Locktite all metal-to-metal screws before use

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Dear Members,
I agree all nuts and bolts should be inspected before every run.
As far as loctite I never use it on the motor, I run a Vekta 5 and a Losi 5ive-T and never experienced a loose motor fastener.
I use a ratchet drill and start out on a low setting and work my way up util the fastener breaks free. I have had much success in preventing stripped bolt heads.
My Vekta 5 has given me the most problems removing fasteners. The factory has poor quality control during assembly, some fasteners have tons of loctite while others have none. I have read and purchased almost every type of easy out for removing stripped fasteners.
I always strip at least one bolt head with every disassemble. Maybe just bad Luck?
I just had a rear drive shaft bolt on my Vekte 5 break free, it was not pretty the rear shaft came apart, I lost the female part of the assembly.
It put a large hole in the gas tank and blue out two transmission bearings. I inspected the fasteners but discovered no loctite on the drive shaft bolt. Just a side note, one bold without loctite costed me a new gas tank, a complete driveshaft assembly and transmission bearings.
Best Regards,
William E. Burrows Jr.



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I am generally NOT a fan of Loctite on aluminum. There is certain circumstances where it's necessary but over the years I've learned that using antisieze is more advantageous vs. Loctite . Antisieze allows for a more precise torque, and eliminates galling of the threads (very important when fitting cheap steel fasteners into aluminum threads . Bolts loosen up from harmonics and vibration. Antisieze tends to absorb and dull these vibrations and bolts stay tight. The other indirect benefit is components bolter together using antisieze come apart with minimal effort.
 
I am generally NOT a fan of Loctite on aluminum. There is certain circumstances where it's necessary but over the years I've learned that using antisieze is more advantageous vs. Loctite . Antisieze allows for a more precise torque, and eliminates galling of the threads (very important when fitting cheap steel fasteners into aluminum threads . Bolts loosen up from harmonics and vibration. Antisieze tends to absorb and dull these vibrations and bolts stay tight. The other indirect benefit is components bolter together using antisieze come apart with minimal effort.
great info (y)
 
Ive got my new, never even started Rovan 36cc engine completely dissasembled for inspection , blueprinting and reassembly. Ive found several issues ill detail in a new thread. What a royal PIA removing the loctited bolts ! Almost to where i was sure the hex sockets were going to strip out ! I ended up carefully using a propane torch and this helped. My engine is going back together with mostly antisieze except for the main clutch hub bolt, this im planning on loctiting.
 
Ive got my new, never even started Rovan 36cc engine completely dissasembled for inspection , blueprinting and reassembly. Ive found several issues ill detail in a new thread. What a royal PIA removing the loctited bolts ! Almost to where i was sure the hex sockets were going to strip out ! I ended up carefully using a propane torch and this helped. My engine is going back together with mostly antisieze except for the main clutch hub bolt, this im planning on loctiting.
yeah the loctite rovan uses is sum crazy stuff. i almost snapped a bolt cuz of theyre loctite. i like to heat it up b4 trying to remove it
 
The last RTR I had I just bit the bullet and got a Tony's full screw kit and sat down even before its first run and changed out every screw on the car and I know this sounds a bit extreme but its is the best way to nip this problem in the butt with cheap soft RTR screws that never stay tight. Doing it this way pays off big in long run...........
 
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Do not loctite the bolts on the engine or the bolts that mount the engine. Blue loctite will completely liquefy at around 300 degrees F. your motor has a potential of reaching that temp so the blue will not be effective. Torquing each bolt is a better way to get them to stay than using loctite. I would suggest using a stud on the exhaust instead of a bolt then you can use red loctite on that. Motor bolts are just something that needs to be checked on a regular basis but you will likely find a good tightness range that keeps them secure. other metal to metal bolts are always good to loctite providing that you do not over tighten them when installing or use a little heat when removing like heating the bolt with a soldering iron first to break down the loctite. I have definitely stripped more bolts than I have lost so be careful and you should be just fine
Button head screws with lock washers work for me.
 
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