Firehammer MT Shocks

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Steelrodeo

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I just got this truck two weeks ago and shocks are leaking like crazy. Three out of the four shocks are leaking. I've opened it up and two of them are almost out of oil. WTF

I contacted DTX and customer service guy told me that is the first time someone complains about the shock leaking (must be his first day on the job). After a long conversation and discussion on my option, I decided to take the rebuild kit vs. sending it in. Then we talk about the oil and he said the recommended oil is 50 WT and that is all he can send me. I have read some were that 5000 or 7000 differential lube was used.

So here are my questions:
1. Does anyone else experience FHMT shock leaking?
2. What weight oil work for you?
3. What upgrade shock is available?

So far the truck has been really good to me. It starts within a couple pulls every time, even in 20 deg weather. I have made a 1/2 pipe out of snow in my drive way and having a blast. Over all I love the FHMT.
 
Shocks leak, yes. The rebuild kit is under $3.00. Kit seen here.
I still use front DTX shocks in my FHbuggy and after I used a thicker oil and rebuild kit they don't leak - Much.:lol: I switched my buggy's out to FG cause I could not get them to stop leaking. Leaking has been an issue for ever. If the shock shafts get scratched up from the little washer that holds the O'rings in the bottom I think it starts to leak from pulling in and out the shock (If that makes sense?) .
If the rebuild doesn't work I would send them in, you may get them replaced if they can't get them to stop leaking. Other then that buy some cheaper oil and keep on hand to keep filling, kind of like that old car that wont stop burning oil.:lol:
 
Your right you get a leak if the shock shaft is scratched up...I bought the repair kit
plus the shafts for rebuild...The firehammer shocks are ok is about all..need some thing better...maybe Fg shocks....AKASlawhanner
 
The DTX shock rebuilt kit are crap. I bought a set and notice that the o-ring seal has flash on them. The flash will create a chanel for the fluid to past by. If you look carefully at the tower hobbies picture, you will notice the flash too.

I'm currently looking at the FG O-ring kit. If they are the same spec (ID/OD), I will try it. The DTX shock body and shaft is good quality, just bad seals.

Thanks for your help.
 
Hey guys, I call DDM and talk to Dale. He was nice enough to get the FG sock seal kit and give me the ID/OD. The small seal is the same size as the FHMT oring so I ordered two set. Part #fg6093.

I will rebuild the FH shock with the FG seal and post the result.
 
Hey guys, I call DDM and talk to Dale. He was nice enough to get the FG sock seal kit and give me the ID/OD. The small seal is the same size as the FHMT oring so I ordered two set. Part #fg6093.

I will rebuild the FH shock with the FG seal and post the result.

Keep us posted. I may do the same if it works well.
 
Glad I read this. I have 4 leaky shocks and was about to order a seal kit. I am using the shocks on road so might try rebuilding since they are cheap.... maybe trim the flashing and add some shoe goo to the seal outer edge?
 
pipeous - I just got the FG o-ring and find it is a higher durometer than the DTX so it will give the shock a tighter seal.

I just returned all 4 shock to DTX for a complete rebuild because I notice that the metal O-ring retainer washer was gouging the shaft causing it to leak. Check that out before you waste your time rebuilding the shock.

I'm also in the process of looking at upgrade shock and will post when i have positive results.
 
pipeous - I just got the FG o-ring and find it is a higher durometer than the DTX so it will give the shock a tighter seal.

I just returned all 4 shock to DTX for a complete rebuild because I notice that the metal O-ring retainer washer was gouging the shaft causing it to leak. Check that out before you waste your time rebuilding the shock.

I'm also in the process of looking at upgrade shock and will post when i have positive results.

That was happening to mine over and over. The shaft just has too much bend in it with the plunger they use. They need a stiffer fit and loose the small washer and go with a bigger hole in the center of the washer.:no:
 
I will take a closer look. I have the set on my semi and it's getting new shoes this weekend...

maybe dremmeling some of the clip off so it won't hit the shaft? is it an e or c clip? maybe a different clip would help too. I should just rip it apart and see. tonight's adventure I guess is to have a closer look at those clips and shock shafts. I actually have FG shocks on my Firehammer.

I complained to the guy I got the FH from about the shocks leaking, then read about how it is common and told him I was going to rebuild them.... now I am just going to have to think about modding the dang things instead... or buy some more fg shocks. Trying to mod so many 5th scales is bloody expensive though hehe
 
I will take a closer look. I have the set on my semi and it's getting new shoes this weekend...

maybe dremmeling some of the clip off so it won't hit the shaft? is it an e or c clip? maybe a different clip would help too. I should just rip it apart and see. tonight's adventure I guess is to have a closer look at those clips and shock shafts. I actually have FG shocks on my Firehammer.

I complained to the guy I got the FH from about the shocks leaking, then read about how it is common and told him I was going to rebuild them.... now I am just going to have to think about modding the dang things instead... or buy some more fg shocks. Trying to mod so many 5th scales is bloody expensive though hehe

What BTB and I are talking about are the double 0-ring retaining washer. It located at the bottom the the shock and you must remove the wire clip to get to it.

I found some brass washer that may do the trick and you have to enlarge the ID. Unfortunatly i sent all for shock in for service so I can't do it any time soon.

by the way. I got the washer from Home Depot.

Good luck.
 

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That was happening to mine over and over. The shaft just has too much bend in it with the plunger they use. They need a stiffer fit and loose the small washer and go with a bigger hole in the center of the washer.:no:



I don’t think the problem is the o-rings or the washer, although better o-rings would be nice. I think Bigger the Better hit the nail on the head. It is the shock piston they use. The shock piston allows the shaft to move side to side this is causing it to rub against the washer creating gouges in the shaft. The shock then starts to leak because of the gouges in the shock shafts. If they would use a different shock piston that doesn’t allow the shaft to move from side to side I think it would eliminate the shafts from getting gouges in it, thus eliminating the leaking. The piston in my FG shocks has no space between it and the inside walls of the shock body, which eliminates any side to side play in the shock shaft.
 
Interesting

You’re saying, if I change to a tighter piston, it will less likely for the shaft to rub against the metal washer?

I think you are on to something. I will see if ae RC8 piston will fit when the time come. They use plastic washer to retain the O-ring.
 
I think the shock piston is the main culprit with the leaking of these shocks. Better o-rings would be good and I like the ideal of a nylon washer, no gouging with them, instead of the metal one.

I received an email form Hobbytech, they have a new set of shock that look pretty good and the price isn’t bad. I don’t know how well they perform, but they seem well made. I have bought several items from them and they have always been very good quality.

http://www.rc-car-online-shop.de/lshop,showdetail,5643,e,1232732592-5643,,gpm_shock,,,.htm
 
I don’t think the problem is the o-rings or the washer, although better o-rings would be nice. I think Bigger the Better hit the nail on the head. It is the shock piston they use. The shock piston allows the shaft to move side to side this is causing it to rub against the washer creating gouges in the shaft. The shock then starts to leak because of the gouges in the shock shafts. If they would use a different shock piston that doesn’t allow the shaft to move from side to side I think it would eliminate the shafts from getting gouges in it, thus eliminating the leaking. The piston in my FG shocks has no space between it and the inside walls of the shock body, which eliminates any side to side play in the shock shaft.

That's what I mean.:) Those other shock are alot alike but, they have improved them from the looks of it. Would like to know if they are good.:)
 
Hey guys, I just fit a LST reservoir shock in the FH MT.

Note: This shock will only fit in the rear and I had to extend the rear shock tower so it does not rub. This shock is huge. The shock body is 25.4 mm vs. the stock 16mm. The coil OD is 35mm and the shaft is 5mm thick vs. OEM 4mm. My only concern is the ability to fit an aftermarket pipe on my upgrade list.

Can someone post a close up picture of the pipe with the stock rear shock?

You can pick up a pair for under $55 at Hobby Fever, which is prety good for a 5th scale upgrade.
http://www.hobbyfever.com/product_info.php?products_id=8026

I'm still waiting for the OEM front shock so I can't give you a road test review.
 

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hey steel, not picking or anything. those shocks look real nice, but you only have 1 screw holding that shock tower mod on. and you may just lose them shocks as those arent locking nuts. at least "loc-tite" them in. and whats with the ride hight. your drive shaft and swing arm should be almost level. the pitch of those drive shafts are going to couse a problem. does the chassis bottom out? or doeas it just bottom out the shock? if those shocks don't fit up front, then you do you plan to do?
 
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