King Motors 2.0

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Another update....

KM beadlock screws don't seem to work well in Original HPI Wheels...

They are kinda too thin in diameter and don't grab at all when using updated beadlocks from SilverBack.... Soooo... Now I need to order new Screws from Silverback...

Dang... these new Silverback beadlocks look nice and though...

Note: Using the screws in the KM wheels seem to grab well...even with the silveback beadlocks.... go figure


I had a chance to compare more closely the KM wheels against the HPI Wheels... since I stripped a rear KM Wheel because I had left a bolt loose (my Fault)
The inner HEX shaped hole (where the hub goes in) in the HPI Wheel is made of metal... not a metal ring going around it, the actual hex hole is metal... in the KM it's made of plastic... and there is no metal anywhere... I checked with magnet....

So for the heavy bashers out there, upgrading your Rear Wheels might be an interest....
 
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Rossco said:
The infamous missing bearing is from the layshaft where it enters the gearbox,,when you open the box you will find on one side there will be a bearing,,,,,,,,on the other side there will only be a crappy little rubber seal where the bearing should be.

Definately put one in there for durability's sake!

If the rear brace breaks through it's weak point (the two short bits where the brake disc is) the spur would strip quicker than a $2 hooker,,,,,or munch the guts out of the box.

One extra bearing is cheap insurance on the gears.
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Another Update....

I just opened the Gear Box and found that KM now has this bearing in place from factory!

So in other words.... There is NO longer a missing Bearing in the KM Bajas from 2.0 up!!!!
 
Rossco, sorry, but I disagree with your logic here! So you are saying that in case the rear brace breaks, you add another bearing to the layshaft?

This doesn't make sense from an engineering standpoint, a bit like adding another seatbelt because the brakes might fail!

If there is a weakness in the rear brace, reinforcing it makes heaps more sense, compared to having the rear of the chassis loose after the rear brace fails and leaving it supported by the layshaft (weird!).

I stand by my comments elsewhere that the middle bearing is not necessary. Strengthening the rear brace (or replacing it with a stronger part) makes heaps more sense.

Rossco said:
The infamous missing bearing is from the layshaft where it enters the gearbox,,when you open the box you will find on one side there will be a bearing,,,,,,,,on the other side there will only be a crappy little rubber seal where the bearing should be.

Definately put one in there for durability's sake!

If the rear brace breaks through it's weak point (the two short bits where the brake disc is) the spur would strip quicker than a $2 hooker,,,,,or munch the guts out of the box.

One extra bearing is cheap insurance on the gears.
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just got some kingmotor diff,planet gears to replace my hpi ones that my buggy chewed up , stripped it down only to find the k,m gears have mutch smaller holes in the back of them :no::no:is there any other k,m parts that aint compatable or the other way round .
 
Aside from the bearings in the steering posts.... I haven't found anything major... I just got a full screw set from Tny's Screws and Im upgrading the screws for hardness..

I just did a whole disasemble and found a few screws over tigthened or maybe too much lock tite and a few screws stripped some... so these harder screws are very welcomed.

By the way...

I found that my initial front crash was really bad... I had intalled the Workx front bumper/skid guard version and this was all that was holding my front end togheter.... I had snapped clean off the front part of the chasis!!!!!

So... I'm ordering a frame today from were ever i find one!!!

I will be looking now... so any ideas on what to get .... please give them now!!!

i CANT BELIEVE I SNAPPED THE CHASIS!!:oops:

Would carbonfiber hold up to hard basing? or would a more pliable material be better?
 
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Well....

I just ordered an HPI 5B ss Chassis (pulled form a ss kit)
a Scorpion Chassis Brace black
and an HPI fornt BulkHead (pulled from a ss kit)

So I will have the Scorpion brace (metal) and the Works bumper/Brace (thick palstic)... 2 braces at the same time (I think I can fit them)... this should do for Impact protection!...:)
 
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tonystott said:
So you are saying that in case the rear brace breaks, you add another bearing to the layshaft?
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You are entitled to your opinion but that is not what I said or meant.

Not all of us can afford aftermarket bits & pieces to strengthen up the drivetrain.......or anything else for that matter.

Some of us have to deal with stock replacement parts.

Picture this.....you've just driven a couple of hours or so to have a good bash somewhere.......you have a big stack....enough to stress and break the rear brace (not hard to do if it is a big endo) and you don't have a spare brace in your parts box...............

Without that bearing in place you would be driving that couple of hours or so back home with a real sour look on your face.......

With that bearing in place you can still see the day through and have a damn good time and drive home with a smile on your face knowing that your $2 investment was a smart move.............

So............is that bearing necesary?

YES it is.........or HPI wouldn't have designed the box to take the darn thing.

I was speaking from MY experience, as both scenario's I just mentioned were not hypothetical..........they happened to me!!!!!

So.....please don't rag me for my input........i'm only trying to help others from my experiences....

If you have a different opinion please word it differently so as not to step on other peoples toe's...

We are all here to help one and other any way we can.......and have fun.

So please be kind:)
 
Rossco, I reread my post and the only thing I could see was that I disagreed with you, so I am at a loss how I could word it differently so as "not to step on other people's toes".

As for your suggestion that you could finish the day's running using the layshaft to hold the broken chassis together, I can only restate my case... you are suggesting that you add the bearing in case the rear brace breaks, aren't you?

BTW I don't have a costly replacement rear brace.

I am not being unkind, just disagreeing with you.
 
tonystott said:
I am at a loss how I could word it differently so as "not to step on other people's toes".
As for your suggestion that you could finish the day's running using the layshaft to hold the broken chassis together, I can only restate my case... you are suggesting that you add the bearing in case the rear brace breaks, aren't you?QUOTE]

Ok Tony....Wording a disagreement differently would be to not state the name of the person you are disagreeing with or by a direct quote......

" I disagree with a previous post.....my opinion is........." would be far less personal.

I didn't say the layshaft holds the broken chassis together.....only that the layshaft wont flap around and strip gears with that bearing in there.

I broke the brace without that bearing.....and it stripped the spur instantly.

I also broke that brace again about 3 weeks later with the bearing in place and I ran 3 tanks through it with minimal wear on the spur.

If you talk to anyone who races baja's they will say to put that bearing in there also.

I'm not knocking your opinion......your'e entitled to it....but why would the gearbox have a provision for it if it wasn't nessesary.

A stock RTR may not need it...but when you have anything modded or a big bore which produces huge power.....that bearing is recomended.

Just my opinion.

Rossco.
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midwestguy69 said:
What is this missing bearing ppl talk about on the km models?
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See that little plastic ring near the top right of the pliers. That is the plastic clip that takes the place of the missing bearing. It sits behind the rubber boot you see the shaft coming out of. If you look at the plastic diff case on the right you will see a bearing in the top left of it. Now look at the bottom left one and that is where you install the missing bearing to match the other.

With the bearing I do agree you can pull on the shaft left to right and it will not bend near as much as with the plastic clip thingy. :)
 
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Not sure, its been said they have upgraded some of them. You will have to check if yours has it. Its a standard size bearing so easy to get.
 
I hope it has it, i never tore a diff apart yet but i do need the experience i guess. I should just tear the whole damn thing down and put it together to get familiar with it. But my luck is i wouldn't get it back running lmao!:p
 
midwestguy69 said:
Ahhh so my new Km 29cc i will have to put a bearing in?
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If you got the KM 2.0 the bearing is allready there.... atleast on mine it was... I got mine like month and a half ago...

But to clarify the KM 2.0 has the bearing and the rubber seal on that side... I think it was mentioned in a earlier post :) that the bearing would replace the rubber seal and the metal whasher/spacer/clip ... in this case KM left the rubber seal on...

Maybe the new rubber seal is thinner than the old one... I don't know, I've never seen the old one...

Also the new KM 2.0 has an alloy Diff... maybe they just updated to include the bearing while updating the Diff.... I did open the Diff to find that it was not filled up to my liking... so I refilled using 15K.... I'll see how diferent it handles in the dirt soon.... waiting for my chassis.
 
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Good job on looking for the diff oil. Very common item forgotten in most models. Not sure why its forgotten. They must fill them on Mondays or Fridays. :laugh:
 
Will do, i paid for it monday but i was told by the guy that deals in them it was lost lol... So he told my wife today it came back to him and it is going out monday....
 
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