My First E-Dune Runner

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I'd like to also reduce the weight. It would be nice to get 5lbs out of that thing. I'm pretty sure I out weighed most of the 5ives.
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Really? What does your DR weigh in at? The 5ives come in at about 40lbs.

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mulepic said:
Could be, or maybe it has to do w/ the idler being on the pull vs. push side of the belt. But keeping it cool is key. I see you have the square shaft clutch bell, do you have a square shaft for the brake shaft (I don't know what the official name of it is)? Does the square shafts use the same bearings as the round ones? That'll give me an idea the dimension of the square.
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Our kit uses a plastic idler pulley which keeps tension also.

Yes our kit uses the square drive clutch bell and lay shafts.

Yes the shaft dimensions are the same. Are you going to make some? The Redcat versions are too long for your gear plate. Not compatible. You would need the appropriate gear plate to use the Redcat shafts.
 
Interesting. Having a longer shaft could help support the pulley better. So would it just stick out further beyond the gear plate?
 
Not really... The gear plate used with those shafts have longer bearing holders as well. Because the shafts are stepped down in diameter, you have to use the other plate.
 
RCDAD said:
Not really... The gear plate used with those shafts have longer bearing holders as well. Because the shafts are stepped down in diameter, you have to use the other plate.
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Is it the 50004 gear plate, I see what you are saying.
 
Yes, that part. It is the upgrade for the plastic gear plate that came in the early versions.
 
Some pictures of the local guys trucks. The 5ives looked awesome, it's hard not to want one of those but they had just as many hurdles as the DR.

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I'll have to work on the improving the look of the DR for next years race:

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Here is what my belt looks like that melted the teeth off. A new one is next to it for comparison:

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I'm looking at metal dowel pins for the gear plate shafts. Currently they are 3mm but I've noticed 4mm are considerably stronger. From McMaster-Carr 3mm pins break at 1600lbs and 4mm at 2700lbs. The axle hex pins are all 4mm, all the dog bone pins are 4mm, the cv pins are 4mm, so I'm thinking about drilling out the clutch bell shaft and the brake shaft to 4mm. That way I can buy 50 of these pins and have spares for all over the car.

Maybe others have had better luck than me, but I've never had any luck drilling hardened steel. I avoid it b/c I've done nothing but break drill bits. But since I only need to drill 2 holes and it's just .030" over I might give it a go.

This way I'd be sure not to break a pulley pin....at least that's the theory.
 
RCDAD said:
I'd say that's worth a try. Are you using the pins to hold the belt pulleys?
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Yep. I'll drill a hole so the pin can only go in one way then I'll use a set screw to hold it in place.

You wouldn't happen to know if the pins in the diffs are also 4mm?
 
I practiced opening up the hole on the middle shaft. After about 30 mins I was able to fit the 4mm pin in. And all my bits are in tact. It's a tight fit but that's perfect. I just ordered up a box of 25 4mmx26mm alloy pins.

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I drilled the the clutch bell shaft and the brake shaft. Unfortunately the brake shaft hole went in at an angle. Did I mention I hate drilling hardened steel? It creates a problem b/c the hole in the pulley will be unnecessarily large to account for the angle. I'll give it a go but if the pulley wobbles too much then I'll have to get a new shaft and try again.

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All my 4mm pins should be showing up today and I ordered new bearings for pretty much the whole car. I'll just replace them as I tear it apart and save any that are still good as backups.
 
Bummer man. Well, if ya had to mess up, at least it was on the least expensive part. :rolleyes:
 
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