LSN on the lean side or engine dies

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kikkeraap said:
Would issue be timing related? Could something have happened wit the flywheel/woodruff key, eventhough I did not touch the flywheel?
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No it's your plug wire. Km and even cy zen use a spring terminal which are prone to lossening after a roll. I don't care if you buy my wire just change it and it will run just fine.
 
kikkeraap said:
Would issue be timing related? Could something have happened wit the flywheel/woodruff key, eventhough I did not touch the flywheel?
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so what have you done so far? looks like it was not working then it was not it's not again?
you running a kill switch?
did you check your kill button? make sure its not stuck in
check the plug make it's got good spark?, no spark try another one
still no spark check the ignition wire from the boot to the coil, you gonna have to take the back half of the engine off but its one of those necessary evils.
if you have a voltmeter you will need an additional set of hands i found that a drill on low to med speed with a socket on the flywheel nut to turn the engine over but try to have someone do it while trying to get a voltage off of it,
still no reading but you should get something , but if you don't unscrew the ignition wire and and try again with the voltmeter direct to the coil,
if you still get nothing then you nailed it down to the coil but if you get a decent reading then you nailed it to the wire.
 
He rolled it then it died its the wire terminal. Same exact thing happend to amp3d, to myself and 6 local guys at the bash pit. Just go get you a wire and it will be fixed.
 
chitown joe said:
so what have you done so far? looks like it was not working then it was not it's not again?
you running a kill switch?
did you check your kill button? make sure its not stuck in
check the plug make it's got good spark?, no spark try another one
still no spark check the ignition wire from the boot to the coil, you gonna have to take the back half of the engine off but its one of those necessary evils.
if you have a voltmeter you will need an additional set of hands i found that a drill on low to med speed with a socket on the flywheel nut to turn the engine over but try to have someone do it while trying to get a voltage off of it,
still no reading but you should get something , but if you don't unscrew the ignition wire and and try again with the voltmeter direct to the coil,
if you still get nothing then you nailed it down to the coil but if you get a decent reading then you nailed it to the wire.
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It cannot be a killswitch, the switch is ordered but I did not recieve IT so far. What I've checked so far is: spark, ignition coil gap, plug is wet, deflooded the engine juist in case. After a fee pulls there's a bang comming out of the exhaust, that why I'm thinking it might be timing related. I'll try to get a plug cable and see.
 
check that kill button on the engine, not the kill switch but the button that comes with the engine, also check that spade termianls on the coil and button wire leads are on correctly
 
bhilly82 said:
No need all he needs is a damn wire. Why does everybody always over look this?
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well im not over looking anything , i just want him to check his all other options before having to spend money,don't spend it if he doesn't have to.
not everything wrong is going to be a bad wire,in all honety i have yet to actually meet anyone who had a bad wire on there rc, maybe came loose from coil, or the boot was not on all the way on the plug, but not the extent that the actual wire was bad i have yet to see that,i changed mine just because i wanted to not becuase i had to.
 
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Here's a little update. Today I removed the flywheel just to see if the woodruff key was alright and it was :) Put the wheel back and I'm still having the same issue. After the first pull with choke, I heard a bang out of the exhaust.
Next step: await a new spark plug (it's somewhere in LA, waiting for a plain to head to EU. Furthermore it might be the plug. When the car arrived it wouldn't start either, only after adjusting the needles and putting in a new plug). If the new plug doesn't work, then I'll have a look at the wire.

Since I should wait for the plug, I can spend time on the t-maxx. Took the engine apart, cleaned it, and will not idle (only with hitting the gas). I'm going to check for air leaks and if the piston has been placed correctly.

It's a time consuming hobby :)
 
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Today I put in a new spark plug, no success. In addition, I check the switch (OK), but I also determined the resistance and voltage that comming of the spark plug cap. The voltage went of the scale during pulling the start and the resistance was about 5k Ohm. Does anyone has got a clue? Or should I try to replace the spark plug wire?
 
by chance have you removed the head? if you did , did you reinstall the proper gaskets and spacers if any?
well with out seeing it,i cant say what it could be, could be the wire, could be the coil, could be timing, could be it just does not want to work,

this is the reason i did not want to recommend you buy something before properly checking what you can, before spending money and then it still wont work,
this sounds like when i rebuilt a engine back in jan. and it would not start that was due to the head spacing, i used a spacer when i did not need one,
 
Today I got the engine started, well.... it started but it died in 1 -2 seconds. I think their might be an airleak somewhere, so I ordered some gaskets and go from there.
 
well i wouldnt say its new, its been ran with about 2/3 gallon, did you do any pre and after run maint. ? like checking screws on the engine? if they got loose enough to create a leak, then that could be a problem, if you can get a reinforced gasket set from DDM, those work great and have a 40% crush on them that seal even the most uneven surfaces
 
chitown joe said:
check that kill button on the engine, not the kill switch but the button that comes with the engine, also check that spade termianls on the coil and button wire leads are on correctly
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Easiest way to eliminate any electrical fault is to pull the plug and check for spark if you have spark well you know thats not the problem

Troy
 
kikkeraap said:
Today I got the engine started, well.... it started but it died in 1 -2 seconds. I think their might be an airleak somewhere, so I ordered some gaskets and go from there.
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To find the airleak if it has one! if you can start it and keep the revs up high, get some wd40 and spray it around the manifold and cylinder gaskets and listen for any changes in revs if it has a leak it will rev faster

Troy
 
chitown joe said:
i take it your referring to the hpi packaged carb? sure it's a real hpi carb , but not a real walbro carb, that is what i referred to, why buy a hpi/clone when you can get the real walbro carb,
maybe i worded wrong but we are all big kids here and should be able to determine what i meant, instead of dwelling on the small things
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Thats funny you mention that because the carbie that came with my brand new Hpi Baja ss kit is a Walbro WT668B carb mounted to a cy26s engine

Troy
 
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the cy engine is something that has been popping up, the engine it had before was not a cy or zen,
the new kits at my local shop still have a no name brand in them not a cy engine,
got a manufacture date by chance?
 
chitown joe said:
the cy engine is something that has been popping up, the engine it had before was not a cy or zen,
the new kits at my local shop still have a no name brand in them not a cy engine,
got a manufacture date by chance?
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The kit version i bought is the latest HPI 5b its called 5bsuper sport came with a cy 26s and a walbro WT668B carb i still have it brand new never used in the box....... i replaced it with obr 30.5 7hp longrod with a 990 walbro

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OuttaLuck said:
To find the airleak if it has one! if you can start it and keep the revs up high, get some wd40 and spray it around the manifold and cylinder gaskets and listen for any changes in revs if it has a leak it will rev faster
Troy
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Well I tried to let her rev, but it stalls upon hitting the throttle, I or don't even have got time to hit the throttle.

chitown joe said:
well i wouldnt say its new, its been ran with about 2/3 gallon, did you do any pre and after run maint. ? like checking screws on the engine? if they got loose enough to create a leak, then that could be a problem, if you can get a reinforced gasket set from DDM, those work great and have a 40% crush on them that seal even the most uneven surfaces
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Didn't know about the reinforced gaskets. I already ordered a set of normal gaskets, but I'll keep it in mind (and I need to wait 2 / 2.5 week before a DDM shipment will arrive, since I live in the EU :()
 
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