MT Breaking

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E

e-man

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I am getting pretty tired of this thing eating CVDs.


When it was brand new I drove it around a school yard for about 40 minutes and nothing broke. Since then I get about 3 - 5 minutes and then I am stuck waiting a week for $100 worth of parts to arrive.


The throttle servo ate it today while nursing it back to the truck with one pin having fallen out of the shaft for the front wheels and another broken CVD on the back wheels.


I think the tires are just too big and too heavy for those wimply little CVDs.


Are the rest of you guys actually playing with your MTs or are you just working on them constantly and driving them back and forth down the street? My father in law has a TT and his so far has never made it more than about 10 minutes either without something breaking.
 
Are you breaking the CVD itself, or just the pin? Those can be replaced with stronger dowel pins from your local hardware store. Were you running the stock servo? The factory servos, as with every other RTR, are crap. You're better off replacing them with decent aftermarket servos.
 
i run mcd pins and dogbones, very strong... haven't broke one with my obr 35cc motor. also get some good hitec servo's. just upgrade as things break, then it's all good. i can run tanks thru my upgraded v1tt without breaking, and it rips. (mt tires are very heavy tho)


i run excavators on my all aluminum truck, was a mt. i also have modded/sleeved diff cups, my driveline does not break.


35ccttpics010.webp


you can see the beefy mcd dogbones on the tt and the welded on sleeves on the diff cups.
 
E if the pins are falling out. Use heavy duty O-Rings Put them on the cups. over the pins. Like this !! Works wonders have not lost another pin yet!


pics107.webp


O and one more thing did u adjust the shocks ?? Tighten them up for more clearance or to sit higher ???


If u tightened them too much it will cause shaft probs
 
I bought 2 more sets of CVDs hoping that a loose pin or something was the culprit. The pins are usually staying in tact. There is a set screw inside of the CVD that holds those pins in place. I am thinking about grinding a small flat spot on the next Pins to better hold them in place. I also Loc-tited them.


I am breaking these like crazy. I have two more broken ones in the truck while I wait on some more. None of the new ones have broken yet. They are a different color of metal and hopefully not as fragile.


cvds.webp
 
Green HD Air conditioner O-rings get the from Napa or Auto parts store Any Oring is fine just get the right size! Needs to be tight when put on

TheNewbe said:
Hey Trigger, what kind of O rings are you using?
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Damn mine shold be all to pieces but i keep breaking the Diff cup Shaft Inside the rear Diff ! Where the pin goes through. Broke 3 now Jumping a MT 20+ fters :D
 
Darn this thing. Got new CVDs today. MT lasted about 3 minutes of back and forth down the street. Went up a curb and something inside the rear diff let loose. Haven't taken it apart yet.


Oh well - Couple hours taking it apart, followed by at least a week long wait, another $100 (at least), and couple hours putting it back together.


Maybe I'll get another 5 minutes out of it after that.
 
e-man said:
Darn this thing. Got new CVDs today. MT lasted about 3 minutes of back and forth down the street. Went up a curb and something inside the rear diff let loose. Haven't taken it apart yet.
Oh well - Couple hours taking it apart, followed by at least a week long wait, another $100 (at least), and couple hours putting it back together.


Maybe I'll get another 5 minutes out of it after that.
Click to expand...
e-man,


Did you take it apart when you first bought the truck? Any time I have bought an RTR, I always tear them down, at the very least the gearboxes. I tore my HPI Baja down when I first purchased it, my Rampage MT, and my Rampage XB. By doing that, you can usually find something loose or something that needs to be tightened. After you check the rear gearbox, do the front.
 
well i was going through dog bone pins literally every 5 minutes...bought some from mcmaster and then started going through cvds like every 5 minutes...i think with the 8000 rpm clutch and the DDM pipe i put on....its just to much for the cheap parts on the truck.....i have beat the livin sheot out of my baja 5sc without an issue....EVER.. just sold my rampage MT yesterday....and took a beating on it cuz it was only about 4 weeks old...oh well live an learn..


i don't mind wrenching...its part of the experience...but with the amount of money i spent to make it a good truck...all three servos,bearing,pipe...etc i could have bought another baja and just drove the crap out of it.


i did keep all the servo's and bearings...but the pipe went with the truck. these trucks look great and beefy with all the bells and whistles...but, in the long run i've found that it is just a cheap piece of crap that i wouldnt recomend to anyone...and before all you diehards start bashing me...i've been running r/c's for 20 plus years...so i know all the trick and trades on working on them...had them all. i'am glad to see this one go...
 
I must have got a totally different truck than yall, so far only problems have been: losing pins and broke front a-arm. I don't believe in taking it easy on it so I bash it hard.
 
I've never broken an arm on my v1, or a dogbone or lost a pin. I green loctited my pins on my dogbones.


If you love your Baja more, stick with what makes you happy. I like my Baja and I love my 4wd vehicles just a bit more.
 
ya i heard alot of good on these trucks and alot of bad...so i thought what the hell i'll give it a shot...sad thing is i never got to really bash the truck...it would literally break as soon as it hit the ground...lol..i beat the snot out of my 5sc though with no problems... i loctited everything went over the whole about 15 times but, no matter what i did..it just kept breaking pins and cvd's an this truck was the version 4...soooo, idk...just to much to keep it going and not enough play time to justify keeping it...if i was bashing and breaking that one thing...but that was not the case...
 
easyrider said:
ya i heard alot of good on these trucks and alot of bad...so i thought what the hell i'll give it a shot...sad thing is i never got to really bash the truck...it would literally break as soon as it hit the ground...lol..i beat the snot out of my 5sc though with no problems... i loctited everything went over the whole about 15 times but, no matter what i did..it just kept breaking pins and cvd's an this truck was the version 4...soooo, idk...just to much to keep it going and not enough play time to justify keeping it...if i was bashing and breaking that one thing...but that was not the case...
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At least you gave it a shot. I've had rc's over the past 20 years where I would get one that everyone else said was good and ended up not being my cup of tea at all (Duratrax DX450 motorcycle being one of them).
 
I have speant well over $50,000 on RC cars and this thing is by far the most problematic. It is too big and too heavy for the way it is engineered. I have the 30.5CC engine with DDM pipe. I still have it running really rich because the engine isn't broken in yet. Generally stuff breaks when hitting the ground after launching off of something. Losing pins is irritating too - there is a set screw on all of them, but RTR those set screws were apparently all too lose or missing completely.


I have a Traxxas Summit 1/16th that is by far the best damned RC car I have ever owned. Sure stuff breaks, but I drive it full throttle at 50mph straight into the curb. It can do that 100 times per broken part.


I drive the MT into a curb and as soon as it lands something breaks. I don't want to be ginger with the thing.
 
When I drive my real car and hit something it does a ton of damage. When I run my 1/5 scale and hit something, the damage is very minimal. It must be the way my real car is engineered, too problematic for me to hit curbs and other objects.
 
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