I've got a T2000.still working out the bugs

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the trio of bugs - looks great!! nice one matey.

i think there's a grand total of teeth shared between both gears on a baja isn't there?? i did have a little chart explaining it all.........but sods feckin law i can't find it! as there's no adjustment on the pinion/spur gears on these largescale cars (unlike a nitro..) the matching of the correct gears becomes paramount. if the gears are mating too tight themselves it generates friction between em, which'll kill the weakest part (in your case, the spur), if they're too far apart and only the leading edge of the tooth meshing, it'll strip.

and also, as juggernate says, i wouldn't fit a metal spur, they fit plastic parts to these cars as they're designed to break in the event of a fu*k up, i'd sooner that to break than something else further along the line...

hope you get it sorted mate and enjoy that T2000! get some video up of it if you can :)
 
true T2, better rip apart a spur than anything more inboard in drivetrain.

if like mentioned his carrier is open style, then prolly not pinion heating up, its got to be a mesh issue, tight, or not enough, mismatch of tooth count on spur to pinion.

seems like it, with all other options seeming to be narrowed down, pointing to that most likely suspect, then.
 
I bet the mesh is to tight. When I got the car initially it would hardly roll. Burnt that gear up and replaced it with a hostile and the mesh was better but still a little tight. I got my new 57 hostile gear so I will take a hard look at the mesh. I bet that's whats going on.
 
yeah let's hope so eh! when looking, there should be a slight gap between the teeth (not excessive) but just right. so if you hold one gear tight in your hand and move the other gear back n forth, it should move ever so slightly.
 
Yep, mesh is so tight that the gears pop when you spin them. Going to have to use a 56, I hope that's still not too tight.
 
Lan-Ed-Tul said:
think you got part of your answers directed at wrong guy Dan. i had asked how yours was running out of curiosty. the other guy is having the spur eating problem with his t2000. i have the t1000 i got off you thru ebay.

but yah you right i think, that your prolly the best guy to talk to on any km issues, if you don't know, you can prolly find out at least for anyone.

ive been doin lots of upgrades on mine, alloy parts here and there, new radio and servos comin in tommorrow for it. will use the stock radio on something else.

found out one thing, you cant put on dark soul meaty bones and hostile boots without makin a change to that gearcover. the tab that holds the rear of cover on ripped a boot right off. i removed that tab, and used a bolt and nut with a concave washer to replace the front 2 pins holding cover on. snugged just enough to be secure and not move. and now i got the clearance for boot.

put a killer bee on engine, and a inclined shredstack is comin for carb.

that filter design is a pain, the new tack put filter up at angle to make getting it on and off easier.
Click to expand...

Nice mods! Ad good ideas. Post some pictures when you are done.

Dan
 
DanLC4 said:
Nice mods! Ad good ideas. Post some pictures when you are done.

Dan
Click to expand...

shots showin that cover mod, tab removed on rear of gearcover, see all the extra room there now clearance wise,
IMG_1340.jpg

you can see the shiney spot at end of hostile boot, well thats where the tab i removed caught the boot and tore end of it right off, it wont do it anymore, lol
this is shot showin the bolt, concave washer and locknut used to replace the old plastic LOOSE fitting cover pins

IMG_1341.jpg

shot showin what lil you can see in the shreadhead shredstack inclind vstack

IMG_1342.jpg

shot showin the remote led location and tab mount i made for Killer Bee led

IMG_1344.jpg

closeup

IMG_1345.jpg

shot of the extra radio box i bought to setup new radio and servos in, when alls bout ready to slap in the box, a couple Killer bee wire hookups, andsteering connected and throttle too, and then the fine radio servo throw adjustments.
IMG_1343.jpg

this new 4pks radio does everything. you can set epa's on servos, speed of the throws, center the arms without using main trims, not affecting overall throw swing. its complicated, manuals not as thourough as i would like, but with some expirementing with menus and finding my way around radio menus, i think it will work ok.

setup the KB to killl engine with the ps3 swicth button and will set the FS also to when Rx batt hits a certain volt level it slams on brake and shuts down the engine too.

these new servos will have to be WP'd first. getting hitec servo grease laddle that around the input shaft after i pop the cases open, then lay on some plasti dip with a brush around top and bottom case seams. and wire pigs.

installed one side shock springs with the DDM 20% stiffer yellow orange color springs. installed my pitbull wheel liners on body, those with the team chase mudguard should nearly cut almost all of the crud from getting on top inside.

and more stuff to arrive in mail, like the woddster bod im doin the general lee paint job with decals on.
 
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Some new vids. Still crummy video. We can't seem to remember to bring the camera....using cell phone.




 
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hooked up the radio box and was setting thethrows and centering the arm on 5755 steering servo, and it started goin slowly then stopped and smoke come out of it. wierd thing is i didnt do nothing to it, it must been defective the 7955 T/B servo is still fine.
 
DanLC4 said:
I have the T2000 as well. The spur gear and pinon mesh might be too tight. Try a 56th tooth spur gear. KM had trouble with that in a couple of their cars. I know this because I sell them :).

Dan
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This was the problem. I put on a 56 tooth Hostile gear and all is good. The problem was the mesh.
 
cool glad the 56 tooth spur workd out the TR one piece brake and D's brakes come in and i installed it, now i dunno have to worry bout that lil plastic divider piece that slips in the clutch backplate the one piece unit does away with that, its built into the unit. only thing i had to do was drill out the bottom of the one concave bolt hole to 1/4 inch for the centering lug on TR 4th post to fit. simple mod to plate. looks good now and brake arm stays centered now not flopping all over like it was stock, cuz the TR assembly uses the lil springs to push the pads apart/ really happy with that addition, well worth the money and a simple mod to plate to fit it. also sent the Rx from radio in to futaba to get fixed or replaced, and also the Hitec brand new 5755 servo that fried on me the other nite. got one comin off ebay so i donthave to wait long to get on with install.

when eventually, the other servo i sent in comes back and the Rx im thinkin of the swamp buggy project, one more servo and i can use same radio on boat. and cool thing is the 4pks has boat setup on radio to make it easy to set it up.
 
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