new engine

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Give it a few 10 minute runs blipping the trottle every few minutes then a few more at half throttle blipping to full revs - I've never had issues when I did it this way. Mine engines are now run in on the dyno so i ust throw them in the car and drive them. Just make sure you use a good oil such as 747 at 200ml to 5ltr.
 
I do the heat cycle method, Start engine warm it up, turn off let it cool, I do that twice to let engine bed in, then I use it but only upto 3/4 power until hot , let it cool refill with fuel then thrash the arse off it.
 
This question comes up so often on these forums and most of the time I find the responses funny / unusual.

Let me ask a few questions of my own first.

When you buy a new lawn mower, how do you run it in?
When you buy a new leaf blower or weedwacker, how do you run it in?
When you buy a new chain saw, how do you run it in?
What about a petrol generator or pressure cleaner..... how do you run them in?

The short answer is "you don't".

1:1 scale car engines in the past had a rough cross hatch / honed finish in the bore and they needed to be run in gently.

Some nitro engines use tapperd pistons / bores that require a gentle break in period also.

Our engines have an average surface finish in the bore that is chrome plated and the piston has only one ring on them.

When you start up a brand new engine you need to take it easy so it can get to normal operating temperature..... this applies to any engine new or old.

Providing your oil ratio is as per the manufacturers spec and your carb settings are correct you simply drive the wheels off the thing.

I try to avoid long wide open throttle periods for the first hour and avoid running out of fuel as starving the engine of fuel also starves the engine of lubrication.

All my engines are run in while I'm racing them on the track.

FYI, 4 of my engines finished in the top 3 podium positions over 4 classes at the recent Australian titles and they were broken in at the track.
 
+1
breaking in engines is a nasty residue left over from peoples nitro days, they come to gas and think you have to spend ages running engines in. forget everything to do with nitro

i've heard of people idling gassers for 1,2,and even 3 tanks...craziness...and those engines run in like that will not like you for it and will probably make less power than one that is just run from the get go.
 
allanach said:
This question comes up so often on these forums and most of the time I find the responses funny / unusual.

Let me ask a few questions of my own first.

When you buy a new lawn mower, how do you run it in?
When you buy a new leaf blower or weedwacker, how do you run it in?
When you buy a new chain saw, how do you run it in?
What about a petrol generator or pressure cleaner..... how do you run them in?

The short answer is "you don't".

1:1 scale car engines in the past had a rough cross hatch / honed finish in the bore and they needed to be run in gently.

Some nitro engines use tapperd pistons / bores that require a gentle break in period also.

Our engines have an average surface finish in the bore that is chrome plated and the piston has only one ring on them.

When you start up a brand new engine you need to take it easy so it can get to normal operating temperature..... this applies to any engine new or old.

Providing your oil ratio is as per the manufacturers spec and your carb settings are correct you simply drive the wheels off the thing.

I try to avoid long wide open throttle periods for the first hour and avoid running out of fuel as starving the engine of fuel also starves the engine of lubrication.

All my engines are run in while I'm racing them on the track.

FYI, 4 of my engines finished in the top 3 podium positions over 4 classes at the recent Australian titles and they were broken in at the track.
Click to expand...

I would still rather do it my way :D
 
I start mine up, give it a couple minutes to warm up, then I drive it at a max of half throttle for 5 minutes, next 5 minutes 3/4 throttle max, then I floor it for only a couple seconds the last 5 minutes of the first run, or heat cycle. Let it cool off at least 20 or 30 minutes, then start it up for the second run. Give it a couple minutes to warm up, and don't floor it for a couple minutes after that, then limit WOT to 5 seconds at first, working it up to 10 seconds of WOT max by the end of that 15 minute run. Next run, after warming it up, I increase it to 15 seconds max at WOT. I continue to heat cycle it like this for 2 tanks, then I quit heat cycling it, but I still limit it to 15 seconds of WOT at a time untill my break in gas/oil mix is gone.

The main factor is to be sure you DON"T run a synthetic oil for at least the first half gallon of fuel. I like to use the HPI break in oil, then I switch to a full synthetic oil after that.
 

that was the first run on a brand new engine.I run them flat out from the start.I still have that engine somewhere.


J
 
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