New 32cc Reed Case engine from China

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Seandonato73 said:
I just finished a light mod, on an oe husqy cylinder for an neojunk 843 this weekend. Had a heck of a time getting the intake to seal. Ended up pulling the cylinder and fount the intake flange wasn't machined flat. (Yes on the husqy/ zenoah cylinder!) Did some hand filing on it, got it to seal up. Runs pretty well for what it is. If I can grab a 4350 for a decent price I'd like to compare the two. It ran like total crap with the neojunk cylinder. I still think my gz4000 will smoke it in the wood. It's a little screamer.

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Surprised the oem unit was out of wack but they all make mistakes. Impossible not to in mass production. Not sure what you consider a good price but I got my gz4350 for $359 shipped from online retailer. I'll try to find it again. $349 actually.

https://www.rcpw.com/redmax-gz4350-43-1cc-chainsaw-w-16-bar-and-chain/
They are pretty weak until 8-10 tanks of fuel. The muffler mod and proper tuning really wakes them up.
 
jeepfreak1972 said:
Surprised the oem unit was out of wack but they all make mistakes. Impossible not to in mass production. Not sure what you consider a good price but I got my gz4350 for $359 shipped from online retailer. I'll try to find it again. $349 actually.

https://www.rcpw.com/redmax-gz4350-43-1cc-chainsaw-w-16-bar-and-chain/
They are pretty weak until 8-10 tanks of fuel. The muffler mod and proper tuning really wakes them up.
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Nice, that will be on order Friday. Thanks
 
smokinwheel said:
Would you consider Zenoa a clone or does this sit on top shelf with something like Taylor?
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"Raco started out in the mid 80's and was founded by Jon Rahe with a local silent partner. They operated out of Santa Ana, California. They took the hobby by storm with their introduction of the Jac-Rabbit. This was as awesome off-road buggy that was fast and affordable. Unfortunately, Raco is no longer in business, they closed their doors around 1997. Raco sold their rights to the original sidewinder with the straight axle to Danny's Quarter Scale in 1994."


"Zenoah Max Power 140 engine, 1.4 cu in (22.5 cc) 1.8 HP, fan cooled, solid state ignition, all position diaphragm carb and chrome cylinder, extremely reliable."


I got this information off 1/4 scale legends website.
Seandonato73 said:
Nice, that will be on order Friday. Thanks
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Certainly. A few guys on FHC snagged one after I posted that link.

I paid $420 shipped for the Husqvarna. Power head only. It came from the HL supply. My buddy ordered it for me because I'm not an ope member anymore and the sale was only for ope members.
 
I feel like we get off topic sometimes! Awesome build and great references. Would you run the flfm whatever 32cc reed case engine stock? Would you think it would survive with proper break in. Run it with dominantor/motul. 11hp? 5hp?
 
I would guess the engine would run just fine out of the box . The materials seem fine and the design if full of innovations .
Not convinced about the power claims , but bloody good for the price.
 
Baja-Rox said:
I guess there is no setting the coil air gap? I don't understand why you'd bolt it to the the fan shroud, silly design.
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I first saw this a while back. New to 1/5 scale this is a first.
I agree it seems silly.

You can't set air-gap.
Makes it very difficult to set timing.
Relying on a coil mount that is part of a bolt on piece ( fan cover) is just something else to loosen up.

But what do I know anyway.
 
smokinwheel said:
I first saw this a while back. New to 1/5 scale this is a first.
I agree it seems silly.

You can't set air-gap.
Makes it very difficult to set timing.
Relying on a coil mount that is part of a bolt on piece ( fan cover) is just something else to loosen up.

But what do I know anyway.
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I always set my air gap with a glossy business card. Line up the magnets so they pull the coil down, then tighten the bolts with some light lock tight. Been running like that for decades with 0 issues.
 
CobraGT2023 said:
I always set my air gap with a glossy business card. Line up the magnets so they pull the coil down, then tighten the bolts with some light lock tight. Been running like that for decades with 0 issues.
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Yeah that is pretty much the standard , I use brass shim stock but whatever you use and feel works.
The million dollar question here is how do you do this if the coil is mounted to the fan shroud? It is easy when the coil is screwed to the block but if it is in the cover you no longer have access to set it when it is hidden under the cover.

Very difficult to adjust timing like this as well. Maybe not imposable but certainly more involved.
 
smokinwheel said:
Yeah that is pretty much the standard , I use brass shim stock but whatever you use and feel works.
The million dollar question here is how do you do this if the coil is mounted to the fan shroud? It is easy when the coil is screwed to the block but if it is in the cover you no longer have access to set it when it is hidden under the cover.

Very difficult to adjust timing like this as well. Maybe not imposable but certainly more involved.
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I am not 100% familiar with those engines, but couldn't you use a small piece of a card, then spin the engine after to remove it? I wouldn't think a small piece of paper would cause any issues, just a thought.

***EDIT*** I dug up a picture and I see the issues. Would just need someway to initially mark the cover for correct placement. If it were me, id go for the smallest gap, you are limited by the screw holes anyways, so pull it all the way down when tightening? Free spin the engine to make sure it doesn't catch the flywheel? Maybe a spare flywheel to use since it will line up with the pull start? Fashion a cardboard flywheel template?
 
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