Gravel pack.

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voo2doo

voo2doo

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Just took a few shots of my Rally with the gravel pack on and have a few questions to ask fello MCD owners.
Firstly--Is there any way of changing the axles to ones that will take the standard FG squares?
Second--When on full compression there is still about 1" to 1"1/2 still left on the ground clearance.Should the chassis touch the floor? If not is this dangerous to the shocks as they will be taking the full force of the bump/jumps under compression !
Clive,if you read this can you give me detailed shots of your Scoobys set-up.
Thanks fellas.
J.
 
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J,
Your ride looks nice man I like everything about it. The FG receiver box looks like it is meant to be there, how cool.
About the FG squares, believe me I have tried but with no success to put them on. The MCD ones have a hex pattern on their inside hole and it screws up trying to put an FG one with a nice round hole with set screws...
As for the setup, i'm not sure i follow what you mean...Sorry mate!!

Chris
 
Here is my Rally car when I used it off road - sorry no photos without the bodyshell on though.

rally3.jpg


rally4.jpg


rally2h.jpg


rally5.jpg


Clive
 
Hi J,

I noticed that the rear upper wishbone bush is positioned forward on your car. On mine its positioned at the rear. Plus you rear shocks don't look centralized? I am not sure if its because your car is an early model.

In regards to the fg squares for the wheels as Chris has pointed out the mcd use squares with a inner hex shape to suit the axles (no grub screws).
A friend of mine decided to mod his mcd so he could use fg wheels and tyres. He uses the buggy axles on his rally car because they are longer. Plus he uses fg squares with the 2 grubs screws. The fg wheel offset is slightly different. So the wheels stick out wider. Mind you they look and work on his mcd with the porsche shell. With the fg wheels on the standard rally axles there is not enough thread at the end of the axle to secure the wheel nut. The buggy axles take care of this. I suppose there is more tyre option for the fg.
I intially was thinking of this option until I tried mcd on road rally bluespot tyres. Now that I have figured out how to get them on the wheels and they seem to last longer.
The original mcd hex squares are 28gbp per pair, not cheap compare to fg squares.
I tried the fg squares today as my new mcd wheels that don't have the inner steel hex built into the wheels. Ive yet to strip the car and have a look at the axles to see if the squares have slipped using the 2 grubs screws.

I am not an expert in this field but would imagine you need some ground clearance if your concerned about the shocks bottoming out then there is a thread on the mcd forum where a member has modded his shocks.

Ticky
 
Yes Ticky,the shocks are not centralised but if I moved them back any further they would rub on the back shell hanger. Ah. I see, I didnt notice the position of the rear bush,If I were to turn the top arm over and put the spacer at the back it would then centralise the rear shock!
Well spotted Tick.When I put the GP on the suspension geometry was/is all over the place and I also put on a set of FG squares to see if they held up but with building four fifth scale (and waiting for an accident damaged to arrive) plus two nippers (five and four) and repairing other cars my time is a bit stretched.I had to get up at five in the morning to put the GP pack on so I had a little time before my daughters and missus got up.Then all chaos breaks loose!
I took my Marder Beetle out today with Jackobyte and Jace (with his Bergonzoni grass car) and decided to see how much air time I could get.....Hmmm......when I say big air I mean big air! I launched it off the top of a hill where we go and it landed about 25 feet from the place of take off!:w00t: On its nose:oops: thus resulting in a snapped manifold:cursing: So,out comes the mig welder tomorrow.
J.
 
James, I only used medium travel shocks at the front and the original short travel shocks at the rear.

The suspension geometry was initially way out but it only needed the camber to be adjusted using the top turnbuckles.

The ground clearance was acceptable but nowhere near that of say a Race Runner but that didn't stop me from jumping it at the local motocross track...I broke a rear shock shaft and fork after a high speed landing over this jump -

moto3ov5.jpg


I'm convinced that the parts would not have broken if I had used the medium travel shocks at the rear.

Clive
 
Mate, believe me when you get past three cars you start paying the price.I'm upgrading six up to now,thats not including my 20 odd 10th scale cars i am always upgrading as well and the rest of the collection but thats a different story!
J.

You want to see a collection?... look at Kenzzao's thread (dragsters) and look at his garage!!!!! Jeeze mate,thats a collection!
J.
 
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hey there,
just thought i'd chime in. in pic #4 i can see that you have your shocks set up on the inside holes of you A arms, and the outer/lower holes of your shock tower.
Reverse both of these to get the car to sit lower, and use the pan the keep the shocks from bottoming out. Outer holes on the A arms, and inner/upper holes on the shock tower.
this should make a big difference in the ground clearance, and the way the springs react to bumps/jumps.
 
Hey Tooslow,thanks for that.I have a few projects on the go at the moment so the MCD is about third down the line but I will try that and let you know how I got on.
Cheers
j.
 
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