My First E-Dune Runner

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The front bumper might need slight modificqtion. If you font try one of those out soon I am gonna get a new rear bumper and get a different front bumper theb the tiny stock one. I am running the modified rc rear bumper and one good tool I bent it and ripped the rear wing mount off so I want to try the uber rear bumper for sure as my logic is it will give more then the aluminum one. I got a fueled dune runner but same thing haha
 
Thanks rampagemt, I'll look into getting a bumper. I think that will go a long way to keep this thing together.

Meahwhile, I decided to fix my cvd. I found a bolt that I bored out to the diameter of the stub axle. Then I welded the bolt to the stub axle:

8202945054_69b6f9674c_z.jpg


I see that the other thread is talking about using dog bones, fuel tubing, etc to solve this. I'll start a new thread so we can get all the solutions to this problem in one place.
 
One other issue I ran into at the track yesterday is my brand new battery pack seems to have been faulty. One of the cells in the pack wouldn't quite charge as well as the others. And after running it that cell dropped to 0.0v. There's not much I can do and the warranty on lipos is pretty bad. Here's part of it from hobbyking: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/lipo_policy.html

"Please keep the following in mind before making a claim;

We check all battery pack voltages prior to shipping. It is a simple process and takes us 3 seconds per pack. Doing so assures us that the battery is fit for use, is within the voltage range and has no shorting.

This process does not remove slightly unbalanced packs.

1) You can only make a claim for 'Under voltage' the same day the parcel arrives and prior to the lipoly pack being charged or cycled. 'Under Voltage' means that 1 or more of the cells in you pack has a voltage lower than 3v per cell. After the battery has been cycled or used, no claim for 'under voltage' can be made."

I'm not too upset b/c I was actually of thinking of getting a extra 6s pack because I'm considering running 14s vs. 12s. I'm hoping the two extra cells get me to the >30min runtime. Right now I'm at 25-27mins. I'll break out the cells from my current damaged pack to get to 14s.
 
rampagemt said:
I used shoe goo on my cvd and it held pins in nice. I haven't experienced a cup breakage like that
Click to expand...
That's a neat idea. Did you just dab some on the outside of the cup over the pins? I would think there would be too much movement.
 
mulepic said:
One other issue I ran into at the track yesterday is my brand new battery pack seems to have been faulty. One of the cells in the pack wouldn't quite charge as well as the others. And after running it that cell dropped to 0.0v. There's not much I can do and the warranty on lipos is pretty bad. Here's part of it from hobbyking: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/lipo_policy.html"Please keep the following in mind before making a claim;

We check all battery pack voltages prior to shipping. It is a simple process and takes us 3 seconds per pack. Doing so assures us that the battery is fit for use, is within the voltage range and has no shorting.

This process does not remove slightly unbalanced packs.

1) You can only make a claim for 'Under voltage' the same day the parcel arrives and prior to the lipoly pack being charged or cycled. 'Under Voltage' means that 1 or more of the cells in you pack has a voltage lower than 3v per cell. After the battery has been cycled or used, no claim for 'under voltage' can be made."

I'm not too upset b/c I was actually of thinking of getting a extra 6s pack because I'm considering running 14s vs. 12s. I'm hoping the two extra cells get me to the >30min runtime. Right now I'm at 25-27mins. I'll break out the cells from my current damaged pack to get to 14s.
Click to expand...
That basically says they're usable but no expected lifespan warranty.
 
RCDAD said:
That's a neat idea. Did you just dab some on the outside of the cup over the pins? I would think there would be too much movement.
Click to expand...
On smaller cars I've done this. I put a very little on the pin, like a hair of it, then slide the pin in. I can't tell you how many different ways I've used shoe goo.
 
RCDAD said:
That basically says they're usable but no expected lifespan warranty.
Click to expand...
The other issue is the 5 other cells in the back get discharged by the esc too much to make up for the lost voltage. Luckily I was able to recover the other cells.

I just ordered a new pack, for anyone keeping track I'm up to 5.....I didn't say 'E' was cheap.
 
mulepic said:
I just ordered a new pack, for anyone keeping track I'm up to 5.....I didn't say 'E' was cheap.
Click to expand...
I hear that! Those aren't the standard packs either, your buying huge packs. :eek:
 
What about the MT aluminum roll cage, 050018B , can it be adapted to the DR some how?
 
As handy as you are you would probably be better off making one your self.

The MT cage is a couple inches shorter, but anything is possible.
 
RCDAD said:
That's a neat idea. Did you just dab some on the outside of the cup over the pins? I would think there would be too much movement.
Click to expand...
They can slide and push the shoe goi a little bit but it held up nicely once I used it. I didn't put them fully through there paces as I was looking for dogbones and axles as I think it is more bulletproof then cvds
 
I managed to mount the rpm bumper. It mounts to two holes in the front that the suspension pin holder sits in then I had to build a bridge to hold down the back of the bumper b/c the bumper is narrower than the DR gear box holes. I guess I should post a picture to help explain it.

The bumper seems a little soft but from what I've read that's the 'magic' of rpm plastic; it'll bend but not break. Which I think is good. I just wish they made a roll cage too.
 
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