My First E-Dune Runner

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Thanks RCDad, I think that video is great. I really like how the car sounds; it sounds angry. The car was really easy to drive. I've been thinking all day how I can charge the batteries faster. I've looked at military DC generators, AC power supplies, and now I'm back to using car batteries.
 
RCDAD said:
Just a high amperage charger and leave the car running while charging.
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It's definitely an option. Ideally I'd run 24 or 36v so the current draw wouldn't be so high. My wife's car has two batteries, I'm going to pick up the charger then use her car as the guinea pig ;) That'll help decide which direction to go.

The other thing I need to figure out is cooling the motor. I might try some large fans from like a power supply or the castle heat sink/fan set up they have. I can put some screening (like screen door stuff) above the fans to protect them. This could also extend over the clutch bell to hopefully prevent what happened on that second run.
 
I wanted to gear it as low as I could w/o regard to how fast it would be compared to the losi's b/c I was concerned about temps. But in the end, it's not that much slower for that particular track. And I did manage to catch one of them.....but I know nothing about that driver, etc.

This morning I discovered I do not need to spend $300 on a high power charger. I read the e-bike forums and I can bulk charge the packs. You simply hook the packs up to the power supply directly. Apparently when you fast charge w/ a hyperion and other chargers this is what they are doing essentially. It was very good info to find and saves me a big purchase.

With that in mind, I need to find another Meanwell 24v/20a power supply. I already have one that I use w/ my hyperion so I only need 1 more to hook in series with. I'll run 48V/20A and the packs should charge in under 30mins. I also have a handful of 2s5A packs from my 1/10 SC that I'm not using anymore. I'm going to re-assemble them as 12s and make a second pack to take to the track. This pack w/ my current pack should give me 30mins of runtime. Add a charge cycle in the mix and I'll get 60 mins of runtime w/ 45mins of down time charging. I'm almost positive no one ran for 60 mins on Saturday night so that should be more than enough.

I've not made any progress on the motor fan idea except that the CC 20 series blower looks promising. But then I found a redcat fan that looks big but I cannot find the dimensions for it. I'm thinking of making some tall heat sink fins that'll stick up into the wind and mound the fan(s) in between them.
 
I've not made any progress on the motor fan idea except that the CC 20 series blower looks promising. But then I found a redcat fan that looks big but I cannot find the dimensions for it. I'm thinking of making some tall heat sink fins that'll stick up into the wind and mound the fan(s) in between them.
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That should pretty good. What Redcat fan? Don't think any of thm are that big. The one that comes on the XBE esc is probably the largest they carry.
 
I finally got around to cleaning the e-DR. I ended up removing all the electronics and hosing it down. It was the only way to get all the dirt/mud off of it. I then sprayed it down w/ WD40 and wiped it off. It looks like new w/ one exception......the tranny didn't fair too well.

When I took the gear cover off the gears were a little wobbly. I took the gears off and noticed that the aluminum hub for the clutchbell gear was seized on there and the pin holding it to the shaft was halfway out. That pin broke in two and wedged itself in there. I had to pry the aluminum hub off. The next gear to it had the same issue but the pin didn't break. But it definitely looks too short. Regardless of this, the gears just don't mesh very well if I tighten down the nuts holding them on the shaft. They need to be a little loose to spin freely but then they still wobble and have tight mesh points throughout the rotation.

Are these gears, shaft pins, aluminum hubs, and gears a known DR issue? Any advice is appreciated.
 
Hi,

I got here via the hpibajaforum e-conversion section. I'm also thinking about having a clutch for my e-baja.

I have really enjoyed reading through your build thread so far.
 
kimsbored said:
Hi,I got here via the hpibajaforum e-conversion section. I'm also thinking about having a clutch for my e-baja.

I have really enjoyed reading through your build thread so far.
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Thanks, I really think the combination of the clutch, mechanical brake, and high voltage really make e-1/5 possible. If you visit the e-bike forums those guys are running heavier equipment, longer distances, and similar speeds. They've been at it for a while. Go to the DYI e-vehicle forums and those guys are insane!
 
The DR & MT share this setup. The pins have issues falling out and the o rings will dry out crack and disapear. I always used locktite on the pins for added insurance. They tend not to mesh perfectly sometimes, but seem to last.
 
RCDAD said:
The DR & MT share this setup. The pins have issues falling out and the o rings will dry out crack and disapear. I always used locktite on the pins for added insurance. They tend not to mesh perfectly sometimes, but seem to last.
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Thanks, I'll make some more pins and give it a go. Maybe I can get some shims in there to reduce the wobble.
 
I don't know I agree you "need" a clutch or a brake to run 1/5th ep. A nice esc will do the same thing with some help of a adjustments with a computer link. Brakes should increase run times on your main batts compared to using the esc/motor so that is a nice plus. There are already esc that have regenerative breaking via the motor although they are for industrial robots. A brake and a clutch is a smart mechanical way to solving electrical problems suffered from inexpenisives escs, but it's not the only option to 1/5 ep.
 
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DUFFY said:
I don't know I agree you "need" a clutch or a brake to run 1/5th ep. A nice esc will do the same thing with some help of a adjustments with a computer link. Brakes should increase run times on your main batts compared to using the esc/motor so that is a nice plus. There are already esc that have regenerative breaking via the motor although they are for industrial robots. A brake and a clutch is a smart mechanical way to solving electrical problems suffered from inexpenisives escs, but it's not the only option to 1/5 ep.
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You are right, given unlimited funds, a ni$e esc may work well. But I've read plenty how the ni$e esc still gets sent back over seas while the customer takes a ni$e long break waiting for the repair. I'd also be surprised if the typical DR owner is interested in spending just as much (if not more) on an esc as they are for the whole car. But I do agree w/ you, my way is not the only way.

I will say though, I think there is a misunderstanding about 1/5. You cannot simply double the size of 1/8 scale electronics and target the 1/5 market. The weight and friction present more than 2x the power needed to move it. The gearing (the DR particularly) on 1/5 is targeted for a motor who's maximum power is made at higher RPM's. The electric motor is very different than gas.

I agree there are other ways to skin the cat, I just don't think the current 'accepted' way is the best and many are giving up on it w/ frustration of sending their esc and motors back to the manufacturer. Taking some ideas from the e-bikes seems to serve well. But only time will tell.
 
mulepic said:
I finally got around to cleaning the e-DR. I ended up removing all the electronics and hosing it down. It was the only way to get all the dirt/mud off of it. I then sprayed it down w/ WD40 and wiped it off. It looks like new w/ one exception......the tranny didn't fair too well.When I took the gear cover off the gears were a little wobbly. I took the gears off and noticed that the aluminum hub for the clutchbell gear was seized on there and the pin holding it to the shaft was halfway out. That pin broke in two and wedged itself in there. I had to pry the aluminum hub off. The next gear to it had the same issue but the pin didn't break. But it definitely looks too short. Regardless of this, the gears just don't mesh very well if I tighten down the nuts holding them on the shaft. They need to be a little loose to spin freely but then they still wobble and have tight mesh points throughout the rotation.

Are these gears, shaft pins, aluminum hubs, and gears a known DR issue? Any advice is appreciated.
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Sometimes you can have issues with the alumin squares not sitting flush, but more often than not, there is a slight wobble in the 'D' shaft.

It seems to happen when the brake hub with shafts is not tightened up absolutely straight causing a tight mesh in an area of the C/D gears.

I went through great pains trying to fix this issue, added washers in between, I even had my truck stripped down to JUST chassis and gear plates to see what EXACTLY was happening.

RCDad selling 7075's gear plate with the extra bearing for the D should fix the issue holding the shaft more true.

Ultimately I put the issue to bed by going to the RCDad Belt Drive and never looked back. The "X" series doesn't seem to have this same issue.

Here's some old threads on the subject. Hope this helps you understand gear issue more.

http://www.redcatrampageforum.com/showthread.php?t=7151&highlight=wobble

http://www.redcatrampageforum.com/showthread.php?t=3705

http://www.redcatrampageforum.com/showthread.php?t=3902&highlight=shaft

http://www.redcatrampageforum.com/showthread.php?t=4204&highlight=shaft
 
mulepic said:
I finally got around to cleaning the e-DR. I ended up removing all the electronics and hosing it down. It was the only way to get all the dirt/mud off of it. I then sprayed it down w/ WD40 and wiped it off. It looks like new w/ one exception......the tranny didn't fair too well.When I took the gear cover off the gears were a little wobbly. I took the gears off and noticed that the aluminum hub for the clutchbell gear was seized on there and the pin holding it to the shaft was halfway out. That pin broke in two and wedged itself in there. I had to pry the aluminum hub off. The next gear to it had the same issue but the pin didn't break. But it definitely looks too short. Regardless of this, the gears just don't mesh very well if I tighten down the nuts holding them on the shaft. They need to be a little loose to spin freely but then they still wobble and have tight mesh points throughout the rotation.

Are these gears, shaft pins, aluminum hubs, and gears a known DR issue? Any advice is appreciated.
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Yep. Common with the 4 pin setup. That's why most guys go with the belt drive or the square drive setup.
 
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