Front brakes

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drdru

Well-Known Member
Messages
55
Location
Norwich
hi all ive just fitted disc brakes to my marder, how good should i expect them to be.
im finding to get them to work with any effect im having to set them up so they are on in the netrual position, they come off when i throttle up binde when i let go and sort of slow it down when i brake.
am i close to the right setup?

and can you tell me where i can get pads for front brakes & layshaft.

Cheers dru.:w00t:
 
Hi Dru, I'm in a similar boat to you!
I've tuning front and rear cable brakes on my 18Kg FG MT - yup, quite a lot heavier than your Marder, but that's mainly because of the alloy wheels (all 4 together weigh 6Kg!!).
I've got MCD chevron MT tyres, which grip HARD.
I've no problems locking the rears, but the fronts are difficult.
I'm running Savox 1256TG servos on both the fronts and the rears (throttle/brake).
I remove the wheels and spend perhaps 10 minutes adjusting the pads to the closest possible, when in neutral, before any binding. Sometimes you have to throttle on/off a couple of times to get the 'real position'.
Then I setup the cables, as you say, to just-not-quite pull and bind - that way, you'll get fair grip.
I reckon you'll get good braking, but not amazing.
A VERY powerful servo is important, and I've just purchased a Savox 1230 from USA to replace the 1256TG for this reason - 80% more torque at 500 oz in at 6.0V.
I've had hydros before, but they were KPD ones, and more hassle than they were worth - I was spending more time bleeding these, cleaing out hydro fluid than I was doing ANYTHING else.
Magura or Mecatech hydros are a different beast. For BEST stopping, hydro is the way to go, but cables are less hassle, but less powerful.
Al.
 
cheers al im running a single futaba s3010 servo for both throttle/brake, not sure on wot servos are wot but think ill run another one for brakes to try to get more leverage.
 
I have just replaced the throttle servo and added a second brake servo with two 15kg servos with front cables ( one servo) and standard rear lay shaft brake (shared throttle servo). once I got them sorted I can lock the fronts up if I use full brake on bitumen...dosnt help steering but neither does slicks on grass.
only problem Im having now is poor steering lock?

Justin
 
Yeah, I've a 1256TG on the fronts, on a 1:5 and that's no problems locking the fronts - that's how I warm up the front tyres a bit, by zig-zagging and cadence braking.
I only 'bash' up and down in front of the house, as I'm older, have no confidence in my driving against others, and have no wish to spend BIG money on replacements - wife would kill me!!
Al.
 
Mine work good I changed the springs wiv a click pen spring and they work a lot better no binding at all. The best thing I did to them
 
I ran cable brakes on my on road and they were a pain to set up but once sorted were OK I use Mecatech Hydraulic front and rear now very simple but at a shade under £500 very expensive.
 
cheers all atleast i know its not me got it wrong ill order a servo. but dose anyone know where i can get layshaft pads from i treid ebay and cant find them and mine are dead so only got front brakes at mo.
 
My front cables where crap..I spent ages trying to get them to work well.
It was a case of no brakes or locked up nothing in between..


In the end I made up new cables from mountain bike cables...
and fitted a high power servo and it now stops more like I thought it should

the cables have to be perfectly smooth as the caliper spring is not going to cope with the stress of releasing the pads..as mentioned change the springs for something a little stronger..don't go daft though as the servo has to fight the springs too..so you just waste servo power pulling the springs.



another thing I did was to try keep the cable as straight and kink free as possible when leaving the caliper..it helps to keep the cables smooth and easy for the servo to pull.


Make sure to clean out any stuck grass and objects too...



IMAG0025.jpg



as for pads..try www.rossmod.co.uk ..part number 08465.they do competition/alloy or steel pads..good service from these guys too..
 
there is another way to get better stoping power from fg cable brakes

if you get 2 of the larger disc's used with hydro set ups and space the caliper out a little bit with some home made spacers @2-3mm if i remember right this gives you much better stoping power and as long as the cables are ok and not kinked or bent then you will be happy

ps this will only work on off roaders as the wheels are bigger than touring cars



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cables

Hi im fully rebuilding my marder bought lots of alloy bits i need new cables for my brakes ive googled it and found wheelspin.com but didnt like the price much Anyone know a cheaper site i coild make my own but i want the brass threaded Ends.
 
renbar said:
there is another way to get better stoping power from fg cable brakes

if you get 2 of the larger disc's used with hydro set ups and space the caliper out a little bit with some home made spacers @2-3mm if i remember right this gives you much better stoping power and as long as the cables are ok and not kinked or bent then you will be happy

ps this will only work on off roaders as the wheels are bigger than touring cars



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I love the fact you have it on a mini axle stand - wicked !!
 
Trolley jack (at a REASONABLE price) and axle stands available from Hobbythek.
I got my trolley jack - identical - for 2/3 their price from USA.
Some joker is trying to palm one off for £70 on Ebay, if it hasn't gone - total rip off and nearly 3x what I paid!!
Al.
 
here you go mate a better pic of the jack it can lift upto 90kg so my bugs no problem for it lol

it was something i just had to have its so cool and the quality is spot on very well made and quite heavy i got the 4 axle stands and jack for @70 odd euros



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