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My wife would kill me if I messed with her oven. ?
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I too use our oven to heat the case when im building engines?She do.......and i use the ovan to cook tyres off the rims....noramlly when shes out if poss
1+++++++ need to break down the thread locker. Never Gunna get it out without a stripped head if u don't
+1Guys you don't have to give screws a bath in the loctite for them to hold . 2 to 3 threads 3/4 the way around the screw is all you need .
True I just like being generous ?Not true at all . We use loctite on everything at work and the only time I was never able to take something apart was when we used Green loctite. That stuff was amazing. Blue and red loctite no problem . Guys you don't have to give screws a bath in the loctite for them to hold . 2 to 3 threads 3/4 the way around the screw is all you need .
I never have used green but I always thought green had less strength than blue.I hope no one one here is using green. That's like the end all of locktite. Metal lock used it a few times on old engins that needed the cam tunnels sleeved to hold the sleeve in place. Wild horses couldn't get those sleeves out!
You need to visit the Loctite company site they list, using a chart on all their products and how they work.I never have used green but I always thought green had less strength than blue.
I recently came across a product called Sock It Out, they are bits that don't require any drilling, you just tap them into the rounded out screw head and put a wrench on them and turn counter clockwise. They sell them at McMaster-Carr. I will let you know if they work down the road.Dear Members,
I feel that after almost 3 years of 5th scale I can fix most problems.
I am still struggling with removing stripped Hex Screws.
Sometimes I get lucky and other times it turns into a nightmare.
I finely sought out professional advice. I talked to a former machinist in customer service at McMaster-Carr Company. He started me on the right path and the bottom line is using the correct drill bits and extractors.
I purchased a set of bits and extractors and a 3 mm cobalt drill bit. Part # 2729A44 and 2753A164 see attached pictures. This is a great place to start. I tried to remove my first stripped hex screw and used too large of a drill bit and drilled off the head so I was facing the stud (BUMMER). Drilled out the stud and had to tap the transmission plate on my Vekta. I pull it off and was able to screw in a new screw but at a slight angle.
Any Landing you walk away from is a good one.
Anyway with more practice I hope to master the stripped screw scourge.
Sorry for the long post.
Best Regards,
William E. Burrows Jr. View attachment 48082View attachment 48083View attachment 48084
I'm in the same boat, had problems stripping screws until I got a set of MIP tools. Have not had a striped screw since & was able to remove striped screws that I striped with cheep tools before I got the MIP tools. MIP tools are worth every cent it saves on dealing with striped screws.Since getting an set of overpriced MIP hex tools I have not stripped anything on my RCs (so I suppose it was worth the over price rate)
I typically use a dremmel tool and cut a grove through the head and use a flat head. If all else fails the whole part is coming off and getting replaced.
what u gunna replace em with? also are torx any good? and i can whole heartedly agree with you, hexes are absolute poopI am giving up hexes and replacing every single screw in all my cars as I get them removed. Hex screws is positively poop on a stick where you grabbed the wrong end.
Better then hexs???what u gunna replace em with? also are torx any good? and i can whole heartedly agree with you, hexes are absolute poop
Id assume so by the design, I've with sum torx screws when doing things on the bmw, but those u didnt need o torque down alot as they were going into plastic, my question is how they hold up to high torqueBetter then hexs???
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