Losi LST wheel nut removal

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Bogan Thunder

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i bought a used LST nitro yesterday as i didn't have one these.
inside the 24mm hex nut is a 5mm nut that i have removed on all 4 and the best part was the left side has left handed threads that requires a clock wise turn to remove it but lucky i assumed that and i removed them with issue, i have attempted to use a heat gun on the wheel nut but the 24mm socket has started to slip on the nut.
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i got one wheel off but i have too cut the wheels at the spokes to remove the other three as the wheel spins on the hex output the foams are crap anyway.
what a crap design using two nuts to hold on a wheel and it failed...what ever happen to just using one wheel nut that works.
 
lol i tried one last time i removed both from the truck and jammed some metal blades in the edges to fill the gap but they both still turn inside the wheel..i got to cut the wheels to remove them
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the previous owner put blue locktite on the wheel nuts and tighten as hard as possible :facepalm:
i'm replacing the blue 24mm hex output drive with 17mm and will use truggy wheels that are over 200gram lighter each it will loose some top speed but will be quick like a truggy.
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Find yourself a thin walled socket and cheap rattle gun. I've been putting all my large scale wheel hexes on and taking them off with an impact for years. Just don't go buy some 3000lb/ft gun.
 
Find yourself a thin walled socket and cheap rattle gun
if a wheel nut has been locktited it will benefit with a rattle gun it's the first wheels i have come across that have been locktited.
i have always use a socket ratchet for my wheels and haven't had a problem.
 
if a wheel nut has been locktited it will benefit with a rattle gun it's the first wheels i have come across that have been locktited.
i have always use a socket ratchet for my wheels and haven't had a problem.
I've always used loctite on wheel nuts that don't have a nylock nut.
 
Yep. And I loctite it all. As long as you don't use red or green loctite everything will come off with a mediocre impact.
I always use blue loctite when no nylock nuts are involved just like you.

I guess I'm not understanding why the small nut had anything to do with removing the big nut that holds the wheel on.
 
Seen it before, just don't remember what......maybe to adapt wheels that aren't made for the factory hex, thinking proline thing. Be amazed at what a few seconds with small butane torch can do. Heat can be a great friend, pinpoint accurate with the small torch!!
 
Seen it before, just don't remember what......maybe to adapt wheels that aren't made for the factory hex, thinking proline thing. Be amazed at what a few seconds with small butane torch can do. Heat can be a great friend, pinpoint accurate with the small torch!!
Ahh. I hadn't considered those being adapters. Makes sense.

Yes, heat is your friend with stubborn fasteners.
 
I've always used loctite on wheel nuts that don't have a nylock nut.
it does have a nylon nut.

Doesn't the small nut hold the axle stub in the hub and the large blue one hold on the wheel?
that's true bro i didn't really know that i should of known better.

Yep. And I loctite it all. As long as you don't use red or green loctite everything will come off with a mediocre impact.
the previous owner did loctitie it all with blue but if the wheel nut requires to much force to remove then in this case the inside wheel hex spun instead.

Seen it before, just don't remember what......maybe to adapt wheels that aren't made for the factory hex, thinking proline thing. Be amazed at what a few seconds with small butane torch can do. Heat can be a great friend, pinpoint accurate with the small torch!!
just this morning before reading this thread i was using a torch and they both tapped out easy in the vise.

i'm not sure if these are original Losi hex hubs the shaft is 6mm i want to replace the blue 24mm with 17mm i have to take a look i might have them already or i will just buy some.
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i was reading this recently in the Losi LST manual i actually didn't read this part i missed it...lucky i guess correctly when removing them.
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i was reading on a another forum a member recommend converting to lst2 axles and a-arms/c-hubs and replace the oem 20mm hub with a 17mm.
 
My 5ive B has lower shock mounting screws that are chrome left and black for right.
mine as well and i'm glad i didn't snap them unlike on my mcd rr5 and that was my first encounter with a left handed thread on a rc car and those two snapped bolts are stuck in those 2 lower arms forever.
 
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