Marder Straight line stability.

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Pantera2075

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Hey guys.

My Marder doesn't like going in a straight line under power - back end is all over the place, plus it understeers quite badly.

I've increase the toe-in on the front and it has helped a bit. What is next to try?
 
Interesting - thanks.

From that I read I have slight toe-out at the back, my diff grease is too thick, and my shockers need an overhaul.

Simples.
 
My carson attack understeers badly with power at high speed and actually I need to lift gas a bit when I want to turn. And still low speed with or without throttle gives oversteer. With traction easily tipping over and without spinning. Maybe thats just cost of weight distribution.... all weight in back. Actually just that tipping thing makes me MAD.
 
yeah, I mangled my Bajas outer roll cage and wing very quickly with grip roll, so I put a rear anti-roll bar on it. did the trick and it overstears instead of rolling, however lots of people on the forum (including me) will tell you that the rear anti-roll bar kills your corner speed.

if going fast if your aim, don't use one, if preventing grip roll is your game, one may be useful.
 
I've not been running on surfaces that give enough grip to roll it - except when i've hit short grass mid slide and it's gone straight over.

Problem i'm seeing is similar to torque steer in a fwd - under power in a straight line it almost fishtails one way then the other. I'm pretty sure main problem is rear toe setting when i've properly thought about it.
I'll soften the rear springs too.
 
what you are describing sounds like a rear tow problem.

If the rear is toed out, whichever wheel has the most grip will pull back end out, which will make you turn the oposite way. As the car turns, the wheel on the outside (which caused the problem) gets more grip, and pushes the back end out further. This makes the car unstable and fishtails out until the inside wheel lifts, and the diff takes the power away from the outside wheel, after which teh car swings straignt again, or goes the other way. Hence you get an unstable fishtail.

A little toe in gives the oposite. I.e. if you have asymetric grip, the more grippy wheel pushes the back end, causing a turn and a bit of roll which transfering weight, and grip, to the other wheel. Hence self centering.


on the 2wd models you get prety heavy understear on the power, often to the point where steering is impossible unless you tap the brake to make the front bite.
 
Sounds sensible. The funny thing is, if this was happening on my 1:1 i'd know what it was straight away.
I'll have a fiddle over the weekend and report back.
 
don't forget it may not all be down to the car setup. A heavy throttle finger will cause you all sorts of problems as well. The car can only do so much whatever the setup. I have this problem quite a lot :clown:
 
^ There may be some truth there, I really don't get on wth trigger/wheel, and my stick controller still hasn't turned up (Must dig out my old Futaba this morning)
 
^ There may be some truth there, I really don't get on wth trigger/wheel, and my stick controller still hasn't turned up (Must dig out my old Futaba this morning)

I saw the Core RC set that you are getting as soon as it came out & snapped 1 up. Its an excellent set for the price - ease of use, range, settings, quality etc are all up there with the more expensive sets IMO. Its a bit of a bargain which is prob why there are none left in the country :cool2: It will be worth the wait :D
 
Right, I have rear toe-in. Dunno how much exactly, but it's there. Ran today on loose dirt/gravel. More than tiny bit of throttle causes donuts or back end trying to overtake the front - always left direction first. Could it be my diff?
 
We use them as panel fixings on our 1:1 cars - as they are GRP. They can be araldited in. I was just wondering it theres enough meat in the hubs to take them.
 
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