King Motors X2 RTR 30.5cc

[crankestein]

IF YOU ARE THINKING OF BUYING A X2, READ ON, AT LEAST UP TO POST #15.

Next week should be receiving my new King Motors X2 RTR w 30.5cc 4 bolt motor and tuned pipe. :lol:

This is going to be my thread, will be loaded with tons of pictures, teardown, build etc.

In transit submit my input from shipping, packaging, customer service, truck itself and a plethora of bunch of other stuff.

Cheers!

 

[Revolauncher]

Where are you located, Crank? These X2's are popping up all over, I like mine a lot.

 

[crankestein]

Maryland/ Baltimore area.
I opened a new card cause Costco is breaking contract w Amex, and they (credit card company) offered $200 credit on the first grand.

Paid some bills plus the truck with the cc, an instant 200 off, perfect timing.
Cant wait til it arrives, on the meantime burning some time w a nitro 1/8 Serpent/XR8.

 

[Revolauncher]

First thing you'll notice is a box the size of a coffee table! Best thing is it'll mostly be full of truck and gear! New truck smell, can't beat it....

 

[BIGDADDYSHIMMY]

The house smelled like a new tire store for a whole day! Motorhead heaven.

 

[crankestein]

It finally arrived, super fast 3rd day delivery via UPS, excellent packaging, signature required but I opened an account w UPS and signed online beforehand.

Overall the truck looks solid and of very high quality. No leaking diffs (got to check if there is any oil at all, but they do feel heavy w significant resistance). Entry level rtr type Tx MT-3D, receiver MR-3D, servos KM4500 for both w built in fail safe (no kill switch). The only issue so far is the rubber grommet for the tuned pipe is cracked, sent pm to Kingmotorrc, waiting for reply. Bunch of aluminum parts...

 

[Revolauncher]

Torn down like Christmas morning wrapping paper! GONE!

 

[crankestein]

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* This is a short clip at idle, first tank 25 to 1 mix 93 octane.

Bicycle mtb tubing (for on road) on the shocks and air filter so it does not unscrew under vibration. Also installed green pad circle as you can see on the air filter, to filter out the big chunks, and preserve the foam for smaller particles.


Its not a virgin anymore!

OMG, this truck is sick, I am on my 3rd tank and does it sound beastie. Coming from 1/8 nitros that I hawl them hard, the more I pushed the throttle, the better it ran.

Starts on the 1st or 2nd pull at 28F no problem, smooth idling. The flywheel mesh mod is well worth it, tons of grass, leaves jammed under the engine.

Taking it easy, giving it a few blips and quick power passes, but letting it cool off and idle. Installed a kill switch, but got to check as once or twice activated itself.

Did the mosquito mesh flywheel mod.




** 30.5cc, started on the 2nd pull, smooth idling, super easy to tune. I am on my 2nd tank...









** Why you should always tear apart your RTR and do a complete inspection bumper to bumper, completely dry differential.







The truck is a beauty, super solid construction. all bolts and nuts fit perfect. It arrived with threadlocker everywhere, but I still went ahead and strip it down and reapplied locktite blue color.








So far the only thing bad was an empty rear diff, all shocks halfway filled, broken shock boots (I covered them anyway with MTB tubes) and the fail safe was set for steering instead of throttle. My main issue was, the whole truck was lockedtited with super strong threadlock, had to use the torch and spray lubricant to loosen the engine mount bolts. A broken tuned pipe mount, for now I am getting away with a pocket bike polyurethane mount from one of my bikes. Kingmotorrc is sending me a spare tuned pipe mount and spare engine mount bolts.
Should have the kill switch set tonight, and have the truck ready for a few video clips tomorrow.

 

[BIGDADDYSHIMMY]

Thanks for sharing Crank. I just picked up some stainless mesh for my motor last week going to do just what you did on your motor. Did you use JB weld?

 

[crankestein]

JB Weld

Got the idea from RC Sparks video.

Watch out for epoxy on the other side when it dries out. No big deal, moving the flywheel back and forth got rid of any dried drops and came off.
I did it on lighter coats, two applications, did a mix per window, scraped the surface w flat screwdriver or cardboard cutter, pre-cut the screens, applied the mix then lined up the screen. With an ice pick or something sharp scrape off any jb weld that falls on the center engine block gasket or any screw holes. It does not have to be perfect as a dremmel can take care of small pieces if I need to teardown the engine someday.

It works, I carry in my toolbox a wire brush and a toothbrush and in between tanks clear out the mesh for airflow.

On a side note now that I am replying, wow, is this engine and pipe insane once it wakes up. The motor is super loud, but I love it. These little monsters the more you push them to the edge the better they run, classic 2 stroke high r3v powa!

 

[crankestein]

bugs

The bugs continue...

Carburetor floater stopped working flooding the engine.

Installed broken tuned pipe mount.
I was able to make it run by using the lower floater portion from a pocket bike reed carburetor. On my second jump the polymer intake manifold cracked, had to be at the beginning of my days off. It really pushes my patience to the edge. A metal intake manifold is on order.

I have seen the broken manifold issue on pocket bikes, I just did not thought was going to happen so quick although.I knew I had to change it. The item was ordered a few days before it broke.

Its one of those weeks where everything goes wrong. Decided to go run my bullet proof nitro buggy w .21. The same buggy as always nothing changed. Took it to the field and the rear left shock blew up, come back home swap the rear set. Go back to rip the nicely packed soccer field. All of a sudden halfway on the 1st tank the clutch gave away. Come back home fix the clutch, go back and halfway on the 2nd tank an airleak. The .21 engine ran fine, checked the cylinder bolts, carb bolts... later will verify the backplate bolts, could not check them cause the muffler was in the middle. This is all on the nitro buggy, when things happen they happen. So I am out of two, got some work ahead of me, later then.

... 25Dec

Got the buggy squared away. It was not the clutch, the rear cvd was loose making it seem it was a bad clutch. The airleak turn out to be the throttle linkage had excessive play, super threadlock and done. Back to the soccer field, ran it to the ground until the fail safe enabled do to low battery. Jump aftet jump the nitro buggy was flawless, on the throttle upon landing w a 16T clutchbell and although 4WD it would willy upon landing. :lol:

 

[crankestein]

Went to the field and decided to try out the new carb. Within 5 minutes the truck slowed down significantly, and some gear noise. Shut it down and attempted to start it again, and nothing. Had to close both needles and crank it a few times until it finally started and died. Opened both needles then it ran again. Shut it and took it home, opened up the clutch to notice a few things. Removed the spring and put the shoes back bolting it down.

The shoes would not move WITHOUT the spring until significant force was applied. The wavy washers have too much bend basically kinking the shoes. Remove some of the bend. Was able to move the shoes testing without the spring. Sanded off the moving surfaces w 400 paper. Slapped everything back up and took it for a spin, still the truck would not move much. Back home... opened the center diff and one of the shims left a mark inside the housing. Its way too tight ( see pics) . Tomorrow is diff day troubleshooting w clutch basics 101.

The round silver section is the marking the diff shim did, that is not a washer. The diff 100k oil when new was clear and now is dark w significant metal shavings.
There is something not right on the center diff.


Also, that intake manifold cracked slightly and at the beginning I thought it was tuning, drove it and back, retune, so for a period of 4 to 5 minutes the engine was sucking unfiltered air and dust. When I removed the engine from the truck saw there was some residue inside the pipe and on the intake sidr where the manifold broke. A engine that barely has 4 tanks, I am simply dumbfounded. Why they install a plastic manifold I really don't know. Do yourself a favor and throw away the manifold and get a metal one, do the same for the fancy airbox, its trash, go buy a Losi stock unit which is around 15 at DDM. No matter how much threadlock and torque the filter cap gets loose. For now the filter has a bikr tire piece around it.
I am getting to the point of cleaning up the truck, put it back on the box it came and into storage until I get my momentum again. Once again the nitro buggy to the rescue, lap after lap on the soccer field, 3 hrs of punishment the nitro buggy endured, VP powermaster fuel 20%.

 

[crankestein]

The Return of the Bugs continues...

As if the carburetor, pull start, muffler mount, kill switch was not enough, the bugs continue.



Rear Diff

Those shinny particles are not reflections of the stars in the middle of the day, but the gears eaten up.





The edge is all gone and in an angle. This is a truck that has not been ridden a full tank yet, incredible...
I made sure all the diffs had proper amount of diff oil, I followed the instructions by Horizon Hobby for the Losi 5ive diff maintenance found on Youtube.

** Took for a test run after receiving the carburetor and metal intake manifold, and in less than 5 minutes the rear and center diff both failed!



Center diff, the same issue, this is the second batch of grease/ heavy duty oil, and its already black again.



The outer edge is gone and in an angle, the same as the rear diff, excessive spinning, and lots of binding. At the beginning I thought it was the clutch, then I thought it was the oil was not too heavy sending the weight to the front tires, but no, the center diff gave up under stress.


Small video clip (removed the boot from the cvd to detect if the diff pinion or diff housing was the issue).

Testing rear diff

- I am holding one wheel with my right leg, and the left wheel with my forearm, and at the same time hitting the throttle. The rear diff and also the center diff, both gear edges failed, even after applying 100K in the center and 10k in the rear.

Last but not least...

Placed diff gears on gasoline to remove the heavy grease oil, and filtered out the fuel.

 

[BIGDADDYSHIMMY]

Hmm this has me thinking spool for a center diff upgrade next.

 

[crankestein]

I guess this is the end of the road for me in my exactly 12 days of 1/5 scale fame.

Blown diffs, bad pull start, bad carburetor, broken tuned pipe mount, broken intake manifold. This awesome combination has been a testing of my patient limits, and I finally hit rock bottom. The broken intake manifold made the engine suck dirt and dust, hurting the engine internals (and it almost caused a runaway), which within the next tank or so finally killed the engine.

Yes, must say it, I got what I paid for, you live, you learn. The company responded to warranty up to a point, but the blown diffs, and broken manifold, have not heard from them.

I got plenty of experience on 2 stroke engines, so I am no noob on this stuff. Got a X7, X1, a mini chopper, a air cooled Blata 2.5 which is a blast to ride. But when parts don't have the proper clearances, like the clutch shims super tight, loose differential shimming (and no oil whatsoever), there is so much I can do. One of the things that hurt the most was the cheap plastic intake manifold which had me troubleshooting for a while. Everything looked tight, but it was slightly cracked. Why would they make such piece of low quality material knowingly a carburetor and a aluminum air filter will be attached to it, plus jumps, and engine vibration, is recipe for failure.



To add into the mix of awesomeness broken parts, I used medium strength locktite on the magneto, and the bolt got loose anyway, destroying part of the flywheel.

So after spent $850 or so on the truck, its the heaviest paperweight so far.

Today went back to the soccer field on the 1/8th scale nitro buggy, and ran out of fuel, almost two hours non-stop, cooling every other tank. I got this SportWerks Mayhem Pro with the same differential from 8 years ago, only opened them once to do a quick check, since then have not wrenched them once, and still running strong. This is a truck with less than 2 tanks of fuel, 12 days into it, hours of wrenching to make it work, until the damn thing just keeps breaking, yep, my wife is pissed off, nice.

Maybe at some point I can salvage the parts once I buy what I should have done from the beginning, buy a Losi 5ive T. So I don't feel that bad, at least I got a spare parts truck from when I acquire the 5ive...

The company is not at fault, but it is what it is...

The truck has a spot reserved on the 3rd picture.

 

[nitrocat]

Well I'm sorry you had a bad experience with your truck
But you have my respect for you to tell others about your problems with it most just quit and never post what went wrong with there truck
So others get them with out being informed
I've been around them and if you don't have one its me just bashing the truck is what most think
When in fact it's not

If it was not just a normal encounter with the truck
I'd have got one or two of them just to build from because of the price

But I did have one of the two wheel trucks and it was the same way
Just couldn't keep it running

 

[Revolauncher]

Wow! How can you and I have such different experiences with the same truck? It's not like I have babied mine....I will say this though: that manifold material is used everywhere by almost every RTR large scale manufacturer there is. The diff. failures I can't begin to understand because you can measure and feel the differences in tolerances before a failure like that. Shocking that it went so wrong so fast for you. It made me double check my gear to see if something had worn in or changed on mine. Nope, still right as rain here for me. I had warned you about the air filter, but not early enough, apparently. Sorry....

 

[crankestein]

From PB experience I knew the polymer intake manifold goes bad, I had one on order before it cracked, but never expected it was going to happen so fast. On PB its hit or miss, half have em still plastic and the other halve is metal.

The fancy air filter is crap, I got to wrap it with a piece of bicycle rubber, that sounded weird lol, to hold the tip in place... ja ja ja, man gotta laugh so as not to cry.

I tested the gears before assembly, they rotated smooth back and forth. I blame it on a bad batch RTR. Just to make sure I followed this video
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q47xYxf8TnU"]5ive differential assembly video[/ame] and followed all steps, there was no binding, no overfill and used quality diff oil. No over torquing etc.

I was able to place 4 washers to push in the diff gears and make contact on the center and rear diff. It somewhat worked, Losi set is coming in the mail, so took it out and within the first 5 minutes again I noticed it was dancing everywhere and not holding a straight line. Went to check out and the front cvd failed, look at pictures. It moves back and forth with no pin. I had read about them failing so I applied heavy duty grease for cv joints.

I could not hold it and ran it until I finally seized the engine. Its insane, almost a grand in a pile of useless parts. In the middle of Xmas when it was suppose to chill with my son on the field, got no words to describe.

Back home all dirty and full of mud and ditched it in a corner. Grab the nitro buggy and drove it like I stole it 42 degrees outside. The more I pulled the trigger the better it ran, more than 38 ounces of VP 20% nitro and the damn .21 V2 engine never failed. Had no more fuel, it was cold, my hands were hurting, and could barely see at all. It was a good driving session and walked away w a smile on my face...

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*A video of the broken front cvd


Although looks the same shows the cvd w excessive play.



** scuff marks happened when the manifold broke. The engine was already hurt so did the Permatex AKA Yamabond mod and worked, never had an air leak and ran strong.



I was pissed off when I saw the front cvd failure and ran it thru dirt mud water and some got inside warping the piston crown.

So as of right now, less than two weeks and on EBAY and multiple stores trying to get parts...

an engine, partially my fault, but also of the cheap manifold
3 differentials as all of them are junk
front cvd pin, boots and clips, and cvd (excessive wear)
intake manifold
carburetor (KM sent me one, but I still went ahead and bought another one)
pull start (KM sent me one and a few spark plugs, I bought a few jic)

The mayhem continues, front diff!





* All other gears seem fine, maybe some tad bit wear but nothing crazy. Thats premature parts failure.


I am buying the complete drivetrain Losi brand.

HAVE SENT PICS TO KINGMOTORSRC, no words from them...


That is NOT normal wear of the dog bones ends for a truck that has been run no more than 30 minutes if anything one hour to push it.


The front diff, contrary to what I had thought, was the one that sustained the most damage. I checked frequently for binding, any roughness, skipping, it still boggles my mind.

 

[ppapabear]

Thank you for sharing your experience; sorry to see what you've gone through but it definitely helps us those of us looking to gain perspective. I was on the fence between buying a Losi 5ive T roller directly from Losi or one of the clones, looks like it will be the roller directly from Losi for me.

 

[crankestein]

30.5cc Fuelie New engine w pics!? OMG

So, had a cool off week. Didnt even touch the truck which right its in pieces, and bought a brand new engine 30.5cc from KingMotorRC/RovanRC (both are the same company).

This is what I received.











A scuffed cylinder head and piston. It did not pass the nail test, it will get stuck. On top of that, its up to me to send it back to get another one. Why would I need to pay for shipping if its their fault? Let me take it back, he sent a return shipping label, but took a few emails to make them rethink the situation.

I regret everyday that I bought this truck. Right in the middle of Christmas, the worst decision I have made. And it was not that I wasnt ready like others say. The funny thing is I flip pocket bikes, tinker w them and make some cash, but this truck is a money pit, so many things wrong, the drive train is junk, garbage. I should have stayed nitro, and never jumped into the 1/5th scale. Spent the holidays blasting the nitro buggies and the nitro 1/8 Serpent.

I am very sorry for Dan, as he has kept in touch during this whole process up to a point, but I got to give my personal opinion.

If I would do it all over again, Losi all the way. Its a gamble getting one of this trucks. I am now in the process buying all diff internals Losi brand, around 150 to 200 more in partsand thats not counting the engine.