite a few diffs but they were sealed diffs for 10th scale vehicles and the gears pop right in and move freely as they should. This seems to be something quite *diff*erent (pun intended). i managed to get the gears out to inspect them and theres nothing wrong with them. no damage or anything. I cleaned them up since i already had them out thinking it would be a breeze just to pop the gears back in and grease them up a bit. Was I in for a surprise. These things are a beast to try to get back in. Added to that the gear teeth are sharp and hard.

I tried couple different techniques. I tried somehow to hold all 4 gears aligned in a perfect square (impossible) to try to slide them all into the plastic diff housing all at once but no dice. One always seems to move out of alignlment which throws the others off. Then I tried assembling it by adding one gear at a time which was fine until that fourth and last gear. Impossible to fit in there. Im not sure how this thing was assembled. Pluto has to be aligned with Mars it seems for this thing to go in. Now Ive got the car dissambled not knowing how to get the diffs reassembled to put the car back together.
If anyone can help or someone might know of a way or some trick to get this thing back together.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Interesting dilemma. I've had occasion where the car won't move when you push it manually on the ground, and the problem turned out to be the brakes setting. There are times if you set the brake too tight, the car won't move. Okay, let's go to work fixing this.

If ALL of the diffs are free, and there are no bindings in the transmission right through to the pinion gear, then it may be the brakes. So, try this:

#1: Turn on your transmitter, turn on your car, but DO NOT fire up the engine.
#2: Squeeze the throttle trigger and push your model. If it moves, it's a clear indication that at neutral (no throttle-trigger input) the brakes are locked. By squeezing the trigger, the brake linkage releases and the car moves; release the trigger and the brakes are on. If the above us the case...
#3: adjust the brakes linkage so that it's not tight and the car rolls free.
#4: Test it: set the car on a grade and allow it to freewheel down it. Apply the brakes. If it stops, then you've fixed the problem.

AS FOR HOW TO PUT HUMPTY DUMPTY back together again, consult your manual. If you've lost it, you should be to find a copy online. Hope that works.

If it does, here's an old trick: Photograph any part BEFORE you disassemble. The picture will help when putting it back together.

While I'm at this let me share another tip: When you take apart anything on your car, replace the screws in the taken-apart unit. That way, you'll never lose track of what screws/bolts go where.

PEACE.
 
Harold Bascom said:
#1: Turn on your transmitter, turn on your car, but DO NOT fire up the engine.
#2: Squeeze the throttle trigger and push your model. If it moves, it's a clear indication that at neutral (no throttle-trigger input) the brakes are locked. By squeezing the trigger, the brake linkage releases and the car moves; release the trigger and the brakes are on. If the above us the case...
#3: adjust the brakes linkage so that it's not tight and the car rolls free.
#4: Test it: set the car on a grade and allow it to freewheel down it. Apply the brakes. If it stops, then you've fixed the probl
Click to expand...
+1?
 
Harold Bascom said:
Interesting dilemma. I've had occasion where the car won't move when you push it manually on the ground, and the problem turned out to be the brakes setting. There are times if you set the brake too tight, the car won't move. Okay, let's go to work fixing this.

If ALL of the diffs are free, and there are no bindings in the transmission right through to the pinion gear, then it may be the brakes. So, try this:

#1: Turn on your transmitter, turn on your car, but DO NOT fire up the engine.
#2: Squeeze the throttle trigger and push your model. If it moves, it's a clear indication that at neutral (no throttle-trigger input) the brakes are locked. By squeezing the trigger, the brake linkage releases and the car moves; release the trigger and the brakes are on. If the above us the case...
#3: adjust the brakes linkage so that it's not tight and the car rolls free.
#4: Test it: set the car on a grade and allow it to freewheel down it. Apply the brakes. If it stops, then you've fixed the problem.

AS FOR HOW TO PUT HUMPTY DUMPTY back together again, consult your manual. If you've lost it, you should be to find a copy online. Hope that works.

If it does, here's an old trick: Photograph any part BEFORE you disassemble. The picture will help when putting it back together.

While I'm at this let me share another tip: When you take apart anything on your car, replace the screws in the taken-apart unit. That way, you'll never lose track of what screws/bolts go where.

PEACE.
Click to expand...
Definitely good info and appreciate the input guys!! Although I dnt think its a brake or belt issue because i had the diffs removed from the car (which eliminates everything else) and tried to turn the gears by hand and the gears would not move. Strange. Anyways I disassembled both diffs cleaned and reassembled and greased. Car runs fine again. Im thinking maybe the gear mesh may have gotten off track and bound up somewhow. i dnt know just spitballin here. Its running again though.

On added note i want to upgrade the motor in my FG sportline 4WD. Couple questions:
- I plan to go big. Whats the biggest engine I can fit in this setup?? with or without modification. For example can i fit a 340 in there or is there a smaller ported engine that can fit with same power characteristics?

- Will i need to upgrade any other parts once i upgrade engine?? Like change diff to metal diff withReinforced diff gears etc?? or will stock work fine??

- Will i need to upgrade brakes to say the brake master cylinder kit or will stock suffice??

Just need a lil more info before i take the dive. Ive heard of folks that can get this bad boy up to 80+ MPH. Not sure how true that is but willing to try LOL!!!
 
Heres a couple pics of my FG. I was having trouble with my pc detecting my phone for a lil while now and am finally able to transfer my pics andd files to my pc.

Still waiting to hear from anyone as far as the engine upgrade fitment. I would rather a drop in with no major modification but if some mods are needed for a bgger engine i can work with it:)
 

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Seandonato73 said:
I would hazard a guess that it should be relatively trouble free with a g320 in it.
Click to expand...

Thanks.
Would that be a straight drop in or some modification or other parts needed to make it fit properly??
dougstar said:
Nice one Mate the rear looks so familiar??? looks like my monster beetle??
Did you sort your issues out?
Click to expand...

Thank U Sir
It seems to be fixed now. Just weird. On to the next task of upgrading to see speeds like my electric rc counterparts:) Ill be breaking it down again to put in a couple new parts i got but still need to get info on what size engine can drop in there. Thanks for your help much appreciated.
 
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