I would be shot for askin this question!!!!!

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charlieboy

charlieboy

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I know that newbies ask questions like this and I'm bracin myself for all the dumbass jokes (Dwarfy) :lol: but I've forgot where to fill the fat fg alloy shocks to with oil, is it to the top or do you leave a gap??? For the life of me I can't remember :lol::lol::lol:



Cue the abuse..............:lol::lol:
 
charlieboy said:
I know that newbies ask questions like this and I'm bracin myself for all the dumbass jokes (Dwarfy) :lol: but I've forgot where to fill the fat fg alloy shocks to with oil, is it to the top or do you leave a gap??? For the life of me I can't remember :lol::lol::lol:


Cue the abuse..............:lol::lol:
Click to expand...

I'm looking forward to the 'textbook' replies, like from Keith or Mike, but personally, I fill to the maximum that permits me to fully compress the piston.
I have the slimmer Evo04 all alloy shocks with the 'breather', so 'don't quite close' the cap and push up the piston and clean off the excess oil coming out.
Once complete I fully close, which seems to seal off, and I can push in to the full amount, but without any 'slack'.

Don't know how far off the mark this is, but that's the way I do it.
It must permit full movement of the shock without hydraulic compression.

Al.
 
lol :D ...don't worry mate, im in the same boat, never changed shock oil b4 so to me its a whole new ball game!

i can strip & rebuild my FG Monster with my eyes closed now, but when it comes to shocks... N00B alert! ..hence my other topic in this section! lol :D
 
I did put an idiots guide to building shocks somewhere but basically fill the shocks 3/4 full and work the pistons up and down a good few times then pull the piston out to the max and leave them an hour. Top up the oil right to the metal ring then oput the bladder in, wipe up the excess and screw the cap on. The piston should push all the way up and can return about half way on it's own. If you push the piston up and there is a "gap" at the start, there is not enough oil in, if it doesn't go all the way up, there is too much oil.

On the Leopard/marder race shocks, I always drilled the pistons out to 1.5mm is it worked/felt better.

If you get stuck, bring them over one night his week and I'll show you how to do them.
 
+1 Mike. You have to make sure you leave them long enough for the air bubbles to disperse so it would be handy to make a stand to drop them in otherwise you will be going shopping with the wife on a saturday afternoon with 4 shocks in your hand :lol::lol: When you put the cap on, if the piston doesn't push all the way in, even if it is only a fraction, you will have to take a smidge of oil out or you will risk bending or breaking the shock shaft.

See no dunbass comments here, just being my usual helpful self cos I have asked the same question in the past :w00t:
 
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dwarfy said:
+1 Mike. You have to make sure you leave them long enough for the air bubbles to disperse so it would be handy to make a stand to drop them in otherwise you will be going shopping with the wife on a saturday afternoon with 4 shocks in your hand :lol::lol: When you put the cap on, if the piston doesn't push all the way in, even if it is only a fraction, you will have to take a smidge of oil out or you will risk bending or breaking the shock shaft.

See no dunbass comments here, just being my usual helpful self cos I have asked the same question in the past :w00t:
Click to expand...


I know someone who makes these stands.

Thats only because I got in first! :lol:
 
Mike1970 said:
I know someone who makes these stands.

Thats only because I got in first! :lol:
Click to expand...

I use one of these

http://rc-car-online-shop.de/shop/en/products/y0198-y0198-bubble-ex-new-version-1-pce-.html

Answering the first question I thought you'd already bled and were wondering how much to fill.
I'm sure Mike's right, but I always like the rebound on smaller shocks, but found there's a very fine line on the larger FG ones.
I always tried for the same 'rebound' (I mean pushing the piston back out) on all shocks.

The next thing is to test the shock settings on a balance to see the force required for the same compression .....

This is why I'm lazy and prefer being a 'basher' - I need to consider these, then smile!!

Al.
 
Mike1970 said:
I did put an idiots guide to building shocks somewhere but basically fill the shocks 3/4 full and work the pistons up and down a good few times then pull the piston out to the max and leave them an hour. Top up the oil right to the metal ring then oput the bladder in, wipe up the excess and screw the cap on. The piston should push all the way up and can return about half way on it's own. If you push the piston up and there is a "gap" at the start, there is not enough oil in, if it doesn't go all the way up, there is too much oil.

On the Leopard/marder race shocks, I always drilled the pistons out to 1.5mm is it worked/felt better.

If you get stuck, bring them over one night his week and I'll show you how to do them.
Click to expand...

Nice one mike think I might just be able to sort them :lol:

Just ordered the 3000 & 2000 oils when they turn up I think a shocker rebuild is on the cards :):)
 
atom3624 said:
I use one of these

http://rc-car-online-shop.de/shop/en/products/y0198-y0198-bubble-ex-new-version-1-pce-.html

Answering the first question I thought you'd already bled and were wondering how much to fill.
I'm sure Mike's right, but I always like the rebound on smaller shocks, but found there's a very fine line on the larger FG ones.
I always tried for the same 'rebound' (I mean pushing the piston back out) on all shocks.

The next thing is to test the shock settings on a balance to see the force required for the same compression .....

This is why I'm lazy and prefer being a 'basher' - I need to consider these, then smile!!

Al.
Click to expand...

Basher or not, a car needs to be well set up to enjoy it to it's full potential. I might do a shock filling video.
 
Mike1970 said:
Basher or not, a car needs to be well set up to enjoy it to it's full potential. I might do a shock filling video.
Click to expand...

Defo agree mate. I was totally fed up of the Integy MSR6's. Always getting one or other leaking, until I noticed the thread was a smaller diameter than the shaft, and also the shoulder wasn't shamfered, it was as square and sharp as you could get - very useful when trying to feed past the O-rings.

Dress up, and you might get an Oscar nomination!!

Al.
 
Just a weird thing on shocks, on the old leopard with the standard alloy leopard shock (piston holes drilled out to 1.5mm) I used 3000wt & 2000wt oil and nothing else.

These days on the new leopard I use anywhere from 250wt to 700wt oil and softer springs than you'd ever get for the old car.
 
Mike1970 said:
Just a weird thing on shocks, on the old leopard with the standard alloy leopard shock (piston holes drilled out to 1.5mm) I used 3000wt & 2000wt oil and nothing else.

These days on the new leopard I use anywhere from 250wt to 700wt oil and softer springs than you'd ever get for the old car.
Click to expand...

Better action?
Tighter manufacturing tolerances?
Still pre-drill-out to 1.5mm I take it?
(You're the last one to ask this, but may as well - CN in the post I suppose !!)
Were the olds mounted straight?

Al.
 
atom3624 said:
Mike,
Why do you always mention stiffer on the fronts?
Is this for jumping, to take the landings?

I'm generally simply balancing off the weight, not wanting the front to be too stiff / springy.

Al.
Click to expand...

Im with you Al - never thought of heavier weight oil at the front. If anything I would have put that in the back. Could this be a different approach generally between racers and bashers? Ive never been to a race track but can imagine they are a relatively even surface compared to the lumps & bumps of a bash field where you may benefit from a softer front end.

Maybe Mike could give some basic advice and explain the gen on oil weights & spring choice & how they affect the handling on say rough, medium & smooth surfaces??
 
dwarfy said:
Im with you Al - never thought of heavier weight oil at the front. If anything I would have put that in the back. Could this be a different approach generally between racers and bashers? Ive never been to a race track but can imagine they are a relatively even surface compared to the lumps & bumps of a bash field where you may benefit from a softer front end.

Maybe Mike could give some basic advice and explain the gen on oil weights & spring choice & how they affect the handling on say rough, medium & smooth surfaces??
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm always seeing this with the racers - stiffer fronts than backs.
Must be for turn in for On-Road and Bump Absorption (damage limitation) for Off-Road.

I've always gone stiffer at the back, and still don't have it riding super smooth.
I can open her out now, 'though I still get regular standing donuts!!

E-Maxx and Raminator never have this problem, 'though they're 4x4 as well.
Al.
 
It's not just off road, on road cars have heavier oil in the front too e.g 8000 in the front, 6000in the back.

It's a lot to do with weight transfer before & after jumps, cornering and such - and the holes in the pistons on this car are drilled out to 2mm.

The front of my car feels quite similar although I have different springs front and rear - not to mention the shocks are different lengths.

We don't have any smooth off road tracks in the UK, they're all bumpy and 4 of the 6 we use have fecking great jumps.
 
Well i grow and learn i did not know how much oil you should put aswell lol but now i know thanks guys for teaching people like me and charlie
 
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