King Motors 2.0

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Rossco said:
Wrong one bud,,,,,,,,the layshaft is the long one labled (A070).

The missing bearing goes in place of the (seal A097)&(retainer clip B072)

The bearing to go in there is (D03) which are the same as the wheel bearings.
Click to expand...

Wait I missed something here... The bearing will replace the seal and the retainer clip?
 
Question:

Can I use the HPI 5b ss kit instructions to assemble this KM is I took it apart?

Actually... Is the KM 3.0 kit installation instructions online?
The manual in the kingmotor.cn web is the same I have... it's just a diagram blow up.. but no details like bolt size... where to use locktite... etc
I guess I could use this as a guide... just don't know details... like how much oil in diffs... torque settings ...etc...
 
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SiRaDuDe said:
Question:

Can I use the HPI 5b ss kit instructions to assemble this KM is I took it apart?

Actually... Is the KM 3.0 kit installation instructions online?
The manual in the kingmotor.cn web is the same I have... it's just a diagram blow up.. but no details like bolt size... where to use locktite... etc
I guess I could use this as a guide... just don't know details... like how much oil in diffs... torque settings ...etc...
Click to expand...

Yes bud,,,they are the same as HPI,,,,only the quality is not quite as good,,,but that's it.

The only bolts you need to locktite are the head bolts & clutch bolts,,,,,every thing else is nylock nuts & spring washers.

Fill the diff to the top.

I personally don't bother with torque settings,,,,,I just do em up tight,,,but not thread stripping tight.
 
Thanks for all the help!

I have more questions...LOL

What Diff fluid weight should I use as a starting point... Shock fluid weight... and what type of grease should I use in the gear box...

Sorry this Baja did not come with fluids so I have to order...
 
New Report...

Pull start Spring just boke...

While I was doing a simple 5 - 10 min test... on a concrete basketball court...
I kept hearing this tink ..tink... tink.. That I had not noticed before...

So I turned off the engine and inspected the car for loose parts... but nothing went tink... tink... :)

So I went to pull of the handle and the handle it felt very grindy and still and it did not recoil back in.... so I took it apart ...

The plastic spool was very hard to turn and felt grity... I unscrewed it and the spring inside was kinda all out of shape... I assume the screw was probably not set all the way and the spring had too much play and unraveled inthere....

No problem I wound it up in the spool and then I noticed that the end of the spring (the little hook bend) had snapped....

Now ... I will order a replacement... meanwhile I will try to bend a new hook end... but I'm thinking this might not last or even work...

So far just a minor glitch... I know there are more to come...I hope they are all as simple...:clover:
 
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I just discoverd the original problem...

There is a washer with a square hole that holds down the spool/spring assembly..... well... the original assemblers did not make sure the square hole aligned witht the square peg... and installed it crooked.... marking the square peg... therefore the washer did not sit all the way down...

This left a some play in the spool allowing the spring to unravel and thus.... this problem.... and in the process of fixin the square plastic peg to the square washer fits back in it.. and so far the new hook in the spring seems to be holding...

More info when I test it... but to make sure a new one is on its way...
 
Be sure to get a CY or ZENOAH pullstart.
They are only about 10 bucks more than a ROVAN or KM one and they last about 50 times longer!!!!!!!!!!!!

I lost count of how many times I fixed my rovansport one,,,,so I pegged the bloody thing in the bin,,,,bought a ZENOAH one and it is still like new inside 6 months on!!!!!!
 
Rossco said:
Be sure to get a CY or ZENOAH pullstart.
Click to expand...

I sure did.... and so far the fix its working.... I'll take this one out and keep it for spare...

The only bad thing is that I used the velcro that came with my pre-filter on it... so I'm gona have to look around for some velcro for the new one... but no biggie either...

Thanks!
 
Question:

Is the front Upper plate supposed to be flat? :oops:

I hit a Cement pole at some speed... and i bent the front upper plate (aluminum) and did a little damage to the bulk head (plastic and I have replacement)

I think I'm gona hammer the Upper plate down... and order a HD one because I KNOW I will be hitting more things!:detective:

I just glad I had the Worx front bumper that took most of the impact...

Anyone know at what angle the bottom frame is bent up (degrees) so I can verify if by any chance that bent some? I dounbt it cuz its pretty thick alloy.

Also.. anyone know of a good source for an HD front Upper Plate... I know where to get the HPI one.. It's just that I know I saw some other aftermarket one and I cant remember where....

Edit: Never mind... I found it.. here : http://www.outlaw-rc.com/ but I don't know were to buy it from other than Australia, here: http://powerslideracing.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1535?... I saw they have an ebay listing but they want like ... $45 + like $30 shipping.... Maybe HPI HD one will have to do.... or do you guys think it's worth it?
 
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Everything is back in place.... bulkhead is a little tweaked...

I didnt think I hit that hard.... guess i was wrong...

I just banged the upper plat back into shape:blush:
 
:lol: I've been there.

The angle I think has been said to be
18* or 1 5/16 + or - 1/16.
Click to expand...

I had good luck bending it back with the help of a trailer hitch on a car with the ball & shaft removed leaving only the square trailer hitch. The front of the frame fits in the hole & you can bend to your hearts content. You still have to know how far to bend it & the other responces sugested 1 & 5/16 inches.
Click to expand...
 
I got a whole Pro set of sealed bearings from FastEddy and I just found out that the Wiper Arms from KM do not use the same size bearing that the HPI does (KM is much larger outer diameter).... and I have a lot of play (up and down) ... so much that a set of FastEddy's Steering shims (6 per set) are not enough to fix not even one side..!!!

So I will be ordering a complete HPI Wiper arm kit and a HPI servo saver kit... to bring it to original specs..

Hopefully the problem wont lie in the distance between the top plate and the bottom chasis... I'm hoping for out of spec wiper arms for this issue... if worst come to worse I will just find 5x10mm washers and pile them on.....
 
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Feels like I'm talking to myself, but what the heck ... I'll keep going..:dots:

Today I went on a heavy Bashing Session, and I have to say the Baja did very well, took a beating and kept on ticking...

Main jump was a ramp about 2 feet high about 3 feet long curving up at a steep angle and I hit that thing like 20 times sending the Baja usually like 10' out and about 6' high repeatedly with some of the time the steering arm popping out because of a bad landing but that should be expected, I did lots of end over end, cartwheels and flat out upsidedown landings but most of the time this thing landed well and maintained a level flight.:blush: This track was very small in size so I just concentrated on the large jump over and over and over:) It was mostly clay and it was very dry so that clay dust got EVERYWHERE! I landed once on my rear spoiler hard and was amazed the thing did not break off, its kinda bendy bendy now but not broken:clover: by the end of the session I had mastered that jump and most jumps went smoothly.

All went well until....

I had a very bad landing and landed on the top crest of another ramp upside down, and kinda took something out of whack and the flywheel is now rubbing/sticking against the Ignition Coil mount just enough to not let me crank the engine.... I assume I will just have to open the engine cover and re-adjust the ignition coil back in place:)

Like I said this Baja will not be babied and if something is weak on it I will find out fast... its being driven hard and will only get worse when I go to the dirt bike track next week:devil:

My initial crash with a pole on one of my previous past was my error and I do not blame any damages on KM's quality just on my driving abilities.

By the way I will now be doing a complete disasemble... I had done a partial and found out like most of you had said that the Shock were only half full, that little adjustment with 40w in front and 15w in rear made a nice difference. I will probably go with 15k oil in the diff, since most of my driving should be on dirt and I'm having some problem keeping a straight line on hard acceleration.

So far I have not broken a thing and thats goes a long way with me, tomorrows agenda will be disassembly, cleaning all that clay dust and inspection of ignition coil.

I will get some pics soon and maybe some video next week.
 
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Your not being ignored bud........most of us would have been out bashing our rides too.

I've given my baja a very very hard time this past week.........
Been through 30 litres of fuel in 7 days.....

Had to rering twice.....
Broke 1 diff out drive.....
Stripped 2 teeth off the steering servo's third gear.....(turned the gear 180 to fix)
Popped the O rings in both rear shocks......twice.....

All fixed now and it is still begging for more !!!
 
Complete tear down is a fun project. Sounds like you have ironed out most of what it needs to stay going with your style of driving.:cool2:

I believe you posted your question on the Integy in another thread. At least I remember answering the exact same question.
 
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