LSN on the lean side or engine dies

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kikkeraap

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LSN lean side or engine dies (update, is it dead?)

Update: see post #18&#28
Finally my brand new KSRC001 arrived and after having charged the battery it was time to fuel the thing up and fire. But there the adventure stopped, no sign of life (following the well known start procedure).
The first step was closing the needles and setting it bach to 'factory', meaning 1.5 for HSN and 1.25 for LSN. Again no success. I took out the spark plug and it was wet, so fuel entered the engine, but that was it.
My final attempt in getting the enginge running was fully closing the needles (clockwise turn, and yes I know it very very lean). To my surprise after 3 pulls with the choke, it made some noise. I set the choke off, and after 2 pulls it fired :D but it died fast. I repeated the start procedure and immediately opened the needles and the engine did his job.
Currently my settings are HSN: 1.5 turns and LSN 0.6 turns. I have got a question regarding the LSN, it on the very low side compared to a factory setting. Do I have running it too lean?

I would like to make one side note: I can richen the LSN a bit more, but then the engine stalls. Only if I put the idle screw more in, I'm able to richen the LSN a bit, up to ± 0.8 turns out, but the idle is screwed fully in.
 
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uou may have weak spark, check it , pull plug out and pop on the plug boot and hold against metal of engine and pull the rope, look at plug for a good strong spark. if not good, coil gap may need reset by methods used by most of a business card placed between flywheel and coil . ya have to loosen the coil mount screws, place card in there and retighten the mount bolts again, pull the card out and your gap is set on coil.
 
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Sometimes there are bad parts, sometimes not. Basically I would recommend getting a real HPI carb for it and that should cure any problems you have. Make sure it is a REAL HPI carb, not a KM/Rovan knock off. I got one and it made a difference on bottom end power.
 
well not necessarily a "Real" hpi carb since the hpi carb/engines are knockoffs also, what you want is the real walbro carb 668 is the stocker, 813-990 are the other options, there are a few more models to chose from, but these are the more popular of the walbro carbs
 
chitown joe said:
well not necessarily a "Real" hpi carb since the hpi carb/engines are knockoffs also, what you want is the real walbro carb 668 is the stocker, 813-990 are the other options, there are a few more models to chose from, but these are the more popular of the walbro carbs
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Thanks for making that clear there is no real HPI carb!!!!!!
 
Make sure the carb is tight as well. I had mine come loose and had issues like yours. If its going now check for air leaks. Could just be a simple tighten of screws ;)

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rcspeedmart said:
Thanks for making that clear there is no real HPI carb!!!!!!
Click to expand...

i take it your referring to the hpi packaged carb? sure it's a real hpi carb , but not a real walbro carb, that is what i referred to, why buy a hpi/clone when you can get the real walbro carb,
maybe i worded wrong but we are all big kids here and should be able to determine what i meant, instead of dwelling on the small things
 
the stock hpi carb is #15460 a wt-527 carb,hpi claims it's a walbro, last time i held one it was not a walbro,had xiang or something on the side,after looking up the wt-527 thats more like lawn equipment carb
 
I knew the original was a real one didnt know they started using a clone. Kind of funny when you think about it. Hpi was so active going after the china clones, but they are doing the same thing to save a few bucks. And the 517 is a weed eater carb. The xiang is the carb that was on my km 30.5 when i got it.

Even funnier is that the new 18th scale mini monster truck is a exact clone of the megatech mega pro/pro-pulse truck that radio shack sold 3 or 4 years ago. Even the esc is the same ex the heat sink is a dif color.

Looks like Hpi is a clone company as well.
 
chitown joe said:
well not necessarily a "Real" hpi carb since the hpi carb/engines are knockoffs also, what you want is the real walbro carb 668 is the stocker, 813-990 are the other options, there are a few more models to chose from, but these are the more popular of the walbro carbs
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I didnt say it was a Walbro carb, what I meant is it runs alot better than the stock thing that came with my KM.
 
Just to give you an update. The situation has not changed. In order to keep it running, it is on ± 0.7 turns out, the idle screw is about half way. Meanwhile I made sure that the ignition coil cap / flywheel is alright. Furhtermore, I found not a leak at the carb (using WD40).
 
kikkeraap said:
Just to give you an update. The situation has not changed. In order to keep it running, it is on ± 0.7 turns out, the idle screw is about half way. Meanwhile I made sure that the ignition coil cap / flywheel is alright. Furhtermore, I found not a leak at the carb (using WD40).
Click to expand...

Try turning your idle in more..that should allow you to richer your low speed needle
 
Tonight I took the baja out. All went fine, but after the car tumbled, the engine died right away. I tried to restart the engine, but no success. Up to now it will not run. I did check the following items:
There's a spark, the ignition coil gaps is all right, the spark plug is wet. After a few pulls, the engine backfires, but that's it. Any ideas?
 
kikkeraap said:
Tonight I took the baja out. All went fine, but after the car tumbled, the engine died right away. I tried to restart the engine, but no success. Up to now it will not run. I did check the following items:
There's a spark, the ignition coil gaps is all right, the spark plug is wet. After a few pulls, the engine backfires, but that's it. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Its your sparkplug wire i garantee it. I sell them for 7 usd shipped chitownjoe sells then for 8 and 10 and dsm sells them. They just unscrew from the coil.

When you rolled it you damaged the terminal so the spark arcs twice. Once at terminal then at the plug. This causes weaker spark and throws of timming.

Now if your brave grab the boot and give it a pull and get a shock. But really put on welding gloves grab the boot and pull it it will go a little till you pull your hand off. Amp3d had the same problem till he put in my wire so ask him.

If you don't want to wait for shipping go to your local auto parts store get a set of wires with a 90• boot. I prefer copper core wires but others like a carbon/graphite core so the choice is yours. I also like 7mm wire as it gives the best fit. If you have a orileys near you get the cheapest wire set they have for a 350 69 camero. They are 7mm copper core for like 20 bucks. I ran them once when I was waiting to get more wire in.
 
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Would issue be timing related? Could something have happened wit the flywheel/woodruff key, eventhough I did not touch the flywheel?
 
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