My First E-Dune Runner

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There may be some tweaks to the tootsie roll concept. That's just the way these things go. I'm going to try and mount the right side (behind the servo tower) battery first. That one is too tight for the tootsie roll so it'll be back to the previous idea. I hope to get that one done today.
 
Once you have one it opens up all sorts of doors. I wouldn't have even considered 1/5 scale if I didn't have one. If you're ever in the market for one and want to chat about it, let me know and I'll call you.

So I milled 1/2" grooves through out the chassis where the batteries will sit. Next I need to bolt down some rod that'll hold the rubber sheet down on the bottom of the chassis.
 
When I sat there considering my options the best one was to cut a large piece of aluminum plate to cover the hole bottom of the chassis. Then I figured, heck I'll just put the car in the vice and save my self a ton of time. I actually had to dismantle the jaws to get it in the vice but I'm glad it fit.

Here's what the chassis looks like. Leaning up against the side is the delrin piece that mates to the grooves in the chassis. The delrin will be glued or someway attached to the bottom of the battery.

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mulepic said:
Once you have one it opens up all sorts of doors. I wouldn't have even considered 1/5 scale if I didn't have one. If you're ever in the market for one and want to chat about it, let me know and I'll call you. So I milled 1/2" grooves through out the chassis where the batteries will sit. Next I need to bolt down some rod that'll hold the rubber sheet down on the bottom of the chassis.
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Sweet! Thanks for the offer!
 
The delrin pieces have been glued to the battery packs and I have one battery mounted. I was hoping to get more coverage of the battery by the rubber but curves in the tube make it difficult to work with. I might have to source some flat rubber that is similar to the inner tube.

On the left is the mounted battery and on the right is showing the delrin glued to the pack.

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I haven't updated this in the past couple of days b/c I've been working hard to get it all done. I'm hoping to make it to Fear Farm on Saturday. There's still quite a bit to do.

1. I'm waiting on my 6mm bullet connectors. I know 6mm sounds small but it's bigger than what I normally use and it's the size that came on the motor.

2. I'm just about done making the mount for the receiver battery

3. I've switched out the inner tube rubber for construction tub liner. I did a test fit and it works well. I need to remake it out of a larger piece

4. I had to create a riser for the front roll cage mount to clear the batteries.

5. I need to finish the other half of the rear shock tower brace

6. solder up the esc, etc

Once this all done I'll need to do a local test run so I don't drive across town to only break in the first 2 mins.

I'm also debating opening up the front/rear diffs to see what grease is in there.

So Saturday is a bit of challenge but I'm hopeful.
 
The diffs are full of black goo. I would recomend cleaning them out and refilling will diff fluid.
 
RCDAD said:
The diffs are full of black goo. I would recomend cleaning them out and refilling will diff fluid.
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Bummer, I was hoping that wasn't the case. I'll add that to the list. Unless you think it'll be fine for one outing
 
Today I've read the whole post and what a build you have. I'm hoping your DR is what you want it to be. The battery packs are huge and the rig looks great, can't wait to see an all out video. The mill you have I saw at my local harbor freight store, I told my wife it would come in handy and got the hell no look LOL. Need to build a 2 car garage,one side for wood shop and the other for my MT :) . Otherwise go kick some dirt at the track.
 
Thanks, it has been a fun build. I probably need to slow it down a bit and enjoy it more. I"m sure once I get it on the track there'll be all sorts of other things that'll need to be modified.

The batteries are probably bigger than I needed but for the price they were the best value. The main reason they are so big is to support the current draw. 8A x 30C = 240A. The motor is rated at 100A and the ESC is 120A. So the current rating sort of flows downhill: Battery->ESC->Motor so I didn't want any component to starve the one it's feeding. Hard to explain, I hope that worked. My primary goal is to keep the current as low as possible i.e 10k rpm clutch and mechanical brake.
 
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