More Dynamite kill switch questions

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Woody5t

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Just picked up an old used 5T, and I wanted to get this Dynamite kill switch installed before I run it too much. The instructions for the jumpers are a bit vague - I've seen contradictory advice for this - Do I have the way I understand the diagram shown correctly here in the attached image? The truck came with (2) 6v 3000mAh batteries, not sure how healthy they are. Should I use the 5V or the 4V cut-off setting? I've also been seeing conflicting info on connecting to the coil - positive or negative closest to the engine? I was planning on just keeping the polarity the same as however it is now?
Thanks!

DYNAMITE_KILLSWITCH_JUMPERS.webp
 
Polarity doesn't really matter on the coil as both touching is what kills the engine. If you have a genuine zenoah there is a + and - sign looking down at the terminals. I personally set it to 4v and I know it's wrong as it can drag the battery below safe. I race my rigs so my run time never allows me to deplete the battery to the point that it's dangerously low and I won't be able to charge it again. Get a 7000mah battery from ddm it's a lipo, definitely ditch those 6v 3000mah batteries
 
I have one of those DDM lipo batteries. I stopped using it because of the hassle getting it in and out of the radio box on my 5ive B for safe storage. It has two charges on it. I ended up having a Ni-MH, 6 volt, 5000 mili amp battery built by batteries America. I actually prefer the slower speed of the steering with it versus the lipo. I don't race though so theres that.

Heck, I forgot to change the settings on my kill switch since changing batteries. I need to see what I have it set at.
 
Rep732 said:
Polarity doesn't really matter on the coil as both touching is what kills the engine. If you have a genuine zenoah there is a + and - sign looking down at the terminals. I personally set it to 4v and I know it's wrong as it can drag the battery below safe. I race my rigs so my run time never allows me to deplete the battery to the point that it's dangerously low and I won't be able to charge it again. Get a 7000mah battery from ddm it's a lipo, definitely ditch those 6v 3000mah batteries
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hi mate would u not use this i gen or extra weight for no reason

https://taylorrc.co.uk/collections/...ator-to-charge-your-battery-zen-cy-etc-engine
 
gotya :cool:
i like the fact i never have to charge battery so allways ready to go but if used on lipo you still have to balance it now and then
ok for me as i no like lipo with kids in house
 
Appreciate the replies so far! I do plan on upgrading the battery at some point. I was hoping with installing the kill switch I could get away with using the batteries it came with for the time being. I probably won't get many more chances to drive it before winter. I picked this truck up used, so still trying to figure out what all it's going to need upgraded/replaced.
Back to the original question - do I understand it correctly the way the jumpers need to be? If I pull out the red jumper it will kill the engine when the battery hits 4V?
Thanks!
 
Woody5t said:
Just picked up an old used 5T, and I wanted to get this Dynamite kill switch installed before I run it too much. The instructions for the jumpers are a bit vague - I've seen contradictory advice for this - Do I have the way I understand the diagram shown correctly here in the attached image? The truck came with (2) 6v 3000mAh batteries, not sure how healthy they are. Should I use the 5V or the 4V cut-off setting? I've also been seeing conflicting info on connecting to the coil - positive or negative closest to the engine? I was planning on just keeping the polarity the same as however it is now?
Thanks!

View attachment 95533
Click to expand...
That same kill switch caused me so much grief, please save yourself the time, frustration, and what little money it costs to spend towards something better.
 
Thanks everyone, just trying to scrape by to get this thing going so I can drive it a bit before winter.
 
I have 4 of the kill switches installed with zero issues either. The only problem is the frame-rate setting on my transmitter for 5T. The kill switch did not like the lower settings , I upped the rate and works perfect. Not the switches' fault but operator error.
 
smokinwheel said:
I have 4 of the kill switches installed with zero issues either. The only problem is the frame-rate setting on my transmitter for 5T. The kill switch did not like the lower settings , I upped the rate and works perfect. Not the switches' fault but operator error.
Click to expand...
My buddy just asked me today what one I use because he hates his. I asked what it was, he said killer bee.
 
MOD switch in 5t 2.0. 4 years old 0 issues. To pricy for some but we'll worth it for me..Can't use traction control or abs per Matt but never use that any time. Use dx5 radio and non avc receiver with lipo.Still running factory servos.
 
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