My engine Issiue

[Gus]

about the ring. I did put in a new ring. but it had been lying around in my friends toolcase for a while and it may not be in good shape. it wasn't very hard to put on the piston. but the it was quite hard to get the cylinder on. the topgasket is new.

btw the motor have very good compression. don't that mean that the ring is fine?

/ Gus

 

[Bigger the Better]

Hey just for sheets and giggles and while your waiting for your ring. Heres a couple of pictures on the carb gasket deal I was talking about. You can see the two holes in the gasket that are off set and depending on which way around you install it the holes end up on different sides of the card. May be a problem on the fuel intake for the carb but, I'm not sure if switched you would get too much or no fuel? Oh well, just trying to give you some ideas.

 

[Gus]

actually it doesn't matter how you install it since the holes in the intake mount is wided to fitt in anyway?
atleast I can blow air through

/Gus

 

[Timmahh]

try this Gus.

Pull the cylinder off and carefully remove the ring. now insert the ring into the cylinder by itself so its sitting even in the cylinder, now measure the gap in the ring at the ends. if the gap is .020 of in inch or over, its worn out. a new ring end gap when in the cylinder like this should measure about .004 or .005 thousands of an in in gap area.

if the gap is anywhere between .004 and .020 i d say its good.
a few questions for you i didnt see info to answer yet.

1. what exact 29cc top end is it that you have installed? the CY 29RC, or the GP290 topend? or is it the older CY?
2. what Stroke crank is installed, a 28,29, or 30mm Crank?
3. if a 29mm or 30mm crank what gaskets are you using under the cylinder?
4. how is the coil gap? it should be around .015 thousands?
5. are you sure your fuel lines arnt pinched? and the Vent Cap inst plugged causing a vacuum lock in the gas tank? and is allowing fuel to flow?
6. you sure all the gaskets are sealing good, carb to intake manifold, manifold to cylinder, cylinder to case. case gasket isnt leaking?

if the ring is new and the cylinder is in good condition, then you should have fine compression as you say you do. if all gaskets are in good shape and you don't have an air leak, then that leaves fuel and spark. if you putting a tad bit of fuel into the plug hole and don't get it to atleast Pop after putting it back together, then you have a spark issue or other electronic issue.

the fact the motor ran on the bench, but not in the car leads me to believe its fuel delivery.

 

[Gus]

try this Gus.

Pull the cylinder off and carefully remove the ring. now insert the ring into the cylinder by itself so its sitting even in the cylinder, now measure the gap in the ring at the ends. if the gap is .020 of in inch or over, its worn out. a new ring end gap when in the cylinder like this should measure about .004 or .005 thousands of an in in gap area.

if the gap is anywhere between .004 and .020 i d say its good.
a few questions for you i didnt see info to answer yet.

1. what exact 29cc top end is it that you have installed? the CY 29RC, or the GP290 topend? or is it the older CY?
2. what Stroke crank is installed, a 28,29, or 30mm Crank?
3. if a 29mm or 30mm crank what gaskets are you using under the cylinder?
4. how is the coil gap? it should be around .015 thousands?
5. are you sure your fuel lines arnt pinched? and the Vent Cap inst plugged causing a vacuum lock in the gas tank? and is allowing fuel to flow?
6. you sure all the gaskets are sealing good, carb to intake manifold, manifold to cylinder, cylinder to case. case gasket isnt leaking?

if the ring is new and the cylinder is in good condition, then you should have fine compression as you say you do. if all gaskets are in good shape and you don't have an air leak, then that leaves fuel and spark. if you putting a tad bit of fuel into the plug hole and don't get it to atleast Pop after putting it back together, then you have a spark issue or other electronic issue.

the fact the motor ran on the bench, but not in the car leads me to believe its fuel delivery.

i don't own a set of calipers or what ever they are called so i cant really measure the gap.

the fuel runs fine in my mates truck :no:
and there is pop's and sometimes runs for brief moments when i put startgass in or when i remove all the gass i can from the motor. then try starting it again without gass or choke. thats actually when its been fireing the most and longest.

but the fuelline you say, there shouldnt be a vacum in the tank?
when i push the primer there builds up a vacumor pressure in the tank. so that when i unscrew the cap its like opening a beer, only not as tasty

that shouldnt be there??

 

[Bigger the Better]

Just in case - The only time you press the primer bulb is to get fuel into the bulb and maybe once more but, once fuel is there too many times more will flood the motor. Pressure is not wanted or needed in the tank but will build up when bashing around.

 

[Gus]

ok sodd this, I just gave up on this motor, something is obviously wrong with it!

I went and bought a ps3 instead




Ps. why the ps3? well.. I have to do something while I wait for the motor package I just ordered from oneill's

boy if my wife gets to know that I spent More cash om rc she will porbably kill me

also now, upgrading the brakes is put way back in the schedule

baaaaad me!

 

[Bigger the Better]

:lol: I love it. Now thats the way to solve a problem :w00t:

 

[Gus]

hehe, just hope Oneill's cab ship it to sweden faaast

wonder if brakes is a must though. I bet there's more punch with this setup, I run in the dirt though. no asphalt.

for now I'm playing Motorstorm on ps3 and pretending that the my Fg in there

 

[Bigger the Better]

That's great! Post a photo of your new set up when you get it.
Brakes? You may get away with it for a while but Ya, as soon as you get a pipe on it definitely.
Hook up a drill and socket to the old one's rotor bolt and spin it till it starts that'll show it to tick you off and what its going to be like to get replaced.

Hey crash as much as you can on the ps3 to get it out of your system.

 

[Gus]

the new setup will be;

30,5cc raceported motor with stuffed crank
silenced jet pro beetle pipe
and a k and n something cone filter.

think that will be any good?
I have no idea how much hp it will be. altho I expect lots if lowend power

 

[Timmahh]

id shy away from the K&N, or put an outwears over it or you may be doing more to that new motor faster than you care to.

 

[Gus]

think I'm better of with the stock filter?
its not like its been used very much

 

[Timmahh]

yea only becuz K&N here in the states is NOT known for being a Quality filter for off road R/Cs. unless you want to trash your motor cuz you got money to burn!

 

[Bigger the Better]

think I'm better of with the stock filter?
its not like its been used very much

Stick with the stock and get a Redneck to go over it and you will be set for a long time.:cool2:
Here are some photos of before, after, removed and washed.

 

[Gus]

cool, where can i get a redneck then?


never mind, just ordered a redneck from TNG

 

[Gus]

Ok, so now i await a new engine, a new pipe ( actually went for the normaljet pro insted of the silenced one ) from oneill's early next week. and then a Dual Stage Pre-Filter from TGN also to come next week i hope.

im allrdy getting worried about break in. don't wanna blow another engine

 

[Timmahh]

heh, heard that!! If your getting a FULL Motor it should be free of air leaks. set the needles at 1.5 on L and 1.75 on H with the JP installed, this should put you to the Fairly Rich side for needle settings and dial it in from there.

 

[Bigger the Better]

im allrdy getting worried about break in. don't wanna blow another engine

http://www.oneillbrothersracing.com/tech/index.htm - it will come with your motor.

Just make sure its warmed up.

Here is another form DDM:
How should I break-in my Zenoah or Chung Yang RC-style engine?
Zenoah RC-style engines and clones are tuned for high performance and need to be well taken care of. Breaking-in an engine is a process of alternately heating and cooling the engine to allow all parts to properly seat themselves, and allowing 2-stroke oil from the incoming fuel to coat the interior of the engine. DDM recommends the following break-in procedure:
Use 91 octane or higher fuel, mixed 25:1 with a quality non-synthetic 2-stroke oil. (You can use synthetic oil for break-in also. Just run slightly more fuel through the engine. ) Run the engine at varying speeds for periods of 3 to 10 minutes at a time. During this break-in time, NEVER go full throttle. Always let the engine idle for 30 seconds before turning it off. Allow the engine to cool off for 10 minutes before starting it again. Repeat this process 3 or 4 times - 3 or 4 full "heat cycles".
After the break-in period, switch to a high-quality synthetic 2-stroke oil, mixed at 25:1. Be sure to let the engine idle for 30 seconds to cool before stopping. Be sure to follow the maintenance schedule included in your engine owners manual.

 

[Gus]

thanx guys.
ive read a bit of Earthsurfers advice and he really seems to know hes stuff.
but the breakin from Oneill's is what ill use, since thats what they reccomend for their engine. prolly would have done it more like the DDM way if i could have affordet one of their engines with pipe.

lets see what happens after this weekend, ill get back to you with pictures (this time from a real camera ) and more feedback on how it went